19 Sept 2024
I met a wonderful Danish couple, Ingrid and Gunner, while cruising the Rio Negro. Second day here in Pantanal, I did a double take as they were sitting at the table next to me. We arranged to meet at our next destination. Their email informs me they have already seen 3 jaguars there. BIG OKAY! I leave after breakfast for Porto Jofre.
(more…)18 Sept 2024
A red sun appears above the horizon. Birds chirp and sing. The air feels cool. It’s 5:30 am. I climb aboard my wagon and Guia Tim motors around the immense grounds and paths of Pousada Piuval. Our goal this morning? To spot a giant anteater. Early risers of the feathered-kind are also expected. I am not disappointed.
(more…)16-17 Sept 2024
I arrange Uber pickup for the short ride from my hotel to the airport. The morning is cool but hazy. My bag is crammed and I am thinking: how can I lighten my load? Carrying an extra battery and binoculars takes up space and adds a pound or two. In the carryon world, ounces count.
(more…)16 Sept 2024
Say hallelujah! I get to sleep in. Exhausted, I sleep for 9 hours. The temperatures range in the low 60s with intermittent sprinkles of rain. I am informed this is unusually cool – I am NOT complaining.
(more…)14-15 Sept 2024
My amazing cruise ends at an ungodly hour for breakfast and departure. If there exists any criticism of my time on the M/Y Tucano, it would be no opportunity to sleep in. Breakfast – always loads of fresh fruit, scrambled eggs and an assortment of other stuff. Then it is goodbye, leave, be on your way. The ship and staff prepare for the next group of lucky souls.
(more…)12-13 Sept 2024
My 6th day on the river begins with a dawn excursion hunting for sleepy wildlife, and a large breakfast followed by a hike to a private sandbar. I stay on the boat enjoying the views and a strong, cooling breeze.
These would be rather quotidian experiences if I were not in the Amazon. Nothing is mundane or ho-hum when surrounded by this ecosystem.
10-11 Sept 2024
I awake to a beautiful sunrise over Rio Jaueperi, the beginning of a new day. This is as far northwest as we venture, about 150 miles from Manaus. Sounds begin to reverberate across the river as the jungle awakens to another day of struggle and survival. Seems a perfect moment to spread some ashes, to watch them shimmer and drift with the river current forever a part of the Amazon.
