Exploring Pest in 2019

5 June 2019

In the next 2 miles, I will pass six World Heritage Sites as we motor across the Chain Bridge to the banks of Pest and down Andrássy út which links Buda with the Városliget or City Park. Andrássy is a broad and elegant boulevard which dates to 1872 and lined with spectacular Neo-Renaissance architecture and ornate facades. Not only is the Chain Bridge a UNESCO site, but so are the banks of the Danube, and Andrássy út is the only street I am aware of that is recognized as a World Heritage Site. (more…)

Budapest – July 1995

I return to Budapest.

The last I visited Budapest was in the summer of 1995. It was a time of change as the Soviet Army had left the country just four years earlier. I arrived by ferry via the Danube from Vienna. My lodgings were in a friend’s “little communist efficiency apartment” surrounded by brutally ugly Soviet architecture and streets filled with Russian Ladas. But even then, I noted the many fast food places from Burger King to Dunkin’ Donuts to Pizza Hut. I diaried my experiences and, out of curiosity, I am interested to learn how Budapest, and this traveler, have changed. (more…)

Stately Ruins and Castles, Lush Gardens and Shallow Lakes

Magyarország. –  4 June 2019

A day trip in Magyarország (translate as Hungary) takes me east of Budapest to the small town of Zsámbék. Zsámbék has been inhabited since Paleolithic times when stone tools were first used. It has been home to Celtic, Roman and Avar peoples and is an archeologist’s dream. Churches have been built and destroyed in this city since 1180. King Matthias’ son had a fortress here in 1467. Turks and an 1764 earthquake laid the city and buildings to ruins. However, German settlers arrived after the Turks and rebuilt Zsámbék and its churches using the original stones of the ruined settlement. It is less the rebuilt settlement than the strikingly beautiful church ruins that capture my attention. (more…)

From National Parks to Palaces

Hortobágy National Park and Sissi’s Place  –  3 June 2019

There probably couldn’t be a better introduction to Hungary than visiting a national park with a nature-loving biologist. My destination is the Puszta region of northeastern Hungary and its lovely Hortobágy National Park.

Puszta is known for the presence of several endemic breeds of animals. Being a wide-open, relatively flat region known as the Great Plain, I hope to see something moving. The plain, famous for its Asiatic vegetation, is so unique in flora and fauna that it is recognized as a World Heritage Site. Hortobágy National Park is central to this region. (more…)

Kalotaszentkiraly to Hajduszoboszlo

Visiting Unpronounceable Villages in Romania and Hungary

2 June 2019

The sun rose twice this morning over the rocky peaks of Székelykő. The rain, for the moment, has moved north and blue sky with white clouds reign. The birds are as happy as I about this bright, sunny day. It is another one of those days when I visit places I can’t pronounce. No matter. The scenery will be spectacular, the people friendly, the food delicious, the beer refreshing and the destinations interesting. Tonight I sleep in Hungary.  (more…)

Rimetea – Where The Sun Rises Twice

31 May and 1 June 2019

Rimetea is located amid a dramatic setting of lush meadows, encircling mountains and rocky escarpments. My simple Transylvanian inn overlooks Székelykő, a sacred peak. It is said that here, the sun rises twice as it crawls across the eastern sky at the edge of the mountains. The birds chirp, the sun rises, a lonely dog howls in the distance, the rooster crows and another idyllic day in Romania begins. (more…)

Borgo Pass – Traveling In The Wake of Dracula

Our Return To Transylvania  –  30 May 2019

Today is what travelers on a tour call “kick-back” day. We face a long drive across the eastern Carpathains, over a few high passes, and through the Transylvanian Basin. Our destination is Torockoszetgyorgy, a town I couldn’t pronounce no matter how much alcohol I consumed. Our drive will be 200 miles of magnificent scenery, small villages, and 7 hours of rest and relaxation watching the Transylvania world go by. (more…)