2-3 April 2025
Fez/Fès, the oldest of Morocco’s imperial cities, becomes the most impressive. The medieval city was founded in 789 BCE by Idris I, the first ruler of the Idrisid dynasty. His son, Idris II, expanded the city in 808 BCE, turning it into a major political, religious, and cultural center of Morocco.
Over the centuries, Fès flourished with waves of Arab, Andalusian, and Berber influences, making it the rich and diverse city it is today. Locals regard Fès as the religious capital of Morocco. Serving as the spiritual and intellectual heart of the country, the city has earned designation as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Can’t Miss Another Medina
We wander through the medieval Fès el-Bali (Old Medina). Thankfully, Samir knows his way through over 9,000 narrow, winding alleys lined with bustling souks, traditional craft workshops, restaurants, and historic mosques – all enclosed within towering ancient stone walls.
As we navigate this challenge, the sights, sounds, and scents of the Moroccan souks surround us. The din of traders and shoppers becomes a constant hum or voices. Thankfully, no cars allowed. However, I avoid numerous handcarts and lots of cats.
In spite of the noise and bustle, I enjoy the experience of the medina. Intricate tilework, grand and colorful doors, and wooden carvings represent a step back in time. Photo opportunities abound. With a guide, I suffer less hassle.
Artisan shops sell Moroccan pottery, brass lanterns, handwoven textile and endless bric-à-brac. Tempting street food abounds from sweet-savory pastillas made with pigeon to snails in spicy broth. Yes, both are tempting to me; no, unfortunately, we don’t pause to taste.
Bab Boujloud: The Grand Gateway to Fes
Bab BouJeloud, an ornate gateway, leads into the heart of the Medina. Built in 1913 by the French, today it serves as a grand entrance. The original gate was a modest, utilitarian gate, possibly dating back to the 12th century. Unlike today’s gate, its passage was set at an angle to improve defense and control access. The remains of this original gate still lies beside the current monumental entrance.
The Bab Bou Jeloud leads to the Qarawiyyin Mosque and University, the world’s oldest continuously operating university. Scholars and philosophers from around the world once gathered there to exchange knowledge and ideas.
Ornamental gates and colorful traditional tiles brightened the narrow lanes. Polychrome tiles of intricate arabesque and traditional Moroccan geometric patterns adorn facades. Striking blue and greenish tiles reflect the colors traditionally associated with Fès. Colors are everywhere.
The narrow, busy alleys of Fès’ Medina appear to be what I imagined a true Medina to be. However, there are hundreds of other tourists squeezing through the lanes between sellers and shoppers. Because we are with Samir, we experience few hassles or wares shoved in our faces. But we do have three “shopping opportunities” under the guise of learning about traditional Moroccan craftsmanship.
Leather from the Belly of the Camel
A very colorful stop was the tannery. Tanneries in Fès represent some of the most famous in the world, especially the Chouara Tannery, which has been operating since the 11th century. These tanneries are a striking sight, with large stone vats filled with vibrant dyes and pungent natural substances used to treat animal hides. Men stomp around like Lucille Ball at an Italian grape mashing.
Among the strong chemical smells (they offer mint leaves for delicate noses), an enthusiastic salesman explains the process used to create their leather products.
Visually, the tannery is stunning, with its honeycomb of vats filled with earthy and bright colors. The smell is strong, due to the chemicals used. Workers manually process everything, using centuries-old techniques passed down through generations.
The hides come from cows, sheep, goats and camels. First, hides soak in vats containing a mixture of cow urine, quicklime, salt, and pigeon droppings to soften and clean them. Hard to believe pigeon crap and cow piss would clean anything, let alone encourage me to wear it.
Next comes the scraping when workers scrape off excess hair, fat and flesh. I remember doing the same thing as a kid when we cleaned tripe (cow’s stomach) before grinding it up for mink food. Have hated the smell of tripe ever since.
After scraping, hides move on to the dyeing stage. Natural dyes – such as poppy (red), saffron (yellow), and indigo (blue) – color the leather in huge circular vats. Last, drying and finishing occurs. Hides spread on rooftops to dry in the sun. After drying, the leather is softened with oils.
From this comes your ottomans, handbags, wallets, shoes and jackets. The gorgeous jackets are made from the belly of the camel. As I look around the room containing hundreds of beautiful jackets, I realize this represents lots of dead camels.
What follows is the art of the sell of their “special, only available here, we ship” products.
What Would PETA Say?
Is this process a little less PETA objectionable than the use of fur? At least, I assume, the slaughtered animals are used as food for humans (or our pets?). However, many animals suffer inhumane conditions before being slaughtered. Some tanning processes use chromium, formaldehyde and arsenic, none of which are good for our environment.
