From Temples to Takeoff: Closing this Japanese Chapter

13 – 14  October 2025

The traditional shukubō lodging offers rest, meditation, dining on shōjin ryōri Buddhist vegetarian cuisine, and the opportunity to join in the religious life. I’ve enjoyed rest and veggies, now comes my test. This morning, I am asked to rise early “to enjoy a morning prayer service with the monks.” My iPhone reads 6:30 am.

Morning Prayers – Senzokuyo 先祖供養：Praying for our ancestors

I walk to the main temple at 7. Inside, the air is thick with the scent of incense curling upward. Rows of flickering candles and hanging lanterns cast a warm, golden glow over gilded statues and intricate carvings. The gold icons shimmer in the dim light, reflecting a serene radiance that fills the hall. A soft tap on a bell resounds throughout. The quiet hum of chanting begins.

This ceremony is to show daily appreciation to Buddhist saints and to hold an ancestral memorial service. The monks have devoted themselves to pray for the repose of ancestors’ souls for more than a thousand years in Ekoin. Eko means to give thanks to our ancestors and hold a memorial service. To practice virtue lets your ancestors rest in peace and brings rewards to you.

We are invited to participate in a common Buddhist purification act known as offering incense, or shōkō (焼香).

One by one, we approach the altar, bow respectfully, and then take a small pinch of powdered incense from a container. Lift it to your forehead or chest in a gesture of reverence before gently sprinkling it onto the burning incense in the censer. This act symbolizes purification of body and mind, and an offering of respect to the Buddha, ancestors, or deities.

Goma Fire Ritual

After morning prayers, we participate in the fire ritual. The previous night, we could inscribe our own prayer sticks for blessings. This morning, they are burned.

The ritual is a sacred Shingon Buddhist ceremony dedicated to the Wisdom King Fudo Myo-o, who symbolizes the power to destroy ignorance and obstacles.

During the ritual, a priest chanted mantras and performs hand gestures while feeding our wooden sticks inscribed with prayers into the flames. The atmosphere is filled with rhythmic chanting, the crackle of fire, smoke, and the scent of incense. After the ceremony, move around the fire to waft the smoke over us in a healing ritual. 

Bus, Funicular and Train

After breakfast, we depart nature’s beauty and tranquility. From Kōyasan, we exit the forests by bus, and descend the mountain by funicular, then catch a local train. We travel to the bright lights and hustle of Osaka – the epitome of modern Japan.

Bright Lights Big City Osaka

Osaka represents Japan’s third-largest city, considered to be its commercial hub. With a population of about 2.7 million in the city proper and nearly 19 million in its wider metropolitan area, Osaka represents one of the most densely populated regions in the world. The city itself is compact yet sprawling, full of busy streets, neon-lit districts, and lively neighborhoods. Wrapping around Osaka Bay with Kobe to the West, Nara to the East, and within sight of majestic mountains, despite the bustle, Osaka seems quite appealing.

Known as the “nation’s kitchen,” it has a reputation for incredible street food like takoyaki, okonomiyaki, and kushikatsu. People also appreciate it for a culture of warmth and humor. The nightlife in areas like Dōtonbori is vibrant and flashy, with huge illuminated billboards and canal-side entertainment. Quieter moments can be found in Osaka Castle Park or along the rivers. 

Osaka blends modern skyscrapers and bustling shopping districts with historic shrines, temples, and traditional neighborhoods. Sites include Universal Studios, many museums, galleries and parks. The city exudes a character that feels both energetic and approachable.

Exploration Breeds Future Plans

After a twisting drive down the mountain from Kōyasan and crossing the city to Namba Station, we arrive at our final Japanese hotel, the Monterey Grasmere in downtown Osaka. I am surrounded by modern buildings and the City Air Terminal. A good location for flight departures but not much for historic sites. 

In my brief stay, I never saw a quiet side.

In the midst of Dotonbori District, it feels like stepping into a living carnival of light, sound, and motion. Crowds flow endlessly through the narrow arcade, everyone shopping, playing games, or eating street food, everything from, sizzling delights to chilled strawberries   

The neon signs and giant animated billboards flash overhead, their reflections rippling across the Tombori River. From the pedestrian bridge of Ebisu, the heart of Osaka’s shopping frenzy, the energy surges even higher—fashionable youths strut by in styles only they could pull off, laughter mingles with the calls of vendors, and every corner feels alive.

Endless shopping means I found my five-toed socks. Three pairs for 1188 yen. That equates to $7.86. This bargain price even though our dollar is at an historic low, the lowest exchange rate ever recorded. I arrived at .0079 and currently the rate is .0065. Thanks to orange fat guy’s bully pulpit trade war.

On this particular day—the final day of Expo 2025 and Family Day: Japanese Sports Day, Dotonbori hums with double intensity, a whirlwind of celebration and chaos that seems to capture the pulse of Osaka itself.

Meeting Labubu

And then there is Pop Mart. The guard at the door controls the long line waiting for entrance. They are the lucky ones. They won the lottery for today’s admission. What is so popular? The new Lububu is here! Only in Japan?

Last Bites and Last Goodbyes 

Relaxing and sipping, I am fully aware there are direct flights between Osaka and California. I plan to board one in the future for a return to Japan. There remains much to explore among the islands and cities to the southwest. No rush, I can relax and contemplate all things Japanese, for now.

Once again, it’s time for a farewell dinner. There’s always a mix of feelings, though I think most of us are just ready to get home—to our own showers, beds, and schedules. I’ll admit I’ll miss the catered meals, service and Toto toilets; my bathroom never looks as clean as the Japanese ones! 

But I crave peace and quiet!

From the 27th floor of our hotel, a sea of lights frame Osaka in a Christmasy beauty. The city beckons the strong, resilient and, possibly, those who are a glutton for punishment.

Long Day, Long Flight

I saw an operating miniature of Osaka’s airport while visiting Small Worlds in Tokyo. Now, I see the real thing. Located in Osaka Bay, Kansai International Airport offers flights direct to California. 

Though eighteen hours of flights and layovers ahead sounds daunting, United Polaris will soften the blow. I am being delayed a couple hours; however, a long layover in SFO should mitigate the time.

The caramel sundae will taste all the sweeter.