9 Oct 2025
Sadly, too little time in this city. From man hole covers to street art and lively socks, Himeji invites one to stay, play and explore.
I walk across the street to enter the modern, sparkling clean train station. The Shinkansen arrive and depart in time, on the minute. We stand in line waiting for the arrival. Soon, I discover, one has not lived until you experience a illegal Train speeding through the station at 200+ an hour!
We depart Himeji and continue by the Sanyo Shinkansen bullet train to Hiroshima. The towns and industries are interspersed with long tunnels through the mountains.
The ride is short and fast: 150 miles, 3 stops, 59 minutes. One does not a sense of speed as the train rides so smoothly and quietly. How I wish the U.S. would invest in the infrastructure of highspeed trains. Actually, invest in trains in general.
Miyajima Island
From Hiroshima Station, we continue our journey on a local train. Then, we leave the train to board a ferry which will take us to Miyajima Island. Crossing the calm waters of Hiroshima Bay, I couldn’t help but notice the rows of floating rafts, poles, and nets in the water.
These are part of the area’s aquaculture, mostly oyster farming. The waters around the island are famous for its oysters, and the floating structures support their cultivation by suspending ropes or mesh bags in the water, where oyster larvae attach and grow.
Miyajima Island, officially called Itsukushima, is a small island in Hiroshima Bay famous for its scenic beauty and historic shrines. I also hope to see some of the island’s friendly wild deer.
Lush forests and hiking trails cover the island while sacred Mount Misen offers panoramic views of the surrounding bay and Seto Inland Sea.
On the Waterfront
Strolling along the waterfront, views include the Great Toril and Itsukushima Shrine. The Itsukushima Shrine, a Shinto shrine built over the water with a floating torii gate, appears to rise from the sea during high tide. This torii represents one of Japan’s most photographed landmarks and considered a symbol of Shinto spirituality and harmony with nature. The shrine and torii together were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996.
Itsukushima Shrine has a history that stretches back to 593 CE. The shrine was established to honor the three daughters of the Shinto sea deity Susanoo-no-Mikoto. The shrine seen today was largely constructed between 1168 and 1176 by the powerful military leader Taira no Kiyomori. He expanded it into a large complex over the water.
Its unique design, with buildings supported on stilts above the water, creates the illusion that the shrine is floating during high tide, exemplifying the Shinto principle of harmonizing human structures with nature. The shrine itself contains multiple buildings linked by boardwalks.
The Great Torii gate has a long history as well. The current camphor wood gate was built in 1875. However, a torii has stood off the coast of Miyajima for centuries, with the first known wooden gate dating back to around the 6th century. Standing about 52 feet high and weighing roughly 60 tons, it stands on 6 pillars and appears to float on the water at high tide. The gate serves as both a spiritual entrance to the shrine and a landmark visible from the sea.
The shrine and the torii shines with the ubiquitous bright vermilion (red-orange) color for both practical and symbolic reasons. The combination of red shrines amid green nature recurs everywhere in Japan. The red paint, traditionally made with cinnabar (mercury sulfide) mixed with lacquer, proves highly durable. It acts as a protective coating against rot, insects, and the effects of humidity, which is especially important for wooden structures exposed to water or coastal climates.
Furthermore, in Shinto, people associate red with protection, purification, and the expulsion of evil spirits. By painting shrines in this color, they actively ward off negative energy and keep the sacred space spiritually clean. The color stands out beautifully against natural surroundings, making the shrine visually striking and emphasizing its sacredness.
Natural Beauty, Wild Deer and Spectacular Views
Our transport from seaside to mountaintop is achieved by a 20-minute path and the use of the Miyajima Ropeway. The line is long for the gondola. This aerial cable car system takes us up to the peaks of Mounty Misen, the island’s highest peak (elevation 1,755’). The ropeway spans only about .3 miles and dangles some 200’ off the ground. It offers a scenic and convenient way to enjoy panoramic views of the bay island and nearby Hiroshima without a strenuous hike.
Along the ride, we glide over lush forests and rugged terrain. Once at the top, we find temples, observation decks, and a big rock. In fact, evidently there are a lot of big rocks atop the peak. Like so many rocks when matched with human’s imaginations, many have earned names, like whale rock to ship rock. I am able to spend some quiet minutes wandering around the station to appreciate the views – and big rocks.
The Streets of Miyajima
I return to the small town of Miyajima, crowded with tourists and shoppers. Lining the waterfront are small shops and restaurants. And I can’t miss the numerous deer. They are an in-your-face pest looking for any handout.
Stone lanterns/shrines and komainu, often referred to as lion-dogs, line the promenade. Komainu typically come in pairs, like here. The one with its mouth open is saying ah, and across from him the closed-mouthed lion is saying un, similar to alpha and omega. This represents the beginning and end of all things in Buddhist and Shinto symbolism.
The occasional little deer walks across my path looking for a handout. I pause at the alpha male komainu to ask for continued good fortune and ask he watch over Jimisan.
Vending machines sit on every block. I stop to compare offerings. They draw me to them like slot machines in a casino. The one I love is selling hit, fried oysters. Delicious and straight out of the bay. Cost: $3.89.
I have to return as next time I have to dial for fried octopus.
Too soon, I head to the ferry for the trip back to the mainland.
Overnight in Hiroshima
My lodging for the night is the ANA Crown Plaza in downtown Hiroshima. We lodge in a modern IHG high rise. I couldn’t ask for nicer amenities nor more modern accommodations. Of course, every building around me is modern.
At 8:15am on 6 August 1945, the first atomic bomb ever used against a city exploded over a spot about 2000 feet from where I sleep.
Tomorrow will be a big day.
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