Kanazawa in Three Acts: Samurai, Teahouses, and Gold

4 October 2025

Kanazawa’s history began in feudal times as the seat of the Maeda clan, one of Japan’s wealthiest and most powerful families. The Maeda ruled the Kaga Domain, which rivaled even Kyoto and Edo (Tokyo) in culture, wealth, and sophistication. Their influence shaped Kanazawa into a city of refinement, arts, and meticulous design. It seems to have retained that atmosphere.

Kanazawa Train Station

Today, the city is a mosaic of well-preserved historical districts, each offering a different glimpse into its past. The Higashi Chaya District teems with traditional teahouses where geisha once entertained, while the Nagamachi Samurai District showcases narrow lanes and elegant homes of samurai. Both districts transports one back to the Edo period. Add in the serene gardens of Kenrokuen and the old markets, and you have a city that feels both frozen in time and vibrantly alive.

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From Mountain Roads to Saké Flows

3 October 2025

Scenery consists of mountains, trees and yellow rice fields under cloudy skies

Today, we depart via bus. Ultimately, we will travel about 72 miles northwest reaching the Sea of Japan, which, in China, is still the Japan Sea. We plan a couple stops in between. In the meantime, I see more mountains and more trees. Many more mountains and many, many more trees. So green! Everything and everyone seems to be preparing for winter.

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Takayama Treasures: Streets, Shrines, and Shopping

2 October 2025

Takayama used to be the castle town which General Nagachika Kanamori built on behalf of his master at the end of the Sengoku era when Hideyosi Toyotomi ruled Japan. In 1692, however, Hida district came under the direct control of the Tokugawa government, and almost all samurai left Takayama. So l’m told.

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Old Nakasendō Way – Tsumago to Magome

1 October 2025

A short drive takes us southerly over the 2,628-foot Magome Pass. The pass is the highest elevation along the Nakasendō  Way. Surrounding mountains and the cedar and bamboo forests are outstanding. It is difficult to consider these undulating hills as mountains when I regularly drive over passes at 4,000’. However, unlike the more northern peaks in Japan that can receive up to 50 feet of snow, the Tsumago-Magome area is more temperate and snowfall is not as heavy or burdensome. 

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Tsumago: Exploring Jizō and Vending Machines 

30 September 2025

After a delightful evening in Narai followed by a Western breakfast, I enjoy time to wander Narai’s streets. The village seems a good place to buy lacquerware and woodcrafts. Not being a shopper, I stroll main street to enjoy the wonderful architecture. Perhaps I’ll spot a keychain with a Godzilla on it. 

Japanese Western breakfast – at least early coffee. We agree, Japan needs some serious coffee cups.
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Steps Through Time – Sipping Miso, Skipping Tea

29 September 2025

Japanese breakfast, no yogurt or coffee in sight!

This morning, we begin our days of train travel. For someone from the U.S., I am always impressed by the development and efficiency of public transportation around the world. In most of my country, without a car, you’re screwed. There exist few reliable public transportation options. Therefore, while the Japanese may apologize and fret about a train being a minute late, I am just happy it shows up and gets me where I want to go. 

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