Balkans

Valbonë, Shqiperise (Albania) – Surrounded by Unbelievably Pristine Nature

14 September 2016

Pristine aquamarine

When I sailed past Albania in 1972, I was told the ship had to keep a clear birth of its coastline. “They will fire on us,” a Greek shipmate said. Cranky Albania was still isolated, Communist, and anti-social in 1972. I didn’t know Dictator Hoxha had built 750,000 bunkers to defend a country the size of Maryland – that’s a bunker every 40 acres, a bunker per family. All of that has changed, though the bunkers remain. With little fanfare, hardly a glance at my passport, and little more than five minutes and I am in Albania. And for the next 95 miles, I am introduced to what must be one of the most isolated, beautiful, and pristine areas in the world.  (more…)

By Pat, ago

Prizren, Kosova

12-13 September 2016

Dečani Monastery is a UNESCO treasure.

During my 2012 visit to the countries of the former Yugoslavia, the country I missed seeing was Kosova. Not only did Serbia frown on anyone entering the area, but they would not recognize a passport stamp issued by what Serbians thought as Serb territory. Not that things have changed in 2016; today I travel from Macedonia and no such tensions exist south of the border. And I say “Kosova” to the contrary of maps and notables because that is how locals refer to their country.  (more…)

By Pat, ago

Lake Ohrid, Macedonia

9-11 September 2016

Lake Ohrid is one of Europe’s deepest and oldest lakes.

Driving through beautiful countryside, I arrive at the spectacular shores of Lake Ohrid. Lake Ohrid is one of Europe’s oldest lakes, preserving an aquatic ecosystem of more than 200 endemic species. Along its eastern shore is Ohrid, a lively resort with wonderful shopping bazaars and cafes. Ohrid is a perfect spot for visiting local sites of interest.  (more…)

By Pat, ago

Skopje Macedonia – In Search of Alexander the Great 

7-8 September 2016 – Macedonian Liberation Day

Alexander the Great, claimed by Macedonia, born in Greece

If judged by my entry into Skopje, bumper to bumper jams where there appears to exist no driving rules but one, “don’t hit anyone,” then I would describe Skopje as insane. Inching through bazaar and market with half an inch to spare, I would have thought Skopje was not for me. However, that was before I saw the pedestrian areas of the city center.  (more…)

By Pat, ago

Plovdiv, Bulgaria

6 September 2016 – Unification Day

Plovdiv’s unique architecture of Bulgarian Revival Period.

Plovdiv’s unique architecture of Bulgarian Revival Period.

Bulgarian Unification Day commemorates the unification of Eastern Rumelia (Southern Bulgaria) and Bulgaria in 1885. Bulgaria was never pleased with the terms of the 1878 Treaty of Berlin, when they lost parts of southern Bulgaria to the Ottoman Empire. Bulgarians gave up hopes for Macedonia and the rest of Thrace and concentrated on regaining East Roumelia. In 1885, a group of former revolutionaries organized in Plovdiv (the capital of Eastern Roumelia) and on 6 September the palace in Plovdiv was surrounded. Prince Alexander prepared for war with the Ottoman Empire and agreed to become the leader of a Unified Bulgaria. Bulgaria successfully defended its interests on the battlefield in the Serbo-Bulgarian War. Thus, today we celebrate Unification Day.    (more…)

By Pat, ago

Rila Monastery – Bulgaria

5 September 2016

An “A HA” moment at Rila Monastery.

After countless churches, scores of monuments, a plethora of museums and sites, it becomes harder and harder to feel an “A HA!” moment.

Zipping south on a relatively new highway, I am driven into the Rila Mountains and its largest tourist draw, the 10th century Rila Monastery, one of Bulgaria’s most important historical and architectural monuments and a UNESCO site. Stepping into its courtyard beneath towering cloud-draped mountains, the Rila Monastery provides one of those “A HAs!” I am surrounded by the lofty green peaks of the highest mountain range of Bulgaria and the Balkans. Clear rushing streams and drifting low clouds provide a perfect backdrop for revitalization and contemplation.  (more…)

By Pat, ago

Sofia Bulgaria – Part Two

1-5 September 2016 

Memorabilia and shopping treasures around the streets of Sofia.

Memorabilia and shopping treasures around the streets of Sofia.

Sofia is a city of monuments and statues commemorating religious, political and literary figures. Sprinkled among these are the gems of communist pride and propaganda. All are worth a moment to appreciate what is being expressed.  (more…)

By Pat, ago