29 March 2025
We depart Tanger. Today, we visit two cities of northern Morocco. Picked up at our hotel, we meet Mostafa, our driver, and begin to learn more about Morocco’s culture and history as we drive the scenic route southeast. Actually, I think it represents the only route.
It is early Saturday and streets are empty. Muslims celebrate Ramadan so many enjoy the after sunset hours when they can eat, drink and smoke again. Most are sleeping in.
Driving and drivers appear sane and polite. They wave and honk. I think the honk means “thank you for not hitting me with your car.” I am like Mostafa’s calm demeanor and consideration on the road. At times we were seriously squeezed among cars but Mostafa kept his gentle karma.
Tranquil Moroccan Countryside
Leaving the port area behind, we climb into the hills, forests and low mountains of this region. Often, donkey carts appear laden with goods; a man works his field as his horse pulls the plow. The hills are green and I see olive trees. And, of course, there are the ubiquitous eucalyptus.
Mostafa talks of the King of Morocco, they like him, and the economy. I see petrol is 11,10 per litre; this would be approximately $4.20 per gallon. The average person earns about $350 a month. I am struck by the thought: how does Mustafa view this American? My hotel room for three days is equivalent to a month of his wages.
Chefchaouen – Morocco’s Blue Pearl
Though blue is not my favorite color, when I saw a photo of this city, I agreed with my niece that we had to visit. Driving another hour south from Tétouan, we arrive in the beautiful, sparkling blue city of Chefchaouen.
Nestled at the foot of the Rif Mountains, Chefchaouen enjoys panoramic views of green valleys and rugged peaks. But it is not for views that we visit this magical city, it is for the color – the color blue. Within Chefchaouen you will find every shade of blue painting the streets, walls, and doorways, creating a dreamlike atmosphere.
Known as the “Blue Pearl of Morocco,” this town feels like a living postcard, with a serene ambiance, vibrant culture, and mountain backdrop. This city offers the enjoyment of just wandering its streets trying to capture its unique beauty.
Chefchaouen was founded in 1471 as a defensive outpost against Portuguese invasions. Its expansion came two decades later with the arrival of Muslim and Jewish refugees fleeing forced conversion in Granada, Spain. These newcomers shaped the town’s architecture, introducing whitewashed houses, courtyards, and citrus trees (now with sweet-smelling blossoms), giving Chefchaouen a distinct European influence.
A Sea of Blue
The origins of Chefchaouen’s iconic blue color remain open for debate. One story credits Sephardic Jews, who painted buildings blue to symbolize the sky and divine presence. Another version ties it to Jewish refugees fleeing Nazi persecution, while a third theory suggests the blue was meant to repel mosquitoes and prevent malaria. Regardless of its origins, the town’s signature hue continues to enchant visitors today.
The moment you step into Chefchaouen’s medina, you are surrounded by an endless palette of sky blues, deep indigos, and soft pastels. The cobblestone streets wind like sparkling blue rivers, leading you through arched alleyways, flower-filled courtyards, and charming squares where locals sip their mint tea. Lots of brick, vibrant pots, tiles and iron work decorate the homes and businesses.
However, the main observation on arrival is the cats. Lots and lots of cats. Many young kittens lay about, which means there is no neutering program. Some like pretty mangy. There also are stray dogs lying everywhere.
The Kasbah
Built in the 15th century by Moulay Ali Ben Rachid, the Kasbah was a fortress designed to defend the town against Portuguese invaders (just a stone’s throw in nautical terms of the day, about 500 miles a way).
It features high walls, lush gardens with blooming orange trees and fountains, in an Andalusian-style courtyard. Perfect spot for BFF ashes. Inside, we found the Ethnographic Museum, which showcased traditional Moroccan artifacts, musical instruments, ancient weapons, and historical documents. No English.
The Kasbah also once served as a prison. We explored old prison cells, which offered a glimpse into the fort’s darker history. Most prisoners probably never again saw the sun.
Climbing the Kasbah’s watchtower offers stunning panoramic views over the blue city. It’s the best spot for a bird’s-eye perspective of the city and nearby Rif Mountains.
Plaza Uta el-Hammam
This Plaza represents the heart of Chefchaouen. The lively square is surrounded by historic buildings, including the Kasbah and the Grand Mosque. It has long been a gathering place for locals and travelers alike. It is also filled with families of cats any one of which will join you at a cafe.
The Grand Mosque or Jamaa El Kebir, built in the 15th century by Moulay Ali Ben Rachid, overlooks the Plaza and is recognizable by its unique octagonal minaret, inspired by Andalusian architecture. Non-Muslims cannot enter.
We ate in the square across from the Kasbah and Mosque. I enjoyed a delicious tagine of roast goat with prunes. Gabrielle had beef with raisins. The cat enjoyed all my goat little-bits. No alcohol in sight.
Tétouan – The White Dove
Nestled between the Rif Mountains and the Mediterranean Sea, Tétouan seems not a typical destination for tourists. It lies along the Martil Valley and represents one of two major Moroccan ports on the Mediterranean. The port sits a few miles south of the Strait of Gibraltar and about 37 miles from Tanger. Seemed a shame to miss this city as it was on the route back to Tanger.Saturday Market
Known as the “White Dove” for its dazzling white-washed buildings, Tétouan offers a blend of Andalusian, Moroccan, and Berber influences, making it a cultural treasure.
