26 September 2021
Travel is muscle memory. At least it was. Much has changed because of Covid. I can’t utilize all the little perks of travel that once made the experience faster, easier and more pleasant. However, as I wrote earlier, travel may not be as easy but all the protections and requirements put in place are definitely worth the effort.
One no longer travels without:
(more…)22 September 2021
I can’t help it. When eating a delicious slice of pork shoulder, my server thought I was leaving the best part, the layer of crispy fat. “Das ist gut” she points out. Yes it is, I agree, but I have a desire to keep my arteries open a few more years.
So, as I sit in the Frankfurt Airport, perusing Paulaner’s German menu for “soul food,” I cannot pass on the Gegrillte Schweinshaxe as a further threat to my blood flow. Grilled pork knuckles are just too tempting to pass up. I love sauerkraut and just for the fine dining experience, I add a side of buttered Swabian noodles. “Takes half an hour, is okay?” Yes, actually it is perfect. I laze over my Hefeweizen and think of what a great “freedom” trip this has been.
(more…)19 September 2021
“ I may not meet a Brockmann cousin….” I previously wrote.
Among my family’s papers were four mysterious envelopes addressed by my grandmother Dora Brockmann to Brockmanns in Germany. One of those envelopes was addressed to Chris Brockmann, Bülts St. 11 in Celle. It was thought that he was a nephew.
(more…)19 September 2021
Walking Celle is like strolling through a Brothers Grimm folktale.
Walk Celle’s streets, ogle its magnificent architecture, enjoy the statues and fountains, and stand in the Markt Plaza when the Glockenspiel rings out. Overall, this is a charming city that should not be overlooked in one’s travels of Lower Saxony.
Celle is situated on the banks of the Aller River and is one of many wonderful cities along the Timber-Frame Road. Attractions include a castle, museums, and lots of street art in the form of a series of figures engaged in life about Celle. But for me, the main attractions are the timber-framed houses, some 400 of them, that line the streets of the historic Altstadt. It’s proximity to the beautiful, and fragrant, Lüneburg Heath is another reason to spend a couple days here.
17 September 2021
Two major events explain why I visit Celle.
In the winter of 1911, my grandmother Dora left her home and family in Celle to emigrate to the United States. I don’t exactly know why this petite 33 year-old, 5’2” woman, speaking little English and traveling alone would choose to leave her family and move to America. She must have had “spunk.” I know she was a spry 89 year-old.
(more…)17 September 2021
I have almost had to revise my positive opinion on DB because of dreaded gate changes but with a smattering of German and helpful English speakers, I am able to catch a later train.
16 September 2021
The Nuremberg Residenz is too groß and grand, Bamburg Residenz too small and simple, but Würzburg Residenz is just right.
Würzburg Residenz
From its entry foyer where carriages debarked its elite passengers under a 3D fresco to flow past the spectacular oval Garden Hall with its massive windows, pink marble columns, white stucco putti and vibrant frescos, to climb the Grand Staircase with its gorgeous high ceiling frescoes and life-sized sculptures, the 18th century Würzburg Residenz was meant to impress. And that includes the female statue at the top of the staircase gazing sweetly at her beheaded prince.
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