Algeria 

Between Warm Welcome and Wary Watchfulness 

Notes from a a Land of Generosity That Never Quite Looks Away

Lessons learned by travelers: one needs time in any country to understand and appreciate its history, culture, diversity and idiosyncrasies or peccadillos. I admit, I knew practically nothing about Algeria before my arrival. After 15 days, I feel I have scratched its surface. 

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Forced Kick-Back in Algiers

12 April 2026

We arrive at the Houari Boumediene International Airport and use a concrete walkway to our hotel.

We stay at the Hyatt Regency Algiers Airport so no great hardship. Large, modern and luxurious, we eschew the beautiful indoor pool and fitness room. Instead, many of our group meet in the lounge for big cold beers!

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Oran, Algeria

10 April 2026

It’s a cool, pleasant but hazy day. I grab a cup of Nescafé, sit on the terrace overlooking date palms and dunes listening to doves cooing in the trees. Cooing good morning or good riddance?

The good news – we fly to our next destination: Oran. This eliminates a 600-mile drive and replaces it with a fast 5 miles to the Timimoun Airport. I feel relief. Possibly, I have been driven through enough Saharan landscape during the last couple years.

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Timimoun and the Ighzer Plateau

9 April 2026

The day begins slowly, air is still relatively cool. We enjoy a coffee on our terrace overlooking the palm groves and dunes. Unfortunately, the coffee is Nescafé and the view is marred by haze and dust.

However, it is new day and we will explore the region. It will be a hot day in the Red Oasis. Sort of reminds me of a typical summer in Bakersfield.

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Miles of Sahara to Timimoun

8 April 2026

Today is what I call a kickback day. Nothing like sitting in a bus for hours. How can I enjoy 8 hours thru desert? Because my guide takes care of all the arrangements. And he promised an “enchanting oasis town” at the end of our drive.

Also, our itinerary says “surrounded by endless desert vistas and charming settlements, showing the timeless beauty and serenity.”

I just have coffee in my room. Gabrielle and I hop in the bus. In the memorable words of Stanley Tucci’s character Nigel, “Alright everyone, gird your loins!

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M’zab Valley, Ghardaïa, Algeria

7 April 2026

We begin Day 25 of our trip, which becomes the time my digestive system officially files a formal complaint. Days filled with another heroic breakfast followed by a substantial lunch. Then, because restraint seems apparently forbidden—an even larger dinner.

Few hotel rooms provide a hot water pot. Offerings unfailingly comes as a lineup of teas. None of which answer my increasingly desperate call for coffee. As a committed tea-avoider, I find myself longing for something a little less… teaish. I genuinely enjoy the food but at this point my stomach and I negotiate terms. 

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Ghardaïa and M’Zab Valley 

6 April 2026

The M’Zab Valley is a striking and historically significant region, a UNESCO World Heritage site recognized for its unique combination of geography, architecture, and social organization. There consists a series of five towns, or ksour, in the oasis—Ghardaïa, Béni Isguen, Melika, Bou Noura, and El Atteuf. The valley is also famous for its palm groves, date production, and ingenious water management systems, including foggaras.

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