12-13 Sept 2024
My 6th day on the river begins with a dawn excursion hunting for sleepy wildlife, and a large breakfast followed by a hike to a private sandbar. I stay on the boat enjoying the views and a strong, cooling breeze.
These would be rather quotidian experiences if I were not in the Amazon. Nothing is mundane or ho-hum when surrounded by this ecosystem.
By mid-afternoon, the Tucano has motored far downstream. The water is choppy and current strong as if the river also knows an exciting event is soon to happen.
Encontro das Aguas
Our destination is Encontro das Aguas, the Meeting of the Waters, where two of the world’s largest rivers join. This merging is a natural phenomenon where the Rio Negro and the Rio Solimões converge but do not immediately mix. This site officially becomes the mighty Amazon, usurper of all rivers in the basin, combining waters to rush its way into the Atlantic.
The Rio Negro, which is black in color due to its higher concentration of organic matter (lower pH and no mosquitoes) and the lighter-colored Rio Solimões, with its muddy sediment and prevalence of mosquitoes, flow side by side for several miles before finally merging into the Amazon River.
This conflicting ocean currents is fascinating; there are other turbulent meeting of waters around the world (Strait of Gibraltar, Gulf of Alaska, The Congo River and Atlantic Ocean), but the visual impact of this turbulent maelstrom creates a unique spectacle. Sadly, this is the only site seen by many tourists who never venture far from Manaus.
The Tucano turns her bow upstream for her return passage to our overnight anchorage north of Manaus. The port, one of the world’s largest inland ports, is lively. The skyline withs its murals is best seen from the river.
River shores are crowded with shipping, warehouses, homes and boats of all sizes. The surrounding tributaries and marinas are lively with mid-river bars and house boats. Music drifts over the waters indicating we have returned to “civilization.”
Cave te Aude
Watch and listen – Be careful and dare
I appreciate the Tucano’s motto: Cave te Aude – watch and listen. There was indeed much to learn about the Amazon Basin. For those who choose to Be careful and dare, this week in the Amazon is something never to be forgotten. I have read biographies of explorers, watched documentaries and enjoyed photos of the region. None can truly reveal the realities of the Amazon Basin’s ecosystem. That takes a small boat, good guides, hiking boats, patience, and curiosity.
Perhaps my motto would be:
No griping about heat and humidity – just accept it
The evening ends with a delicious farewell dinner. A toast to our wonderful guides and captain ensues. Silently, I also toast all those trees.
Overhead, jets roar, bound for the nearby airport. I check into my flights and receive electronic boarding passes. So far – so good.
In the morning, I go to the airport destined for São Paulo and a connecting flight to my next destination – massive vertical waters in the form of the waterfalls of Iguaçu.
