This day is all about DISTRACTIONS from the long road ahead. We will travel about 260 miles to our next destination, Ghardaïa. Our route, while on paved road, meanders through the Sahara. And there is not a whole lot to distract as we motor along on N46 and N1.
Leaving Bou Saâda, the scenery is classic red Saharan desert—flat stony plains, cactus and palms, occasional low hills, and long horizons under an enormous sky. Temperatures have warmed and I finally can wear a short sleeved shirt. The land feels empty, broken only by scattered village, palm clusters, and the faint geometry of foggaras.
New country, new breakfast. While still centered around strong coffee, breakfast appears heavily influenced by the French, traditions left behind when the they left Algeria in 1962.
Morning meal is a tasty mix of sweet and savory – think coffee, breads, and pastries. Lots of breads line the tables, including traditional semolina-based bread, eaten with butter, honey, jam, olive oil, or cheese. I do taste the sfenj, a light but chewy fried doughnut dusted with sugar and dipped in honey. Something I must try later is baghrir, a semolina pancake soaked in honey and butter. However, this morning I enjoy my usual: yogurt and nuts.
The weather is definitely not what I expected. The morning temperature reaches a cool 56°F under cloudy skies and with very brisk winds of 23mph. Only bearable with 3 layers of long-sleeve shirts, a windbreaker and scarf. Thankfully, no rain.
Every breakfast combination known to Man and then some appears spread out in the dining area. No known soup, salad, sliced meat, cheese, olive, date, egg, bread, jellies, and mystery stuff is lacking. A boiled egg and yogurt, plus very strong coffee, and I am fortified for another day of desert adventure.
Today, we explore unique architecture, walk in the steps of Luke Skywalker and Chewbacca, and I will continue an attempt to capture the essence of unbelievable landscapes. And, I hope, find a glass of wine!
Climbing aboard a 4-wheel Landrover hints at what our day may be like. While we travel mostly on paved roads thru low hills, sand cliffs and dunes, we seem destined for a distant time and place: “A long time ago in a galaxy far, far away….” In reality, our destination – Tatooine.
In 1976, this desert region of Tunisia took on an entirely new look, not geologically but spiritually. Tatooine was born. Its life-forms became cinematographers, gaffers, foley artists, directors and Luke Skywalker.
True, sunsets are gorgeous. Libation in hand, quiet evenings, good company: it’s a wonderful time. Meanwhile, sunrises, though often gorgeous, depends upon timing. Sunrise at Merzouga Dunes is 6:59 am. This is a reasonable time to get a cup of coffee and watch the sun come up.
”Morning’s Glory” was a bit weak. However, the early camel trains coming over the hill and heading west made the rise worth it.
After breakfast, we board our 4×4 vans, camels still chewing in their sleep I suppose, and caravan across the barren desert to meet our bus.
