27-29 September 2024

There exists far more to Rio than sandy beaches, Carnival, and volcanic plugs. The city is a jumble of wide chaotic streets, a fusion of colonial and modern, and a population of 6 million. Colorful favelas (slums) crawl up the hillsides.

But Rio is also surrounded by bays, hills and forests of natural beauty. Rio looks a mosaic from a distance but up close its heartbeat is robust, loud and lively. Exploring Rio represents a definite real-life experience. 

My final weekend in Rio, I enjoy temperatures in the mid-70s and a possibility for light showers (it does). Streets are nearly empty. I have not seen one cat, but many homeless live in tarp tents and on cardboard. (Oddly enough, scores of indigents sleep next to my hotel in front of the offices of the Public Prosecutor and Public Defender.) A local warned me that certain areas were unsafe. While I would not walk most areas at night, I find the daytime streets friendly, albeit crowded with tourists. 

Walking Rio, I explored historic sites, traversed neighborhoods of shabby chic, walked through favelas of the less fortunate. Just around some corners I found the downright scuzzy.

This a city of hills. Expect stairs! But Rio is also colorful and lively where one should explore beyond the crowded tourists haunts.

My observation – there is need to pick up trash, gardens need more care, and police are everywhere. It’s all interesting. 

My Top 9 Sites

Flamingo Park

Taking a break from busy streets, I strolled Flamengo Park, 30 square miles of currently dry landscape developed on reclaimed land bordering Guanabara Bay. Its a place to enjoy beaches, airport activities, and panoramic views. Within the park are countless important monuments, sculptures, fountains, Praça Paris (Paris Square), cycling & walking paths, art installations, and many food and refreshments kiosks.

The beach is the draw for nearly naked women of all ages and shapes, and beefy men lifting weights, playing beach volleyball and checking out their competition. The homeless seem to inhabit the gardens.  

What, a Maltese Cross on Flamingo Beach? Quick research explains the Club de Regatas Vasco da Gama, known as Vasco da Gama, a Brazilian multisports club. Founded in 1898 (football began in 1915) by Portuguese immigrants, it is one of the most popular clubs in all Brazil, with more than 20 million supporters. 

I admit I love memorials and statues.  One learns so much about the history of a place by its honored heroes and monuments. One of the best in the park is The Monumento Nacional aos Mortos da Segunda dedicated to the heroes who died in WW2.

Left, Monument to the Sá; right, Monument to WWII fallen

Others include Monumento Deodoro da Fonseca honoring Manuel Deodoro da Fonseca who led the military coup deposing Emperor Pedro II and then served as Brazil’s first president 1889-1891.

Toward the south end of the beach is the Cultural Space Estácio de Sá Monument, a pyramid of which I have no idea what it commemorates. Google tells me this pyramid honors Estácio de Sá, a Portuguese officer and first governor of Rio de Janeiro

Museu da República or Palácio do Catete

Finished in 1867, this private mansion acted as Brazil’s presidential palace from 1897 to 1960. It is also the site of Getúlio Vargas’ suicide. This excellent  museum is free and information presented in English. 

Originally, the building was constructed as the residence of the very wealthy family of the Portuguese-born Brazilian coffee producer António Clemente Pinto. For a time during the 1880s, it became a luxury hotel. This venture failed. Finally, in 1897, Vice President Manual Vitorino acquired the Catete Palace and installed the seat of government where it remained until 1960 when the capital and the Federal District transferred to Brasília. 

The Catete is three floors of opulence with a Venetian Room, a Moorish Room, and a vase which was a gift from Napoleon. A grand central staircase leads to the top floors where the family lived and government conducted just steps away. 

Various historical events happened in the palace halls, such as the death of President Pena in 1909, the signing of the declaration of war against Germany in 1917; the visit of Cardinal Eugenio Pacelli, the future Pope Prius XII, in 1934; the declaration of war against the Axis Powers in 1942; and tragically the suicide of President Getúlio Vargas in 1954 with a shot in the heart in his third floor bedroom. 

“I like being interpreted more than explaining myself.” Getúlio Vargas, 1939

Getúlio Vargas Memorial

Speaking of Vargas, I left the Catete unsure how history and Brazilians viewed him. So I took the opportunity to visit the Getúlio Vargas Memorial near Flamingo Park. 

This small museum does an excellent job in explaining the timeline of Vargas’ rise to the presidency (in office 1930-1945 and 1951-1954) his good works, his failings, and his eventual fall and suicide. The displays are also in English. 

Vargas did rule as a “dictator” for many years. However, he was responsible for the passage of many important reforms, supported the allies during World War II, built infrastructure including the domestic airport and the lookout and Christ the Redeemer, and advanced many benefits for people and labor. 

Vargas and FDR, 1943

Innuendo and pressure from his enemies, and a threatened coup by is military, led to his suicide. Thousands of people filled the streets to follow his casket from Caliente to the domestic airport. “It was the largest outpouring of the people ever seen in the city of Rio de Janeiro.“

The enormous crowd of people from Rio, as well as other Brazilians that followed his funeral possession, was testimony to his victory in a guarantee of his place in the hearts of the people in the history of Brazil.” 

He appears a complicated man but history seems to have treated him well. 