The city played a crucial role in Mediterranean history, serving as a cultural and strategic crossroads for centuries. Its significance stems from its Andalusian heritage, strategic location, and influence during the Spanish protectorate.
Saturday Market
The population of the city counts about 430k. We depart our car at Place Moulay El Mehdi and walk down Av. Mohamed V into the jaws of Hell. The plaza is a swarm of activity and shoppers. At least 50,000 of those residents fill the streets between our car and the Palace. So, yes this may be an exaggeration, but not much!
Today is Saturday – market day. Everyone in the vicinity of 20 miles either sells something or buys something. Except us.
Goods are hard to see past the swarms of bodies but I suspect I could find at least 50 shoe salesmen selling the same shoes. Offerings for sale run the gamut from clothes to home decor, from food to sweets with scores of bees flying about. No alcohol seen.
We find a quieter street, all relative to the main plaza, and manage to escape the bumping, shoving and touch football of the hoards. We both agree this is most unpleasant. There is little opportunity to enjoy our surroundings. The cats and dogs of Chefchaouen are absent. Too smart to come here on market day?
Diverse Cultures
During the Spanish protectorate, lasting from 1912 to 1956, Tétouan became the capital of Spanish Morocco, influencing its urban planning, language, and architecture. This left a lasting Spanish cultural imprint. The city’s Spanish Quarter features wider grand avenues and elegant plazas, which would be appreciate right now.
Tétouan also played a role in Morocco’s independence movement, with nationalist activities emerging against Spanish rule. In 1956, it was reintegrated into Morocco after independence.
Another quarter of diversity, the historic Jewish quarter reflects the city’s Sephardic Jewish heritage. Tétouan became a refuge for Jewish families expelled from Spain in the 15th century by Ferdinand and Isabella. Walking through its labyrinth of streets, a mix of Andalusian and Moroccan influences become apparent: narrow alleyways, whitewashed buildings, and balconies with intricate ironwork.
After the Reconquista in 1492, when Spain’s King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella expelled Muslims and Jews, many Andalusian, refugees settled in Tétouan. They rebuilt the city, shaping its unique Moorish-Spanish identity, seen in its architecture, crafts, and traditions.
Tétouan became a major center of Andalusian culture in North Africa. All best seen any day but Saturday during market.
Medina and Place Hassan II
King’s Palace in PlaceHassan II, market and Saturday shoppers everywhere enjoying the sun and gossip.
Tétouan’s medina, we are told, is one of the most authentic and well-preserved in Morocco, earning it UNESCO World Heritage status. I read that Tétouan’s Medina was quieter and less touristy than the bustling medinas of Marrakeah or Fes. I find that impossible to believe or, if true, I have no desire to visit medians elsewhere.
Skilled traders fill the alleys and traditional souks, yet, to my relief, there was no hassle. We appeared to be the only tourists around, and I certainly felt like the only blonde for miles. Still, we wandered through undisturbed by salesmen. In fact, I felt hardly noticed.
Tetouan’s proximity to the Mediterranean made it a key center for commerce and diplomacy. The city thrived as a link between Morocco, Spain, and the Ottoman Empire, fostering trade in textiles, ceramics, and spices.
Located at Place Hassan II, pretty much the center of market activity, the Moorish-Spanish royal Hassan Palace is an iconic landmark. While you can’t enter, the grand square and surrounding architecture are worth admiring, above the heads of shouting, milling, gossiping and buying multitudes.
Shamefully, all the activity was too much. Beaten but unbruised, we called Mostafa and fled the city.
Return to Tanger
Compared to the bustling souks of Tetouan, Chefchaouen appears calm, perfect for those seeking respite from bargaining and noise. The streets remain vibrant as do the colors, just in a more relaxed, welcoming atmosphere. Loved Chefchaouen, Tetouan not much at all.
We return through green, tranquil countryside to Tanger. Traffic runs light, police control lays ever present at roundabouts. I enjoy the views.
Once we reach Tanger, we experience a terrible backup of traffic. It is stop and inch forward, wait and inch forward for over 30 minutes. A huge truck misjudged a turn and has traffic stopped for over a mile. Traffic is a nightmare of cars and motorcycles weaving and squeezing into every available inch of space. A cacophony of horns occasionally breaks out. All in all, drivers are polite and accommodating.
With relief, Mostafa deposits us at our hotel before 6:45 – today’s sunset ends Ramadan for the fasting Muslims. I admit, I too look forward to dinner and something other than offers of colas or mint tea.
Dinner – No Its Breakfast Time
Due to the Muslim fast during Ramadan, our friends haven’t eaten or drunk anything since sunrise. As we walk toward the Port near our hotel, restaurants are just beginning to serve breakfast.
Instead of tagine, I have eggs; in place of wine, I settle for another cola.
It is a pleasant evening in Tanger. Gabrielle continues her stroll as I return to the hotel. Having traveled here a few years ago, Gabrielle explores how much Tanger has changed. Tomorrow, she can take me through the Medina and Kasbah. I figure, this can’t be worse than Tetouan.
I happily recommend our two drivers while in Tanger.
Ayoub will arrange tours of the city and countryside +212 632-355635
Mostafa was a considerate and knowledgeable driver with very good English skills. +212 665-466085
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