Scenery consists of mountains, trees and yellow rice fields under cloudy skies
Today, we depart via bus. Ultimately, we will travel about 72 miles northwest reaching the Sea of Japan, which, in China, is still the Japan Sea. We plan a couple stops in between. In the meantime, I see more mountains and more trees. Many more mountains and many, many more trees. So green! Everything and everyone seems to be preparing for winter.
2 October 2025 Imagine sitting down in a serene tatami room, shoes politely abandoned at the door. You sit on a pillow on the floor. Your feet fall into a well under the low table. Before you is a three Read more
Takayama used to be the castle town which General Nagachika Kanamori built on behalf of his master at the end of the Sengoku era when Hideyosi Toyotomi ruled Japan. In 1692, however, Hida district came under the direct control of the Tokugawa government, and almost all samurai left Takayama. So l’m told.
A short drive takes us southerly over the 2,628-foot Magome Pass. The pass is the highest elevation along the Nakasendō Way. Surrounding mountains and the cedar and bamboo forests are outstanding. It is difficult to consider these undulating hills as mountains when I regularly drive over passes at 4,000’. However, unlike the more northern peaks in Japan that can receive up to 50 feet of snow, the Tsumago-Magome area is more temperate and snowfall is not as heavy or burdensome.
After a delightful evening in Narai followed by a Western breakfast, I enjoy time to wander Narai’s streets. The village seems a good place to buy lacquerware and woodcrafts. Not being a shopper, I stroll main street to enjoy the wonderful architecture. Perhaps I’ll spot a keychain with a Godzilla on it.
Japanese Western breakfast – at least early coffee. We agree, Japan needs some serious coffee cups. (more…)
This morning, we begin our days of train travel. For someone from the U.S., I am always impressed by the development and efficiency of public transportation around the world. In most of my country, without a car, you’re screwed. There exist few reliable public transportation options. Therefore, while the Japanese may apologize and fret about a train being a minute late, I am just happy it shows up and gets me where I want to go.
Today, we again travel by coach: direction northeast 190 miles to Yudanaka. Distance doesn’t amount to much but the slow, busy roads take most of our day.
Once we arrive, we will visit a hot spring village far less famous for its hot baths than for the monkeys who have usurped them.
