I have almost had to revise my positive opinion on DB because of dreaded gate changes but with a smattering of German and helpful English speakers, I am able to catch a later train.
The Nuremberg Residenz is too groß and grand, Bamburg Residenz too small and simple, but Würzburg Residenz is just right.
Würzburg Residenz
From its entry foyer where carriages debarked its elite passengers under a 3D fresco to flow past the spectacular oval Garden Hall with its massive windows, pink marble columns, white stucco putti and vibrant frescos, to climb the Grand Staircase with its gorgeous high ceiling frescoes and life-sized sculptures, the 18th century Würzburg Residenz was meant to impress. And that includes the female statue at the top of the staircase gazing sweetly at her beheaded prince.
I love the tradition of dining on the sidewalks and in plazas. Weather here is perfect for outside seating. Dining in the fresh air and surrounded by the ongoing activity of local life gives me time to ruminate and people watch. It is always a pleasant, passive pastime.
I suppose I could say all rail lines lead to Bamberg because my train is transiting southeast to reach the city of Bamberg, some 45 miles north of Nuremberg. The train travels via Bayreuth and I go where the conductor goes. The countryside is green, bikers abound, fields are plowed and raked. I see a smattering of half-timbered houses, barns, corn, bundled hay and chickens. Occasional white sandstone cliffs dot the landscape among dense Bavarian forests with high distant hills. Quiet streams weave around it all. Quite idyllic, except for the steeply pitched roofs which hint of winters with lots of snow.
One reason for immediately liking Nuremberg is I love old walled cities. Nuremberg Castle and city walls represent a formidable medieval defensive system. During the Middle Ages, the castle was one of the most important imperial castles of the Holy Roman Empire. Today, refreshed and caffeine reinforced, I am ready for the climb to explore.
To reach the castle, I follow the city walls. Construction of the present wall started as early as the 12th century and ended officially in the 16th century. Not just the high stone wall but over 130 towers (today 71 remain), seven fortified gates, a flat field (kennel) of over 150′ then another smaller wall and the wide and 40′ deep moat though which water never flowed, protected the city and its inhabitants. Why so much?
It’s an easy walk to U1, getting a ticket and then figuring direction of travel. About 10 minutes later I arrive at my destination: Memorium Nuremberg and Palace of Justice. It is a huge complex but the Palace is closed today, Saturday. My real purpose is to visit the site of the infamous Nuremberg Trials and the event that changed how the world faced international justice and dealing with crimes against humanity.
When traveling, one so often discovers ways we, meaning my own country of the United States, could do better. Certainly when it comes to mass transit and trains, there is a lot we could learn from the Germans.
Using their DB Navigator app, I easily booked my train from Munich to Nuremberg, paid using my PayPal account, downloaded the ticket to my Wallet and to their app, and boarded my 9:42 am train. Which left the station at 9:42. Once on board, I was able to connect to their free wifi and use their Comfort Check-in, meaning the conductor knew I was there and did not bother to further disturb me for a ticket. So civilized, fast and efficient. We also arrived exactly on schedule. I wonder the last time Amtrak had such success?
