8 June 2026
What an amazing exploration as I traveled through the Baltic countries of Lithuania (Vilnius, Kaunas, Siauliai) Latvia (Riga) and Estonia (Tallinn). Some experiences a repeat performance from my 2009 trip, other stops were new. Eleven days crammed with history, culture, cuisine and tasty ales.
My Memorable Moments:
As a Californian, I must see the whites of a driver’s eyes before stepping into any crosswalk. In the Baltic States, it took some getting accustomed to and a lot of trust, but at pedestrian crossings, just my approach brought cars and buses to a screeching halt. No matter how busy the street or traffic. No exceptions!
If not in a crosswalk, I felt I was fair game.
Without a doubt, these states empathize with and totally support Ukrainians. Flags and posters are everywhere. The Baltic States remember what it was like under the Russian boot of oppression. They achieved their independence just 25 years ago. It isn’t history, for them – it happened yesterday.
In fact, the Ukrainian flag was almost as prevalent as the country’s flag. It seemed as if I traveled through two countries at once.
Reasons for travel is to expanding one’s understanding of what it is to be a Global citizen. While I never saw or felt anything anti-American, I did not see our flag flying as it once shared space with other world flags. We have been replaced as the shining star. Zelenskyy has become a Man of the Masses.
I witnessed very little smoking! Perhaps a bit more in Estonia than in Latvia. I don’t believe I saw one smoker in Lithuania. And the streets were noticeably absent of cigarette butts. In fact, everything is very clean.
While no smokers, I did see many Prius. Cars were new, shiny and cared for here. It seems, in general, the economy was doing well in the cities I visited.
Pleasurably memorable experiences included the students in Šiauliai’s Presidential Palace who practiced their English by explaining the exhibits to me. I was so impressed with their eagerness to share and command of English. I could speak not a word of their own language.
Everyone I met was friendly and welcoming. All seemed cautious but interested about the current status on of the USA. Never openly hostile but definitely disappointed in current political rhetoric of US.
Thank heavens, almost everyone spoke English, and most signs were also translated into English. I experienced few problems being understood. Also, national pride caused the Baltic States to replace Russian with English as their second language
Even my translation apps failed most of the time. And it would have helped a lot in the stores so I would have avoided Sweet cream with raspberry flavor, a dessert, thinking it was yogurt! Tasty, but not a breakfast food group.
I discovered two great artists while traveling: Cuirlionis in Šiauliai Lithuania and Adamson-Eric in Tallinn Estonia. Both produced an array of extraordinary works.
I love cities with medieval walls but even more those with dedicated pedestrian streets. Kaunas has one of the best I have walked. One could spend their entire day on the Laisvės al.
Cats. I saw none! In my entire time in the Baltic States, and days in Berlin, I saw not one stray cat. I don’t count the stuffed tiger in the natural history museum in Riga. In fact, if I hadn’t visited the Cat House in Siauliai, Lithuania, I would have surmised that this region of the world held no knowledge of domesticated felines.
What this does tell me is that these countries have taken responsibility to prevent strays. The Cat House explained their efforts to spay and neuter and shelter their animals. Both dogs, always seen on leash, and cats. Wonderful to know.
When a day hands you lemons, then turn it into lemonade. Weather was mostly comfortable but I am glad I packed a sweater at the last moment. I think I wore in at least 10 out of 17 days on this trip, so far. Still have Sweden.
It may have misted but that created no problems, which was good as the brutal wind would have ripped the guts out of any umbrella opened for shelter. It did pour rain for a short time in Tallinn. Thanks to the weather app, I knew the timing and found a restaurant with large umbrellas and enjoyed lunch until the storm passed. Then the sun came out.
Another oddity was experienced in Tallinn. There are no places to buy bus tickets at the Bussijaam (bus station). Even the three policeman working there could not locate anything and just told me to buy it on the bus. So, I have to hope my credit card works as it will not work in the transit app. I tapped my card, machine beeped with green lights, and sit hoping somehow there is an indication I’ve paid as I get no proof whatsoever to show if asked. The receipt for payment was received the next day. The Vilnius buses worked the same.
And I’m still musing about that Frank Zappa bust in Vilnius.
I’m traveling far north. It never gets truly dark here. If I wake at 2 am, I still see a dark blue sky with ambient light. Sunset is after 10:30 and Sunrise is around 4 am. All this takes some adjustment.
The local food and beer – I never tired of it. The cuisine in these countries consists of a lot of pork, potatoes, sauerkraut, sausages, and coleslaw. Thankfully, I like it all. I enjoyed sampling the local beer in each region. Drinking mostly light beers and the occasional wheat beer, I found them all refreshing and tasty.
Because of the cruise port, Tallinn was incredibly crowded. It became easier to avoid the street jams by walking in the smaller lanes and going to the museums. Sadly, while hoards clogged the streets, few entered any of the museums.
After 7 pm, the streets returned to the locals. Then was the time to stroll, enjoy the cobblestone attractions, and rest in the cafes.
After two weeks of travel from Berlin and through the three Baltic States, I admitted to myself that I felt drained.
I had explored countless history, occupation, holocaust, and war museums. While each told its region’s individual experiences, the commonality of cruelty and oppression rang the same. For many, the citizens traded the evil Nazis for the barbaric Russians.
Their stories and struggles for independence are heroic.
The propaganda reached unbelievable exaggeration, cynicism, and derision. It worked on the citizens who believed or wanted to believe for whatever reasons. Did it only take a persistent propaganda campaign to turn the tide – from reasonable to barbaric, accepting to choosing and brutalizing a scapegoat?
I cannot count the number of times I felt I was listening to a history of my own country at this time. Lessons stared me in the face. Lessons that Americans seem to have overlooked and are now paying a price for this ignorance.
Exploring the Baltic States was a journey through history, resilience, and charm. From medieval old towns to quiet forests and creative neighborhoods, each country offered its own character while sharing a deep sense of national pride and identity.
I came to explore more of the Baltic States and left with a genuine affection for them. Their stories, landscapes, and people made every day an adventure. It became a goal to become pleasantly lost in countless old towns, sample local specialties and brews.
In the end, I ended up falling in love with the Baltic States. It was a journey that left me wanting more.
