4 April 2025
Here, within a Mediterranean country, I consider myself a breakfast person. My breakfast usually includes olives, cheese, amlou (a delicious spread of honey, almonds and argan oil), croissants, maybe a baghrir (a pancake like bite drizzled with honey and butter) and coffee.
Our morning destination lies about 58 miles northwest of Fès. We explore the fascinating archeological site of Volubilis, a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Volubilis
The Romans hung out in this remote region from around 44 CE to the late 3rd century AD. Initially, Volubilis became part of the Roman province of Mauretania Tingitana after Emperor Claudius annexed the region in 44 CE. The city thrived as a Roman outpost, known for its olive oil production, trade, and impressive architecture.
By around 285 CE, the Romans abandoned Volubilis, leaving the city to local Berber rulers. However, the influence of Roman culture and infrastructure remained long after their departure.
People actively inhabited Volubilis until the 18th century. This site represents one of Morocco’s best preserved and impressive ancient Roman sites.
The entire site suffered severe damage as a result of the 1755 Great Lisbon Earthquake (estimated at 7.7). Though over 500 miles from the epicenter, the fragile buildings fell. What I see today is efforts to reconstruct the structures from the original stone.
Roman Ruins
The fortified Roman city encompasses over 104 acres. Within its 1.6-mile walls lie majestic ruins and mosaics, all surrounded by stunning countryside views. The site features grand arches, columns, thermal baths, and remnants of public buildings, including the Capitol, Basilica, and Triumphal Arch of Caracalla.
Walkways, well-preserved gates, and standing columns cover the site. All these stones and ruins assist in imagining the size and importance of this city. Buildings consist mostly of locally quarried grey-blue limestone which is strong and weather resistant. However, very little remains of the site’s original Punic settlement, as it lies under these later Roman buildings.
The Basilica and Capitoline Temple are reconstructions. The Capitoline Temple stands behind the basilica in what was once an arcaded courtyard. An altar positioned in front of 13 steps leads to a Corinthian-columned temple, which had a single sanctuary. Dedicated to Jupiter, Juno, and Minerva, it played a key role in civic life, hosting assemblies for seeking divine aid or giving thanks. An inscription found in 1924 indicates its reconstruction in 218.
Originally, the Triumphal Arch of Caracalla was crowned by a bronze chariot drawn by six horses. At its base, statues of nymphs poured water into marble basins. The arch featured medallion busts of Caracalla and Julia Domna, though these later became defaced and Julia’s completely gone. The French reconstructed this monument between 1930 and 1934.
Mosaic Floors
Some of the best-preserved Roman mosaics in North Africa remain intact, depicting mythological scenes like Diana and the Nymphs or Hercules’ Labors. Within the House of Dionysus is a depiction of Dionysus, the god of wine. Other mosaics include the House of the Acrobat depicting a man and his acrobatic horse; House of Orpheus features Orpheus playing his lyre amid his animal audience.
Within the ruins of the House of Venus, the remaining mosaic floor depicts Venus in a seashell and a classic Roman artistic motif of geometric patterns and designs. Sun and weather dulls and damages these ancient masterpieces, yet this original mosaic remains clear.
The House of the Labors of Hercules showcases the seemingly impossible 12 labors of Hercules assigned by King Eurystheus, one of the most famous of mythological themes. Tanger’s Grottes d’Hercules talks about one of these labors: the acquisition of an apple (not the iPhone) from Atlas.
Here, the mosaic shows not only the stealing of the golden apple, but also the slaying of the Nemean lion, killing the Lernaean Hydra, capturing the Ceryneian Hind, capturing the Erymanthian Boar, cleaning the stables of Augeas, slaying the Stymphalian birds, capturing the Cretan Bull, stealing the Mares of Diomedes, retrieving the girdle of Hippolyta, capturing the cattle of Geryon, and finally, bringing Cerberus, the guard dog of the Underworld, back to the surface world. Most mosaics are easily recognizable.
One can wander this site for hours. Views of the countryside, bright sun, and cooling wind all make it a nice location to call home. We return to our van and motor some 20 miles south to Meknes, the third Imperial City on our tour.
MEKNES
The Imperial City of Meknes, also known as the Kasbah of Moulay Isma’il, is a vast palace complex and citadel. Sultan Moulay Isma’il ibn Sharif, the second Alawite Sultan, built it between 1672 and 1727. He bestowed Meknes with an enormous palace complex and stables, surrounded by 25 miles of imposing walls adorned with monumental gates.
Dar El-Makhzen – The Royal Palace
Bab Mansur al-‘Alj, the monumental city gate in Meknes
A close ally of Louis XIV of France, Sultan Moulay Isma’il understood how to impress. The Dar al-Makhzen covers approximately 198 acres, making it one of the largest royal palaces in Morocco. Its vast grounds include numerous courtyards, pavilions, gardens, fountains, and administrative buildings. Though the palace remains closed for visitors, its stables, granary, and ornate gates remain a major attraction.
The stables and granary of the palace once housed 12,000 horses and stored vast quantities of grain. The sultan really liked horses. The structures consists of thick walls and high vaulted ceilings to regulate temperature and protect supplies. He wanted his horses to be comfortable in this hot climate.
The granary ensured a steady food supply for the city, while the stables reflected the sultan’s military power and logistical efficiency. The ruins showcase impressive rows of stone pillars and archways.
The beautiful mausoleum of the sultan lies just within the city gates, across the road from the prison and the royal golf course. The huge building it covered in Moroccan tiling with tall ceilings, courtyard and fountain.
But what one most remembers about Meknes is the ever-present high stone walls flanking the roads and surrounding the palace.
These fortified walls are approximately 26 feet high, enclosing the vast palace grounds, ensuring security and privacy. Massive gates, intricate tilework, and traditional Moroccan architectural details adorn them. Unfortunatel, they also exclude any desired glimpse into the grandeur of the sultan’s vision.
Happy Hour Survival 101
Following the rules of our hotel, we finally find a place where it is acceptable to order an alcoholic libation. I cannot remember traveling where the rules were so enforced. Alcohol only served around the pool and a small lounge. That is, when they will serve it at all.
One can have a drink with dinner. Tonight, we enjoy a Moroccan white wine, sitting around the pool, while listening to haunting Calls to Prayer echoing over Fès. All seeming rather in juxtaposition to our surroundings.
Dinner is another story.
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