Museu Historico Nacional

Another excellent museum, Museu Historico Nacional offers a comprehensive look into Brazil’s history, from its indigenous cultures to colonial times and the imperial era. It’s an excellent place to understand the country’s long and complicated past.

The museum is housed in an historic 19th-century building that was once the Imperial Palace. Its collection includes everything from military artifacts and colonial-era art to historical documents, a close examination of the brutal history of slavery in Brasil, and everyday objects from various periods of history.

Most information presented in English. Museum is free.  

Strolling the Marina from Museum Histórico to Praça Mauá

Praça Mauá, port and Rio-Niterói bridge in background

A walk along the port area from the Museu Historico Nacional northwest to Praça Mauá (about 2 miles) offers interesting colonial architecture and several museums. On the weekend, the entire area teemed with mobile kiosks, musicians, cafés, plus a huge flea market. For a lively atmosphere this is one area to definitely explore. 

Escadaria Selarón / Saint Teresa’s Steps

The Selarón Steps is a colorful, 215-step mosaic staircase created by Chilean artist Jorge Selarón. However, the artist’s endeavors extend far beyond the steps to include the surrounding walls and frontages. The neighborhood is decorated with thousands of tiles from around the world.

Many tiles are originals by Selarón. Take time to climb the stairs to the top, stop often to appreciate the diversity of the tiles, look for one from your home state or country. Perhaps the stair’s are my favorite stop in Rio. 

Climb to the top of the stairs, turn right and walk down the narrow street. The path passes through the vibrant neighborhood of Lapa. The street comes out beside the Arcos da Aqueduto or Aqueduct and Cardinal Camara Plaza. This historic landmark, constructed between 1714 and 1723, was designed to bring fresh water from the Carioca River to the city’s growing population.

The aqueduct features 42 arches, which span a total length of about 885 feet and rise to a height of 56 feet.

The structure consists of local stone and in the early 20th century, repurposed as a bridge for trams. Today, it is an iconic landmark and a popular spot for photos and cafes. I would not advise doing this at night. 

 Street Graffiti or Urban Art?

Lapa (left), League of Justice in Marina

Art is in the eye of the beholder. A beholder sees art everywhere in Rio. While there survives plenty of inept and ugly scrawls, there exists a plethora of original and well-executed graffiti within the neighborhoods. Rio hosts several good art museums and Brazilian artists, but the originality and messaging of urban art should not be overlooked.

Left, ugly tagging of a church; right, tiled stairs in the Lapa neighborhood

Museu do Amanhã – Museum of Tomorrow

By far one of the best science museums I have seen is the Museu do Amanhã on the Praça Mauá. Kids will love it and adults may learn some critical lessons from its immersive and interactive exhibits.

When I entered, a young man pulled me aside. Entrance free for me: “because I’m old?” my words not his. I am provided an electronic card, sort of a tap-to-pay to change exhibits into English. Brilliant! “Normal is always changing.”

The goal of this ultra-modern Museum of Tomorrow states: 

Experiment Science has three thematic axes: Phenomena in the World, Learning by Doing and Imagining Futures. The proposal is to present a set of interactive facilities that address physical, biological, chemical, and social phenomena. Thus, we approach some scientific concepts in a playful way, guided by curiosity, charm, and the permanent search for knowledge…Here science and experience connect with action to sharpen the senses and think about the world and our relationship with it!

To move through the museum, translate the displays, play the games, and watch the big-screen presentations represents an amazing learning experience. Throughout, lessons and displays emphasizes biodiversity, connectivity, and our ecological impact on the future. 

The future is not finished and done.”

Sound Bite display allowed me to listen to my bones! I swear they sounded like whiny, barking dogs!!!

Sound Bite display allowed me to listen to my bones! I swear they sounded like whiny, barking dogs!!! My visit resembles a passage through “future shock.” They ask: Where are we heading? I played  Ecological Footprint and failed miserably. Challenging Human Game of Tomorrow, I let humanity down. At Civilization’s Game I pretty much helped destroy the planet by 2050. So, I surmise the future doesn’t look good. 

Sugarloaf and Corcovado Mountain with Christ the Redeemer 

These iconic sites overlooking Rio and its bays represent required stops for tourists. They take more time to reach than to explore and snap the ubiquitous photos. Both sites are crowded, crowded, crowded! Both are terribly commercial. If unlucky, the clouds may be in and you’ll see nothing.

Sugarloaf and Guanabara Bay from Corcovado Mountain (left)

Once “been there, done that” soothe yourself with a quiet walk in a park and a cold cerveja. 

21 miles across Rio

Aching feet and so many steps earned

Strolling the streets of Rio is a mix of modern noise and bustle contrasted with colonial architecture reflecting the long history of the city. Urban art, architecture and history exist throughout the city. With a plethora of cafes from which to choose, delicious nourishment can be easily found. And, there is always the opportunity to sample a cold local draft and enjoy the views. All this served at prices not seen in California for decades.

I end my trip and my visit in Rio much as I began a month ago by enjoying a large dish of garlic shrimp and a cool gin and tonic. An Uber takes me to Galeão International for a late 9 pm departure and my 21 hour journey home. 

Yes, the rewards have been worth the effort in getting here. 

 


Pat

Retired. Have time for the things I love: travel, my cat, reading, good food, travel, genealogy, walking, and of course travel.