Stella McCartney became one of the first luxury brands to go completely leather-free. PETA suggests using vegan leather alternatives like mushroom, apple or cactus leather. Now, that would be a cooperative I would love to tour.
But Wait – There’s More
We are taken into three more crafts factories. The pottery factory does pottery, the tile factory does tile, and the textile factory does weaving. Explanation of manufacturing process followed by sales pitch sums it up. Take home or ship, they have a special price for dishes, cups, bowls, tile fountains, tables, scarves for the desert. “We take credit cards.”
Pottery Factory Survival 101
When traveling, one can hardly sling a chicken without hitting a textile or pottery factory. After years of travel, I still fail to find a way to escape the endless parade of “must-see” artisan stops. I could protest, but I cannot hide. I am whisked inside, past a grinning guide who could probably sell sand in the Sahara. My tour guide wisely remains outside, drinking his expresso.
Inside, the air is thick with clay dust, and before I know it, a cup of dreaded mint tea in hand, I am politely nodding along to an enthusiastic demonstration of “ancient techniques,” which look suspiciously similar to the last three countries I visited. A potter shapes a lump of clay on a wheel with head-spinning precision, while another casually chisels intricate designs.
Then comes the Grand Tour of the Showroom, also known as The Point of No Return. Shelves stacked to the ceiling groan under the weight of countless tagines, plates, and vases – all pretty, all fragile, and all apparently a “special price just for me.” My polite refusals are met with assurances “We ship,” exaggerated heartbreak, and pointers on home design. We are led, pushed along, deeper and deeper within the maze of rooms all stacked with items, my salesperson in disbelief that I can continue to deny any need for a purchase.
Never acquiring a taste for mint tea, I have learned to be strong. I manage to escape into the “cheap room” as a passage of last resort. I still don’t buy anything.
Jewish Quarter – the Mellah Quarter
Locals call Fès’ Jewish quarter the Mellah. It occupies a place in the Fès el-Jdid section of the city, near the Royal Palace. Historians recognize it as the oldest quarter designated for Moroccans of the Jewish faith, with its origins dating back to 1438. The name, derived from the Arabic word for “salt,” reflects its historical roots. The sultan established this walled quarter to protect the growing Sephardic Jewish population after their expulsion from Andalusia (Spain).
Historically, Morocco treated its Jewish population as a protected minority, allowing them to live within their own designated mellahs. Generally, they experienced toleration within society, though with restrictions on certain activities and sometimes facing periods of discrimination depending on the ruling Sultan.
Now emptied of its original population (some 230k immigrated to Israel after 1945), the Mellah is being extensively renovated and enhanced in line with His Majesty Mohammed VI’s commitment to preserving the Hebraic component of the national identity.
Much of the distinctive architecture, including wrought iron balconies and windows, highlight its grandest homes. Today, the Mellah no longer retains a significant Jewish population. However, some important Jewish monuments and landmarks remain.
The Royal Palace of Fès (Dar al-Makhzen)
The Royal Palace of Fès, or Dar al-Makhzen, represents the official residence of the King of Morocco while in Fès. It was originally built in 1276 by Marinid Sultan Abu Yusuf Ya’qub as part of the Fès el-Jdid royal citadel. While its foundations date back to the Marinid era, most of the current structure reflects modifications from the ‘Alawi dynasty (17th–20th centuries).
Currently, these expansions over time now cover almost 200 acres. (This is about the same size as the Forbidden City in Beijing.) The palace complex is massive.
All one can see, because of high walls surrounding the entire complex, are the ornate 20th-century gates at Place des Alaouites near the Jewish Quarter.
Historically, the palace existed separately from the old city due to the rulers’ cautious approach toward the city’s independent-minded population.
Fès or Fez
Again, how a visitor refers to Fès is according to choice. Both Fès and Fez are correct spellings, but Fès is the preferred spelling in Morocco. Fez represents the older, more Anglicized version. If you’re referring to the city in Morocco, Fès becomes the more accurate choice. (Spell Check will work with both but insists Fès is wrong.)
So Fès it is.
Fès seems an intense but fascinating city, best for travelers who enjoy history, culture, and local experiences. It can be overwhelming due to its crowded, labyrinth-like medina. Having our guide helps us navigate the alleyways with ease.
I like Fès’ Medina. I seem to be judging them by:
- Amount of in-your-face salesmanship
- Cleanliness and unpleasant smells
- Condition of their cats
All in all, Fès ranks well. The maze of alleys may be daunting, but wandering its streets and admiring its architecture and history makes it worth while.
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