30 June-10 July 2023
“May the Mongol nation exist by its own right.”
This idea is expressed in the Mongolian national symbol of the Soyombo. It is attributed to Zanabazar, the 17th century leader of Mongolian Lamaism, a great statesman, and the father of Mongolian art and script. There are various interpretations of the Soyombo and the symbol is prominently displayed on the Mongolian national flag.
I knew little if this country upon arrival, but am learning the true meaning of Soyombo as I travel Mongolia.
Ulaanbaatar is home base for our excursions. Our hotel overlooks Sükhbaatar Square, the city’s central plaza. Ulaanbaatar, fondly called UB, is modern, clean and friendly. It is not unusual to see businessmen and skate boarding youth sharing space with a nomad who has come to the city. No camels seen but skate boarders are everywhere as are the craziest traffic jams in the world.
Mongolia encompasses a history spanning several millennia, and awesome nature within its vast, untouched landscapes. The more I see and experience, the more I grasp Soyombo.
Gandantegchinlen Monastery
Gandantegchinlen Monastery or “Great Place of Complete Joy,” is the center of Mongolian Buddhism located in Ulaanbaatar. While constructed in 1809, little remains of the original temple – just one prized pillar. Rebuilt in 1838, it became the home of the 13th Dalai Lama in 1904. Sadly, as was his manner, Stalin ordered the monasteries destroyed and more than 15,000 lamas were murdered. Escaping destruction, the monastery closed until 1944 and has since been restored since the Soviet demise in 1990. The honored statue of Avalokiteśvara was rebuilt in 1996, funded by donations by the Mongolian people. It features 2,286 precious stones and is gilded with gold leaf and rates the tallest indoor statue in the world standing at 87 ft.
Gandantegchinlen Monastery or “Great Place of Complete Joy,” is the center of Mongolian Buddhism located in Ulaanbaatar. While constructed in 1809, little remains of the original temple – just one prized pillar. Rebuilt in 1838, it became the home of the 13th Dalai Lama in 1904. Sadly, as was his manner, Stalin ordered the monasteries destroyed and more than 15,000 lamas were murdered. Escaping destruction, the monastery closed until 1944 and has since been restored since the Soviet demise in 1990.
The honored statue of Avalokiteśvara was rebuilt in 1996, funded by donations by the Mongolian people. It features 2,286 precious stones and is gilded with gold leaf and rates the tallest indoor statue in the world standing at 87 ft.
Erdene Zuu Monastery
The Erdene Zuu Monastery is probably the oldest surviving monastery in Mongolia. The monastery is near the ancient Mongol capital of Karakorum in the Orkhon Valley, recognized as a Cultural Landscape World Heritage Site. Built in 1585 by the ruling Khan and grandfather of Zanabazar (more on him later but a very important figure in Naadam festivities), building stones were taken from the ruins of Karakorum. The Chinese-style roof is of green tile and surrounded by 108 stupas. Oddly, the local communist leader ordered the monastery destroyed and it was Stalin who pressured him to leave it alone. According to folklore, in 1745, a Buddhist named Bunia made some unsuccessful attempts to fly with a device he invented which was similar to a parachute. The museum contains many archeological artifacts.
Hustain Nuruu (Pike Hustai) National Reserve
The Hustain Nuruu (Pike Hustai) National Reserve was established in 1993 as a way to re-introduce the Przewalski wild horse back into Mongolia. First described scientifically in the late 19th century by Russian explorer Nikolai Michailovich Przewalski, for whom the horse is named, the horse once freely roamed the steppes along the Mongolia-China border.
With a short, muscular body, Przewalski horses are smaller than most domesticated horses. They have a pale belly and beige to reddish-brown coat, white muzzle and distinctive erect and dark mane that lines their head and neck. The Prezewalski is the last surviving subspecies of wild horse in the world. I visited the Preshevalsky Museum in Karakil, Kyrgystan, dedicated to the memory of this enthusiastic explorer who is accredited for his excellent works on flora and fauna. He was known for breeding a small horse on the steppes of Tibet, which became known as the Preshevalsky Horse. It was astonishing the distance this explorer hiked and explored across Eurasia.
