20 March 2026
May your morning be as radiant as a blooming flower.
EgyptAir
EgyptAir blessed us to have a good day as it transported Gabrielle and I from Cairo. We return to Tunis. The plane departs slightly late, allowing for the crew’s Call to Prayer on this auspicious holiday of Eid Al-Fitr.
We arrive into the Carthage-Tunis Airport on Fête de l’Indépendance. March 20 marked the end of 75 years of French protectorate rule in 1956. We celebrate Tunisian Independence Day!
Brilliant Tunisian flags fly beneath a bright blue sky. The air is clear and clean, a very welcome change after the smog of Cairo.
Everything runs smoothly as we speed thru customs and are met by Kamel, the guide for our ElderTreks tour. For the next few weeks, our lodging, meals, and activities will be the onus of someone else. It always seems a relief as I surrender myself to my one responsibility of each day: “What time am I to be on the bus?”
Tunisia – Small But Mighty
Tunisia ranks the smallest country in North Africa, about the size of Wisconsin. Indeed, you could fit about 2.5 Tunisias into California. Their terrain and culture are equally as diverse.
Tunisia’s Mediterranean shoreline boasts countless beaches, while in the southwest, the rolling ergs (dune fields) become the endless sands of the Sahara Desert. Close to the coast, cities overflow with souqs (markets), while ruins of Greco-Roman settlements abound. Far inland, oasis towns dot the desert where Bedouins and camel reside.
Travel Advisory – No Panic Needed
My State Department ranks the security in parts of Tunisia as Level 4: Do Not Travel – it advises to not travel within 10 miles of the border with Libya due to terrorism. Same goes for the Algerian border. Developments in Libya continue to affect the security situation along the Tunisian-Libyan border. It warns of bandits in the deserts bordering Lydia. Kidnappings happen.
I admit, I question someone who ignores this warning yet still books a tour here. But, later, they panicked over a Middle East travel advisory, involving territories over a thousand miles away on another continent and embroiled in a totally different political reality. For this, they cancel a trip to Tunisia.
Awarded a Nobel Peace Prize
Proudly displayed in Tunis’ Bardo Museum is an award that all Tunisians should be proud.
The 2015 Nobel Peace Prize was awarded to the Tunisian National Dialogue Quartet, composed of four civil society organizations (UGTT, UTICA, LTDH, and the Order of Lawyers), a group formed in 2013 when Tunisia was on the brink of civil war due to political assassinations and social unrest.
This group was awarded the Nobel for saving Tunisia’s democratic transition from collapse in 2013, acting as a crucial mediator between secular and Islamist political forces. While the prize was awarded to honor the democratic process, it also served as a major sign of support against the “dark forces” of extremism that staged attacks at the Bardo Museum in March 2015.
These negotiations represented Tunisia’s resilience and determination to live in a country of diversity, tolerance and peace. Says a lot about why one is welcome and should feel welcome in Tunisia.
Welcome Dinner
We arrive at the Radisson City Center, greeted by the one of the areas most famous personalities – Hannibal Barca.
The day is early so we enjoy our last moments of rest and free time. Reception points out there is a gym. My interest lies more in the lobby’s simple cafe/bar where a glass of chilled white wine appears.
Gabrielle and I meet and greet our small group of fellow travelers before dinner. Our guide, Kamel, gave us the preview trailer for the next 21 days through Tunisia and Algeria.
Here, we practice the art of cautious exuberance—smiling warmly while mentally cataloging 10 strangers we are about to see more of than some family members. Fellow adventurers or certified nuts? There always exists one who ultimately stress-tests the group’s collective patience. Who would be the most interesting? The most unbearable? More importantly, I always promise myself NOT to be the royal pain in the ass remembered long after the monuments fade.
During dinner, we swapped tidbits. Conversation, predictably, centered on travel—always travel. (Politics usually sneaks in later, once everyone feels safe.) ElderTrek groups represent seasoned travelers, and this one is no exception. Ages ranged from 27 to 82, with many proud ElderTrek veterans: 2 Canadians, 10 Americans from 4 states. All of us about to be educated about Tunisia and Algeria.
Tunis
I have visited Tunis on two occasions, 1982 and 2010, but never travelled much past the port and Carthage itself. Most memorable was my experience visiting the North Africa American Cemetery in Carthage. Buried there are the fighting American soldiers (and a handful of Canadians) who died in the campaign to take this region from General Rommel’s troops.
Also, residing around every street corner are the cats. The majority seem healthy and well-cared for. Some seem wise beyond their years.
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