14-15 Sept 2024
Ending an amazing cruise at an ungodly hour for breakfast and departure. If there was any criticism of my time on the M/Y Tucano, it would be no opportunity to sleep in. Breakfast – always loads of fresh fruit, scrambled eggs and an assortment of other stuff. Then it is goodbye, leave, be on your way. The ship and staff prepare for the next group of lucky souls.
All flights seem to pass through São Paulo.
It is a quick ride to the Manaus International Airport and then wait. Not possible to pass security until 3-hours ahead. A cola in the busy lobby then, eventually, easy pass through security. Thankfully, a Priority Pass lounge is just beyond. There I drink coffee and relax until flight is called. It is a small airport and gate near.
These are uncomfortable flights. First, no English is spoken in spite of visitors ignorant of Portuguese. Second, I have three flights to catch, three opportunities to be late, three opportunities to have a cancellation. Third, it is Friday the 13th.
Fortunately, I am not the superstitious type. I am a seasoned traveler and only hope Azul Airlines is prompt and gets me to my destination.
Flying to São Paulo is 4-hours of cloud. I have at least two hours between flights and Azul arrives and departs the same terminal. Departure is prompt, flying smooth. Except for that last “whoopsie.” We are within a couple hundred feet of the runway when the pilot guns the engine and takes his turns to try a second time. Okay, one down, two to go.
Due to Azul’s “slight” schedule change, not only do I pass thru São Paulo, but make a brief stop in Curitiba to change planes for another flight.
No lounge in this terminal, so I sit in a cafe and enjoy a margarita tapioca, sort of a pizza in a cassava taco.
I walk to the gate, just a few feet away. Announcement in Portuguese, unintelligible, but passengers are leaving. Bad sign – I follow. Screens tell me flight changed from Gate 5 to 7 and is late. Not cancelled, thankfully, but late enough I begin to sweat the minutes.
Plane arrives, passengers deplane, we quickly board. Minutes count. It is dark, few lights sparkle as we fly over jungle. Arrival time may allow me 20 minutes gate to gate.
We approach the runway, wheels bump the tarmac, engines roar and we are back in the air. “Shit” I say. It reminds me of the planes of science fiction as they circle attempting to find their right eon in the world they lost.
Banking over a vast panorama of city lights, our pilot completes his landing the second time around. I have at least five minutes to spare. Gates are near and I speed walk to my last connection.
This connection has always been the tricky leg – making certain I land in the right country. Brazil and Argentina share the Iguaçu Falls but not airports, even though they are only a few miles apart.
A short time in the air, we arrive into Foz do Iguaçu a few minutes ahead of schedule just where I had planned. We land on first attempt, but I have also had smoother touchdowns with Alaskan Bush pilots.
The weather is giving be a respite.
However, I am here. I meet my driver for the speedy trip to the hotel. There, I enjoy cool weather, a beautiful room and inviting bed. I long for a good night’s sleep – which is not to be. In just 6 hours I begin a new adventure.
Foz do Iguaçu
When in Brazil, I cannot imagine not exploring the Amazon. Iguazu Falls is also a must. Not only is it a World Heritage Site but one of the Seven New Natural Wonders of the Modern World. Like the Amazon River, lots of water but exerting a whole lot more clout.
The force and power of water is something people don’t deeply think about until they are faced with it. Nothing much stops water in its path. It’s always exciting to see waterfalls, the taller the better. The more water the better.
There are waterfalls then there is Iguaçu
To say that Iguaçu Falls is awe-inspiring is underrating its beauty and power. Straddling the border between Argentina and Brazil, the area is comprised of scores of waterfalls and massive amounts of water. Vertical drops are from a few feet to over 82 meters/269 feet on the Iguaçu River. They must be one of the largest and most impressive waterfall systems in the world.
Put to scale, Iguaçu Falls consists of around 275 individual falls spread over nearly 2 miles. The sheer scale and volume of water create a breathtaking spectacle of sound and force. For my first day in the area, my guide, Douglas, picks me up at my hotel, Sanma near the airport, and transports me for an informative tour of the falls.
Argentina’s Iguaçu Falls
The falls can be viewed from both Argentina and Brazil. The Argentine side consisted of a tour in the Argentinean Park with walking trails to Devil’s Throat and other lookouts along the multitude of falls. The Ecological Jungle Train provides a wonderful ride through the jungle and along the river, before arriving at Devil’s Throat station. It is incredibly crowded with 4 to a bench.
The falls here are approximately 1.68 miles wide. The Devil’s Throat, the tallest of these waterfalls, drops by more than 80 meters into a milky abyss that creates a permanent cloud of mist. Swallow flit in the mist to return to their nests behind the falls.
From here, I hike along the rather wet catwalk to observe the tallest of the waterfalls. The Upper Circuit, beginning at the Cataratas Station, offers more panoramic views of the falls and river. It is impossible to stay dry but the experience is amazing. And, after sweating in the Amazon, here the air is cool and the dampness welcome.
The sound of the falls is thunderous, and the mist created by the cascading water can create rainbows on sunny days. Today is not one. But it is blessedly cool and the only dampness is from the ever-present mists. The sheer power of the water crashing down is both exhilarating and humbling. The falls are set within the lush rainforest of the Iguaçu National Park, which is rich in biodiversity. Exotic birds, butterflies, and other wildlife are numerous around the park. I am informed there are at least 20 resident jaguars and over 200 puma/mountain lions.
There are several walkways that allow for a multitude of views. The photo ops are endless. Not all water looks alike. And no two waterfalls are alike. While I have seen beautiful vertical drops of water, Niagara Falls, Yosemite, Murchison Falls Uganda, these Iguaçu Falls are unique. Many falls represent a series of drops as they tumble over rocks, create inviting but dangerous pools, then drop many feet into the mists below.
Douglas names the individual falls. Devil’s Throat, Adam and Eve, San Martin, Tres Mosqueteros (3 musketeers), all roar over the precipice from the massive Rio Iguaçu Superior into the turbulent waters below.
Brasil’s Iguaçu Falls
Recrossing the borders, checking passport, glad for the assistance from Douglas, avoiding queues and unnecessary loss of time. We depart Argentina and drive the short distance to the Brazilian side of Iguaçu Falls. Here is perhaps the most complete panoramic views of the falls. And the wettest.
The Brazilian park allows tour guides to drive into the park, otherwise it would be a bus. Roads warn of speed limits, we carry a GPS which monitors the car’s speed. Roads also alerts visitors to the presence of jaguar, about 20, and puma/mountain lions number over 200. Signs also warn of funny looking long-nosed raccoons and wild boar. None are seen but already I have seen more birds than the previous week on the Amazon.
There is just one trail, beginning across the road from the iconic, pink Hotel Das Cataratas where Princess Diana stayed overlooking the river and a vintage pink VW bus. The trail ends at Devil’s Throat amid raging waters, wet cascades and roaring waters.
Certainly the highlight of the Brazilian side is the panoramic view from the footbridge where I was surrounded by awesome cascades. Expect to get wet. Views and experience is worth the cooling shower of mists as one passes seriously close to the gigantic, tumbling wall of water.
Departure is by elevator to a viewing platform above the falls. Everything about the experience is spectacular. I am enthused to purchase a key chain for my wall. Douglas wondered many minutes what a “kitchen” chain was.
In our many discussions, Douglas also gave me pointers for things to see tomorrow. Number One on the list is a walk behind my hotel to the river. There is a bird park next to my hotel grounds.
I believe my Sunday is planned.