Unfortunately, heavy rains have caused dangerous flooding and roads are impassable. Rather than risking getting g stranded or worse, we drove back to UB. without spotting a Preshevalsky who were wisely trying to stay dry.
When a Mongol driver worries about the roads, you know it is serious!
Chinggis Khaan
The honored statue of Avalokiteśvara was rebuilt in 1996, funded by donations by the Mongolian people. It features 2,286 precious stones and is gilded with gold leaf and rates the tallest indoor statue in the world standing at 87 ft.
Gorkhi-Terelj National Park
Gorkhi-Terelj National Park, located about 50 miles northeast of Ulaanbaatar, is over 5250 feet in altitude with cool temperatures amid beautiful alpine scenery. Covering an area of 721,280 acres, it is considered only the 14th largest national park in the country (about the size of Yosemite in California). The forest and Terelj River support a wide range of wildlife from bears, boar and deer, to foxes and wolves. Several species of bird of prey hunt in its skies. Famous rock formations like Turtle Rock, Praying Lama Rock and others, take no small degree of imagination to recognize. The small Terelj Settlement provides some amenities for visitors who just want to enjoy the views and not challenge the heights and depths of the forests. There is an excellent walking path beyond Turtle Rock which passes among several temples and inspirational placards.
Khövsgöl Province
Khövsgöl Province’s capital city is Murun. We flew there to board four-wheel vans for our drive to Lake Khövsgöl, one of Mongolia’s most scenic, mountainous areas with taiga/boreal forests extending north into Russian Siberia. Lake Khövsgöl is massive and fed by the same water supply as its cousin, Lake Baikal in Siberia. Mongolians refer to the lake as “Mother” and not only is it home to many species of fish, but its waters hold approximately 3% of the world’s fresh water. The lake is surrounded by dozens of mountains, thick forests and lush meadows with grazing yaks and horses and sheep and goats in the thousands.
We were warned it would be cool at night; it reminds me of walking a thickly frozen Lake Baikal in winter of 2010 and temperatures were -40º F. This beautiful area is a pleasant walk in a park in comparison, but then it is July. Hiking at altitude is challenging for this sea-level dweller but the taiga forests are beautiful, many wild flowers are in bloom, and one can discover an occasional cow or yak quietly grazing. Views over the massive lake are amazing as are its rocky shores decorated with sculptures of driftwood.
Taiga refers to a boreal forest or snow forest and is characterized as a biome. A biome is a biogeographical unit consisting of a biological community that has formed in response to the physical environment in which they are found and a shared regional climate and can comprise a variety of habitats. The taiga or boreal forest has been called the world’s largest land biome. This Mongolian taiga consists mostly of tall larches but also a sprinkling of pines and spruces.
Our leader has arranged daily activities and each add another layer of Soyombo.
We hike in the forest and along the steppes among goat and yak herds. Yaks are very wary of strangers and we must always remember few of these animals are domesticated in any way. The hills are alive with wildflowers and green grass (and yes, Julie Andrews is always singing in our minds). Nomads tend their herds of sheep and goats which sometimes number over 1000. Gers dot the landscape. Alongside the gers I often see solar panels and a car.
A short boat ride takes us to a reindeer herder’s camp. He brought a couple of his stock down from the mountain. It is about 58° but hot for the reindeer and they show little desire to avoid our touch. The large male tolerates the petting of his fuzzy antlers but it is obvious that he is ticklish.
We later visit a family of yak herders. Nomad hospitality is extended toward all visitors. The lady of the ger makes us delicious mint tea and serves a cheese and clotted cream with slabs of homemade sourdough bread. We learn more about their life and customs. The ger is comfortable and warm. Later, we observe as she milks her herd of 27, each giving bout a liter of yak milk twice a day. That is a lot of milk! Some they use in their milk diet or tea, clotted cream, yogurt and cheese and some they sell or trade.
At the ger camp there is also horseback riding and yak cart riding! Also, brave swimmers can go for a dip in the lake! Water temperature is about 42°. Otherwise, the best passage of time is to relax on one’s deck and watch the clouds, birds, and nomads go by.
The hills are always alive with the sound of something.
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