31 March 2025 

When March came, my weather at home was stormy, cold and wet. I suppose I could say the month entered like a California Mountain Lion. Today, here in Tanger, March is exiting like a lamb.

BRITON RIVIÈRE, UNA AND LION

Many theories attempt to explain the proverb “In like a lion, out like a lamb.” In Tanger, perhaps its weather doesn’t ever quite reached the lion stage — perhaps it is more à-propos to say it enters like a surly cat. Regardless of how they say the proverb in Morocco, March exits like a lamb with bright clear and sunny skies foretelling of a high UV Index.

Departure from Tanger

We hired Mostafa to drive us to the Tanger Villa Train Station. Train tickets were easily purchased online. A second-class passage cost $49. We depart Tanger, on the minute at 12:00, aboard the modern, bullet train to Casablanca. 

Mostafa delivering his charges to Tanger Ville Train

Mostafa greets us at our hotel in his finest clothes. His family awaits at home where prayers and celebrations will take place throughout the day. We are happy to have shared time with him. 

A Final Story by Mostafa

Moroccans are preparing for the early June celebration of Eid Al-Adha, the annual “feast of sacrifice.” During this holiday, Muslims slaughter livestock to honor a passage from the Quran in which the prophet Ibrahim prepared to sacrifice his son as an act of obedience to God. However, God intervened and replaced the child with a sheep.

Mostafa explained that the past winter was dry, leading to expensive lamb prices, which could now cost a month’s wages. The preferred domestic sheep are now priced higher than many households can afford, especially considering that the country’s minimum monthly wage remains 3,000 Moroccan dirhams ($300).

Richest king in Africa and the fifth wealthiest monarch in the world? Mostafa says most people happy with the King.

In response to this crisis, King Mohammed VI has called on citizens to forgo purchasing sheep for sacrifice this year. The decision comes amid record inflation and the devastating effects of climate change, with a seven-year drought severely impacting the country’s livestock and driving sheep prices beyond the reach of working-class families. This marks the first time in 29 years that Morocco has asked its citizens to forgo the Eid Al-Adha sacrifice. 

The sheep live a few more months. 

Al Boraq – Morocco’s Bullet Train

According to the railway, this Moroccan train, the Al Boraq, operates at speeds of up to 199 miles per hour speeding down the country’s northwest scenic coast between Tanger and Kenitra. It represents one of the most advanced high-speed train networks in the world and the journey features one of Africa’s longest viaducts.

This is Africa’s first high-speed train, inaugurated  in 2018. Possible speeds takes it the 200+ miles into Casablanca in little more than two hours. The train is clean, okay I avoid the toilets on all trains, and offers a comfortable second-class seat, refreshments, and supposedly WiFi tho I don’t see it. Every seat is filled. 

Ramadan 2025

We visit Morocco during Ramadan, the holy month of fasting for Muslims. Every country in the Islamic world observes the fast of Ramadan, held between dawn and dusk for one month of the Islamic year. Based on the lunar calendar, the dates in 2025 are from 1st March – 1st April.  

During this time Muslims fast during daylight hours. The fast is broken after sunset with a meal of sweets and dates. Non-tourist eating places tend to be closed until dusk; meals may be served in reverse, like the cafe on the corniche, where we found breakfast served at 8 pm. Thankfully, we tourists who are not Muslims are not expected to observe the fast. We do need to plan our meals if dining outside our hotel. 

Ramadan is an interesting time to visit but one must prepare to adapt to the Muslim time frame. I have not noticed a lessening of tourist activities; dining and alcohol consumption are the most affected. Shops tend to open later in the mornings, after 9.30am, and might close earlier than normal though we didn’t see this last night as we walked to Petit Socco.

Transiting through the train station we find most all businesses closed. We were able to purchase water at Starbucks. Also, Macdonald’s opened their doors. Capitalism won out over celebrations. 

Unlike many Muslim countries during Ramadan, Morocco sees little to no change during this time. Larger bars and cafés remain open as usual and continue to serve food and some alcohol is available.

A Smooth Ride

The Al Boraq consistently glides along its tracks at speeds over 100 mph. Lush farm land whizzes past the window; orchards, vegetables, cattle, goats and sheep pass in a blur. These fields produce those gorgeous big strawberries seen in the markets. 

Our top speed reached 318 kph – just over 197.5 mph. The ride is quiet. Not a clanging crossing-bell to be heard.

We leave on the minute, making two brief stops of 3 in Kenitra and 5 minutes Rabat. We arrive into Casablanca Voyageurs exactly on time. 

Eid al-Fitr

We arrive in Casablanca on Eid al-Fitr. The end of Ramadan is celebrated by the Festival of the Breaking of the Fast – Eid al-Fitr. Celebrations last three days. Flags fly, the Medinas are empty, everyone is in a celebratory mood. Mostafa was so kind to leave his family for an hour just to take us to the train station. 

Exiting the clean, quiet, modern Casablanca VoyageursTrain Station, a taxi driver approaches. We communicate in English and for 90 Dirham he drives us to our hotel, Marriott near the port area. Quick and easy. Streets are nearly empty, stores closed. Most restaurants remain closed during daylight hours during Ramadan.

We All Celebrate Sans Alcohol

The Marriott proves to be a good choice for kicking back. Everywhere families celebrate the end of Ramadan. While we had a high buffet for lunch, it co ti it’s ti be water and cola zeros for fluids. Bars are closed, alcohol is not being served. 

I think everyone is looking forward to Eid al-Fitr. Some more than others. 

The sighting of the Shawwal crescent officially signals the end of Ramadan and the start of Eid Al Fitr.

Ramadan 2025 began for most Muslims on the evening of Friday, February 28, and will conclude in Morocco this evening, Monday, March 31. The exact dates depend on the sighting of the moon, which determines the Islamic calendar.

Happily, on Monday, March 31, the Islamic Ministry announced that religious authorities had confirmed the sighting of the crescent moon for the month of Shawwal, officially marking the end of Ramadan. 

Sunset on this day in Casablanca occurs at 6:50 PM. I suspect I won’t be the only one celebrating at  6:51.


Mostafa was a considerate and knowledgeable driver with very good English skills. We highly recommend him. +212 665-466085


Pat

Retired. Have time for the things I love: travel, my cat, reading, good food, travel, genealogy, walking, and of course travel.