Traipsing Thru Transylvania

Sinaia and Bran Castle, Romania

22 May 2019

Any science fiction buff recognizes the Carpathian Mountains. These mountains form a 900-mile range in Central and Eastern Europe with peaks reaching upwards of 7800 feet. Over half of the Carpathians lie in Romania, where the forests are home to brown bears, lynxes and wolves. Its passes are gateways to Transylvania, the land of the Magyar, the Moc and Romanian peoples – and Count Dracula. There is a drapery of snow across distant peaks and a layer of clouds hover over the range. I can hear the “children of the night” howling my welcome.

(more…)

Bucharest Is Not Budapest!

21 May 2019

I enjoy traveling independently. The planning of my trip is as enjoyable as the actual travel. Both are learning experiences. However, there are destinations where it is more difficult to maneuver as a solo female traveler; exploring the countryside of some countries necessitates a different approach. Thus, for the remainder of my trip, I join an organized tour which will move me around rural Romania. From now forward, I am at the mercy of another’s planning: their choice of hotels, restaurants, and sites of interest, their time schedules. Our group is small, just eight bladders. (more…)

Exploring The Other Side of Bucharest

19-20 May 2019

At the entrance to Strada Lipscani in Old Town is the mandatory Roman Statue recognized throughout the world. Rome’s she wolf nurtures Romulus and Remus. The Italians gave it to Romania in 1906 but it does look sort of out of place. But, it is a good entry point to Old Town. One can stroll these streets for hours enjoying the mix of architecture, much of it influenced by classical and French influences, Greco-Roman, neoclassical, and baroque; a little Art Deco here and a little communist efficiency there. (more…)

Bucharest on a Monday Evening

18 May 2019

What are you all going to do for excitement without me around here?  It’s going to be as boring as Bucharest on a Monday night.” – Count Dracula

Biserica Sfântul Nicolae Șelari

My cousin Pam and I arrive at our hotel in Old Town Bucharest and are eager to see if old Drac was correct. Though I am meeting a tour in a few days, there are things I want to see and enjoy on my own. Tours do not cater to the individual but to the masses. There are churches, architecture, fountains, museums, and cafes along cobbled stone streets of historic Lipscani to explore.

Though the communist tried to suppress the practice of religion and destroyed many churches, there remains a neighborhood church around every corner. Romanians, long denied religious freedoms, practice their faith and churches are busy with weddings, christenings, and services. Some churches are beautifully restored while others still reflect the neglect of the communist era. All Orthodox churches are worth a few minutes stop to admire their frescoes.

I would be hard pressed to pick a favorite but if I had to choose it would be a church dedicated to St. Nicholas or St. Nicolae. There are at least four found in Bucharest. (more…)

Varna and the Black Sea Coast

“Europe’s new funky-town”

Варна, България – Varna, Bulgria

16-17 May 2019

Varna drapes around Bulgaria’s Black Sea Coast and the lovely Gulf of Varna. Originally called Odessos and an important Thracian seaside port, Varna has been a major economic and cultural center for over 3000 years. Lots of history, mild temperatures, ancient Roman ruins, turquoise seas, and the oldest gold treasure in the world – the walled city of Varna sounds like my kind of destination.

Pam and I take the train from Stara Zagora to Varna. The countryside is mostly flat and agricultural. The train is mostly dirty and slow. However, by afternoon we are dipping our toes into the Black Sea.

What is special about Varna? For one, it’s ancient history. (more…)

Stara Zagora, Bulgaria

Стара Загора, България – Stara Zagora, Bulgaria

14-15 May 2019

Stara Zagora, meaning the old region beyond the Balkan mountains, was settled by Thracians sometime between the 5-4th century BC. The city itself was founded by Phillip II of Macedon in 342 BC. The city grew to its largest radius under Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius (161-180) and became the second most important city in the Roman province with such auspicious visitors and Caracalla, Septimius Severus and Diocletian. As a result of the Gothic War 376-382, the city was destroyed but rebuilt by Justinian. In 1208 the Bulgarians defeated the Latin Empire, kicked their Roman butts out and established their own homeland. (more…)

Exploring Bulgaria – Thracians and Bulgarian Roses

13 May 2019

I am being fed, pampered, clothed, fed, entertained, and fed with real Bulgarian hospitality. Mila, Vladimir and daughter Pam are spoiling me to the max. Today, they guide me to several fascinating sites of very early Bulgarian history. Americans learn next to nothing about this region of the world. We are missing out on the fascinating early beginnings of Man and his evolution and survival.

(more…)