I’ve read that there are no fewer than eighteen ways to say “hello” in Japanese, which means I’m visiting Japan eighteen steps behind. When I learned the Russian alphabet, at least I could puzzle out the words on a sign—even if I couldn’t pronounce a single one correctly. Japanese, however, covers a whole different universe. Then, add the usage of Chinese characters alongside Japanese characters. Q
I don’t have the faintest clue what the characters mean, let alone how to say them. So for now, my linguistic arsenal in Tokyo consists of a polite bow, “konnichiwa,” and smile—which, I hope, is one of those eighteen greetings.