TRIESTE – A CITY TO LOVE

Author James Joyce, past resident of Trieste

8 June – Trieste (aka Trst)

Arrived into the lovely port city of Trieste, just across the neck of the Istria Peninsula. What a difference a few miles make! The architecture is Hapsburg, the port is prosperous, sea breeze is cool, and streets are filled with activity. I walk about enjoying beautiful facades in the piazzas, climb the steep steps to the Castello di San Giusto, and then trudge back to one of many restaurants along the Canal Grande for a pasta dinner. (more…)

D’ANNUNZIO’S ITALIAN REGENCY OF CARNARO

Fiume or Rijeka – once a cruise destination

6 June – Rijeka Croatia AKA Fiume to the Italians

I start my day on “my bench” along Lake Bled. Mama duck and her 12 fuzz balls rest along the shore while two lusty swans create waves. They hiss at little helpless ducks yet squeak at each other. The crews are out practicing their rowing. I refrain from more photos of my gorgeous surroundings. Bled is idyllic and I hate to leave but Rijeka beckons – site of the first torpedo factory in the world. (more…)

LAKE BLED – DRACULA’S SUMMER HOME

Lake Bled

4 June – Lake Bled, Slovenia

Sunny and warm for my one hour bus ride north to scenic Lake Bled, known for its emerald green mountain lake with Bled Castle perched high above, all amidst the Julian Alps.

Bled was first mentioned in 1004, when it was awarded by Emperor Henry II to Bishop Albuin I of Brixen. (If you couldn’t be an Emperor it paid to be a Bishop.) Bled Castle followed by 1011. In 1274, Bled fell under the Habsburgs, lasting until 1919, except for a stint between 1809 and 1816 as one of the Napoleonic Illyrian Provinces. After the dissolution of Austria-Hungary in 1918, Bled came under the rule of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia and became a summer domicile of the ruling House of Karađorđević, a tradition that President Josip Broz Tito continued when he built his residence here in 1947. Tito knew a good view when he saw one. (more…)

SLOVENIA – LJUBLJANA AND ŠKOFJA LOKA

Ljubljana Dragon

1 June – Ljubljana, Capital of Slovenia Ljubljana is said to be founded by the Greek hero Jason, who stole the Golden Fleece and along with his Argonauts sailed the Argos across the Black Sea and up the Danube and Sava. In transit they stopped at the Ljubljana Marshes where Jason slew the Dragon. Thus, the Ljubljana Dragon depicted on the coat of arms. Like Jason, I am happy to be here. (more…)

ZAGREB AND PLITVICE LAKES CROATIA

Mary Ann and Roland, Plitvice Lakes National Park

30 May – Zagreb Croatia

I bus thru northeastern Serbia, its breadbasket. Good highways, flat farmland and lovely wild flowers of red poppy, lupine, yellow cornflowers and thistle.

Because of its ragged horseshoe shape, we reenter Croatia, requiring us to once again get off the bus and individually go thru customs. Shaky relations between these two countries – a continuation of East verses West? (more…)

APPROACHING THE AGGRESSOR

“Don’t want NATO” around Belgrade

27 May  – Beograd aka Belgrade Serbia

Driving thru the Dinaric Alps, the fifth most rugged and mountainous area of Europe – one reason Slavs are so tough. The Dinarides extend for 401 miles along the coast of the Adriatic and stomp thru every Balkan country with its highest peak of 8839′ in Albania. Over the centuries many armies fought within these mountains, their isolation and ruggedness providing refuge for those hardy enough to survive them. The history of centuries can be told as we drive thru passes, past villages and over rivers. (more…)

BiH – BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA – Two Names One Rugged Country

Rugged landscape of BiH

25 May – Mostar and Sarajevo – Tito’s official birthday

Left sunny Adriatic to enter the Dinaric Alps. Only 8 % of land is below 300′ as I weave through canyons amid mountain peaks between 2000-6000′. Every plot of flat land has a garden or grape vines. What a landscape in which to fight gorilla wars!  Tito marched thru these mountains fighting the Nazis, Ustaše, Chetniks, and Italians with little more than rifles and horses. Here, respect remains high for the partisans. Landscape is rugged and daunting. Bosnia is mountainous primeval forest while Herzegovina coast was denuded of forests used for shipping and naval lumber by Turks and Venetians. Goggle Maps only shows a big white blank dotted with major cities.  (more…)