New country, new breakfast. While still centered around strong coffee, breakfast appears heavily influenced by the French, traditions left behind when the they left Algeria in 1962.
Morning meal is a tasty mix of sweet and savory – think coffee, breads, and pastries. Lots of breads line the tables, including traditional semolina-based bread, eaten with butter, honey, jam, olive oil, or cheese. I do taste the sfenj, a light but chewy fried doughnut dusted with sugar and dipped in honey. Something I must try later is baghrir, a semolina pancake soaked in honey and butter. However, this morning I enjoy my usual: yogurt and nuts.
The weather is definitely not what I expected. The morning temperature reaches a cool 56°F under cloudy skies and with very brisk winds of 23mph. Only bearable with 3 layers of long-sleeve shirts, a windbreaker and scarf. Thankfully, no rain.
We begin our morning maneuvering Sfax to its historic Medina. Sfax is not pretty in any obvious way. It feels more like a working, industrial city. It’s Tunisia’s second-largest city and its main commercial port, so the rhythm becomes industrial and purposeful rather than historic and touristic.
However, Sfax isn’t without character. In the old city, its medina quarter represents one of the best preserved in Tunisia, walled and refreshingly free of souvenir gloss and pressure to buy a rug or copper pot.
Built by Aghlabid prince Abu Abbass Muhammad between 849 and 851, it shows its age but continues to serve the community. The Medina acts as home to about 115,000 residents and dominated by the Great Mosque.
Sfax Medina for whatever your needsOctopus is regional favorite as is a plethora of sea food
As we walk through the Medina, I’m told, to “soak in the vibrant atmosphere and rich history of this coastal town.” Having traveled a lot and visited dozens of medinas, I ask “sure, so what’s different?” At times like this, I sort of feel the guides are struggling to fill the day.
I hear the usual “welcome,” “where you from,” “my friend” but it’s friendly and less aggressive than in medinas I’ve been like Marrakech or Tunis. Venders quickly switch back to chatting with neighbors or scrolling their iPhones.
It feels more like merchants trying to make a living, not staging a performance. The displays of fish, vegetables, household wares, crafts and meats arranged artfully, creating lots of photo ops. Merchants smile and allow our guide to explain their wares.
On the Road Again
We continue our drive North. Today’s travel consists of about 150 miles with a couple interesting stops along the way. Though we drive close to the sea, the land remans flat and arid. Massive olive groves interspersed with date palms and almond orchards, plus a plethora of cactus, line the highway. Less trash lines the roads.
Beautiful drive alone eastern coastal region from Sfax to El Jem, Sousse to Hammamet
More farms and green fields begin to appear. Most of these farms utilize modern irrigation including drip systems, wadi dams and underground aquifers. Modern orchard management in these regions use a “sustained deficit irrigation,” meaning only enough water is provided to guarantee survival and quality. Cell towers keep us connected throughout our journey.
