27-29 September 2024
There exists far more to Rio than sandy beaches, Carnival, and volcanic plugs. The city is a jumble of wide chaotic streets, a fusion of colonial and modern, with a population of 6 million. Colorful favelas (slums) crawl up the hillsides.
But Rio is also surrounded by bays, hills and forests of natural beauty. Rio looks a mosaic from a distance but up close its heartbeat is robust, loud and lively. Exploring Rio represents a definite real-life experience.
My final weekend in Rio, I enjoy temperatures in the mid-70s and a possibility for light showers (it does). Streets are nearly empty. A local warned me that certain areas were unsafe. While I have not seen one cat, there are many homeless living in tarp tents and on cardboard. (Oddly enough, scores of indigents sleep next door in front of the offices of the Public Prosecutor and Public Defender.) While I would not walk most areas at night, I find the daytime streets friendly, albeit crowded with tourists.
Walking Rio, I explored historic colonial sites, traversed neighborhoods of shabby chic, walked through favelas of the less fortunate. Just around some corners I found the downright scuzzy.
This a city of hills. Expect stairs!
Observations – there is need to pick up trash, gardens need more care, and police are everywhere. It’s all interesting.
My Top 9 Sites
Flamingo Park
Taking a break from busy streets, I strolled Flamengo Park, 30 square miles of currently dry landscape developed on reclaimed land bordering Guanabara Bay. Enjoy beaches, airport activities, and panoramic views. Within the park are countless important monuments, sculptures, fountains, Praça Paris (Paris Square), cycling & walking paths, art installations, and many food and refreshments kiosks.
The beach is the draw for nearly naked women of all ages and shapes, and beefy men lifting weights, playing beach volleyball and checking out their competition. The homeless seem to inhabit the gardens.
What, a Maltese Cross on Flamingo Beach? Quick search reveals here is the Club de Regatas Vasco da Gama, known as Vasco da Gama, a Brazilian multisports club. Founded in 1898 (football began in 1915), by Portuguese immigrants, it is one of the most popular clubs in all Brazil, with more than 20 million supporters.
I admit I love memorials and statues. One learns so much about the history of a place by it honored heroes and monuments. one of the best in the park is The Monumento Nacional aos Mortos da Segunda. This memorial is dedicated to the lost heroes who died in WW2.
Others include Monumento Deodoro da Fonseca honoring Manuel Deodoro da Fonseca who led the military coup deposing Emperor Pedro II and then served as Brazil’s first president 1889-1891.
Toward the south end of the beach is the Cultural Space Estácio de Sá Monument, a pyramid of which I have had no idea what it commemorates. Google tells me rye pyramid honors Estácio de Sá, a Portuguese officer and first governor of Rio de Janeiro
Museu da República or Palácio do Catete
Finished in 1867, this private mansion acted as Brazil’s presidential palace from 1897 to 1960. It is also the site of Getúlio Vargas’ suicide. This excellent museum is free. Information is in English.
Originally, the building was built as the residence of the very wealthy family of the Portuguese-born Brazilian coffee producer António Clemente Pinto. For a time during the 1880s, it became a luxury hotel. This venture failed. Finally, in 1897, Vice President Manual Vitorino acquired the Catete Palace and installed the seat of government where it remained I told 1960 when the capital and the Federal District were transferred to Brasília.
The Catete is three floors of opulence with a Venetian Room, a Moorish Room, and a vase which was a gift from Napoleon. A grand central staircase leads to the top floors where the family lives and government was conducted steps away.
Various historical events happened in the palace halls, such as the death of President Pena in 1909, the signing of the declaration of war against Germany in 1917; the visit of Cardinal Eugenio Pacelli, the future Pope Prius XII, in 1934; the declaration of war against the Axis Powers in 1942; and tragically the suicide of President Getúlio Vargas in 1954 with a shot in the heart in his third floor bedroom.
“I like being interpreted more than explaining myself.”
Getúlio Vargas, 1939
Getúlio Vargas Memorial
Speaking of Vargas, I left the Catete unsure how history and Brazilians viewed Vargas. So I took the opportunity to visit the Getúlio Vargas Memorial.
This small museum does an excellent job in explaining the timeline of Vargas’ rise to the presidency (in office 1930-1945 and 1951-1954) his good works, his failings, and his eventual fall and suicide. The displays are also in English.
Vargas did rule as a “dictator” for many years. However, he was responsible for the passage of many important reforms, supporting the allies during World War II, building infrastructure including the domestic airport and the lookout and Christ the Redeemer, and advancing many benefits for the people and labor.
Innuendo and pressure from his enemies, and a threatened coup by is military, led to his suicide. Thousands of people filled the streets to follow his casket from Caliente to the domestic airport. “It was the largest outpouring of the people ever seen in the city of Rio de Janeiro.“
“The enormous crowd of people from Rio, as well as other Brazilians that followed his funeral possession, was testimony to his victory in a guarantee of his place in the hearts of the people in the history of Brazil.”
