Cairo Egypt – I Have Returned

16 March 2026

July 10 1981

I arrive on the African Continent. Cairo is a shock to my senses. Flying in, I could see the Nile Delta, beautiful green expanse becoming browner as we came to Cairo. What seemed longest runway in the world. In long drive from airport, one sees everything. The roads are packed with close relatives to Israeli bus drivers (I just arrived from Israel and their drivers are nuts.) Taxis honk and zoom in and out of traffic. Two kinds of drivers and pedestrians here: agile and dead. No such thing as a traffic lane. 

Sand cliffs and skyline of mosques beautiful. Close by live people in filth. Countless on the streets, tattered clothes, layer on layer or in nightshirt (galabiya). Smells linger of dumps and poverty. Crowded and noisy, but hotel in Giza seems in the middle of town. Can’t see pyramids from balcony. Guards everywhere, with guns and bayonets, hard helmets. Pictures of Sadat everywhere.

But a feeling, I can’t trust anyone here. However, I know I must venture out. At 5:35 the call to prayer from mosque across the street, over speakers but louder than traffic. Some English TV like House on the Prairie and Muppets. There is an Egyptian musical ala Carmen Miranda without the apples on her head. No commercials. Had good dinner in hotel and met hotel employees American Tony and Brit Andy for lots of good laughs and info on Cairo. 

2026

When I visited Cairo in 1981, I represented a fairly naïve solo traveler. I had come from traveling in Greece and two weeks around Israel. Those were the days I could fly to Cairo from Israel but not enter Israel from Egypt. My travel became quite an experience, rather seared into my memory. Returning to Cairo 45 years later, much older and wiser, I am positive the pyramids and its sphinx haven’t changed an iota. Can I say the same for Cairo?

Preparation and Tips

In preparation for visiting Cairo, I joined FB’s Egypt Travel Tips. I read a number of good tips and the photos are beautiful, but I am dismayed by the many nasty replies. While well-meaning and seeking information, concerns about overpaying for an hour carriage ride at 200 EGP (about 4$), drew scorn and ridicule. Probably deserved because at about $4, someone flying to Egypt from the US should hardly participate in hard bargaining and resentment over a $4 carriage ride.

Or paying $6 for a 3-hour taxi. Even worse, rules for tipping, or baksheesh, become a labyrinth of confusion and indecision. And the same question asked over and over drove me to question the intelligence of the group.

The second biggest question following “how much should I pay” becomes “Is it safe?” One person heard the rumor that his children would be in danger because of the dogs and cats with rabies and worse. Big sigh.

The overwhelming response to one’s safety is yes, no problems for women traveling alone. I am not saying this ignores the truth. However, what is not being described is the constant hassle from men and the forever-hands-out for baksheesh. It is all part of the culture, but an exhausting part. A guide, and sadly,a tall local male guide, swiftly cuts thru all that annoyance.

Making the Experience Better

There are many changes in both myself and my method of travel. I certainly understand different cultures better. And, while I stayed in pretty nice hotels in 1981, I have continued to upgrade my experiences in the last 45 years. Better flights, better hotels, better food. Better planning means better experiences.

Also, internet, and the Egypt travel group, better informed me. Friends who recently traveled in Cairo recommended a private guide. I took all their good advice to heart (except the guy worried about his kids contracting rabies). Hired a guide, have current technology, more cash, and a whole lot more knowledge. All this, hopefully, will make for a better experience. 

Airport to Hotel

Gabrielle quickly found the bank for the purchase of our Visas, $30 cash. From there, it took several minutes to pass immigration and customs via the slowest agent in Cairo. We both have carry-on so no waiting, no worries.

Reading the travel group’s endless disagreements and pros and cons, I spent a lot of time deciding how to travel between the airport and our hotel. Uber had comments ranging from disastrous to the best. Also recommended was indrive but talked of negotiating price; definitely NOT what I want to do.

Taxi, for me, also represents a NO-brainer. Then there was the hotel service which was so ridiculously priced I almost choked: I was referred to a private company and quoted $87 for the two of us. A glass of champagne was not included. I asked our guide to meet us. Worked perfectly.

Traffic into downtown Cairo seemed total chaos. Nothing has changed since 1981 except a whole lot more cars, honking, dents and resulting smog. And truthfully, their honking has a long way to go to best India. While creeping and expertly maneuvering along, I study Egyptian license plates.

We arrived at our hotel, the Ramses Hilton, overlooking the Nile and Cairo Tower. High security, car trunk checked, bag scanned and airport-style checks. Welcome! This is normal — don’t worry.

Overnight Cairo – Ramses Hilton

Check-in follows by an admiration of our view from the 20th floor overlooking the pool and the Nile. Cairo Tower is to the right. Streams of cars move below. Traffic drowns out the call to prayer as Ramadan officially ends for the day.