He appears a complicated man but history seems to have treated him well.
Museu Historico Nacional
Another excellent museum, is the Museu Historico Nacional which offers a comprehensive look into Brazil’s history, from its indigenous cultures to colonial times and the imperial era. It’s an excellent place to understand the country’s past.
The museum is housed in an historic 19th-century building that was once the Imperial Palace. Its collection includes everything from military artifacts and colonial-era art to historical documents, a close examination of the brutal history of slavery in Brasil, and everyday objects from various periods of history.
Most information is in English. Museum is free.
Strolling the Marina from Museum Histórico to Praça Mauá
Praça Mauá, port and Rio-Niterói bridge in background
A walk along the port area from the Museu Historico Nacional to Praça Mauá (about 2 miles) is filled with interesting colonial architecture, several museums, and on the weekend when I walked there, the entire area was crammed with mobile kiosks, musicians, cafés, plus a huge flea market. For a lively atmosphere this is one area to explore.
Escadaria Selarón / Saint Teresa’s Steps
The Selarón Steps is a colorful, 215-step mosaic staircase created by Chilean artist Jorge Selarón. However, the artist is endeavor extends far beyond the steps to include the surrounding walls and frontages. The area is decorated with over thousands of tiles from around the world.
Many tiles are originals by Selarón. Take time to climb the stairs to the top, stop often to appreciate the diversity of the tiles, look for one from your home state of country. Perhaps the stair’s are my favorite stop in Rio.
If you climb to the top of the stairs, turn right and walk down the narrow street. It passes through the vibrant neighborhood of Lapa. The street comes out beside the Arcos da Aqueduto or Aqueduct and Cardinal Camara Plaza. This historic landmark was constructed between 1714 and 1723. It was designed to bring fresh water from the Carioca River to the city’s growing population.
The aqueduct features 42 arches, which span a total length of about 885 feet and rise to a height of 56 feet.
The structure is made of local stone and in the early 20th century, was repurposed as a bridge for trams. Today, it is an iconic landmark and a popular spot for photos and cafes. I would not advise doing this at night.
Street Graffiti or Urban Art
Art is in the eye of the beholder. The beholder can see art everywhere in Rio. While there is plenty of inept graffiti, there exists a plethora of original and well executed graffiti within the neighborhoods. There are several good art museums and Brazilian artists, but the originality and messaging of urban art should not be overlooked.
Museu do Amanhã – Museum of Tomorrow
By far one of the best science museums I have seen is the Museu do Amanhã on the Praça Mauá. Kids will love it and adults may learn some critical lessons from its immersive and interactive exhibits.
When I entered, a young man pulled me aside. Entrance free for me: “because I’m old?” my words not his. I am provided an electronic card, sort of a tap-to-pay to change exhibits into English. Brilliant! “Normal is always changing.”
The goal of this ultra-modern Museum of Tomorrow states:
“Experiment Science has three thematic axes: Phenomena in the World, Learning by Doing and Imagining Futures. The proposal is to present a set of interactive facilities that address physical, biological, chemical, and social phenomena. Thus, we approach some scientific concepts in a playful way, guided by curiosity, charm, and the permanent search for knowledge…Here science and experience connect with action to sharpen the senses and think about the world and our relationship with it!“
To move through the museum, translate the displays, play the games, and watch the big-screen presentations represents an amazing learning experience. Throughout, lessons and displays emphasizes biodiversity, connectivity, and our ecological impact on the future.
“The future is not finished and done.”
Sound Bite allowed me to listen to my bones! I swear they sounded like whiny, barking dogs!!!
My visit resembles a passage through “future shock.” They ask: Where are we heading? I played Ecological Footprint and failed mis. Played Human Game of Tomorrow and let humans down. At Civilization’s Game I pretty much helped to destroy the planet by 2050. So I surmise the future doesn’t look good.
Sugarloaf and Corcovado Mountain with Christ the Redeemer
Both these iconic sites overlooking Rio and its bays are a required stop for tourists. They take more time to reach than to explore and snap the ubiquitous photos. Both sites are crowded, crowded, crowded! Both are terribly commercial. If unlucky, the clouds may be in and you’ll see nothing.
Sugarloaf and Guanabara Bay from Corcovado Mountain (left)
Once “been there, done that” soothe yourself with a quiet walk in a park and a cold cerveja.
21 miles across Rio
Strolling the streets of Rio is a mix of modern noise and bustle contrasted with colonial architecture reflecting the long history of the city. Urban art, architecture and history are ever present. With a plethora of cafes from which to choose, delicious nourishment can be easily found. And, there is always the opportunity to sample a cold local draft and enjoy the views. All served at prices not seen in California for decades.
I end my trip and my visit in Rio much as I began a month ago. I enjoy a large dish of garlic shrimp and a cool gin and tonic. I will Uber to Galeão International for a late 9 pm departure and begin my 21 hour journey home.
The rewards have been worth the effort in getting here.
