4 Sept 2024
So far, the rewards may be worth the effort in getting there. The jury is still out on that decision.
I am unable to adequately describe the spectacular sunrise as I arrived into my destination of São Paulo. A red ball appeared above the horizon – small, brilliant. A laser beam morphing into what would quickly become a hot, baking sun. Slowly, almost as if I could see it rise, red turned into a gleaming white orb. Clouds turned from red to pink, and my first day in Brasil had begun.
After 20 hours, in which no amount of caramel sundae could improve, my plane slowly descended into São Paulo. No clouds seen but a heavy haze that could easily best Los Angeles on its worst day. I have watched the flight map during my flight, noting that I flew past Manaus 4 hours ago.
After a four-hour layover in an overcrowded and lacking airport lounge, I depart for Manaus, four hours back in the direction I just came. Unfortunately, I will experience this airport again and again during the next three weeks. I am not enthused.
Below, voluminous clouds, a bit of turbulence, bare brown spots with masses of houses crawling over countless hills within communities surrounded by water and trees. Houseboats, sandy beaches, more water. I fly above brown fields then a wide river. Then a wider river. Then a hugely wide river. I decide I won’t know the real Amazon until I am on it.
I land at the small Manaus International Airport: one runway surrounded by homes, rivers and dense forests. After 29 hours and 6,376 steps through various terminals, it is a short but speedy ride into town, arriving at the Casa Perpetua in the heart of the city. Manaus appears shabby-tired but bustling with promises of an exciting few days of exploration.
My lodging looks interesting amid friendly greetings. It goes downhill from there. I must clarify – I am really tired. The temps are in the high 90s with 68% humidity. My room is fine but I note the blankets on the bed. In what reality will they be needed? The bathroom is off a sweet tiled patio, open to heat and I imagine a flood of mosquitoes. Will I be able to sleep? I don’t dare turn on lights and attract biting visitors.
Walking around the corner, I dine at Piaf, named after the singer. Carlos knows a smattering of English, a real small smattering. I know less Portuguese. But we practice saying beer, the most important issue of the moment. The RX said to take my maleria pills with food, nothing said about washing it down with cerveja.
I settle on a Stella Artois – the local beer comes in what looks to be gallon jugs. A Tapiocas com carne is small but filling. I depart Piaf and her wall of memorabilia to stroll the block back to my sauna bath and, hopefully, a night of sleep sans biting insects. Perhaps the maleria pills are already working. Or, the Stella.
First lesson: Brasil is a cashless society. The restaurant failed to break 100 BRL. That equaled less than $18US. Tap to pay is preferred with over half the people using Google wallet. Merchants pay an annual fee but not a percent for every transaction like in the United States. Thus, whether purchasing something for $2 or $30, the merchant prefers credit or debit card.
I used an ATM at the airport and got 1400 Real; beer is less than 3$. This might be one of those countries where it is hard to spend much cash.
The stained-glass around the dome of the Opera House glows with lights from within, and the Plaza São Sebastião resonates with music and playing children with their families. The evening is pleasant though continues to be above 80°.
I learn tomorrow, 5 September, is a holiday in Manaus. The city celebrates the occasion of officially becoming the Province of Amazonas on this date in 1850. On September 4, 1856, the city was renamed Manaus in honor of the Manaó indigenous people.
Saturday is a national holiday. On 7 September 1822, Brasil celebrated it’s Declaration of Independence from the United Kingdom of Portugal, Brazil and the Algarves.
A great thing about travel, after getting a good night’s sleep, everything’s energized. We exercise more, we learn with gusto, stained glass glows brighter, we eat better, and things just seem tastier. Life is more vivid the more we embrace it.
Tomorrow will be at least 97° with 68% humidity. I will begin my exploration of Manaus as far as the sun and heat allow. I can also embrace life sitting in a pleasant street café, overlooking a Plaza, sipping a cold beer and watching life in action.
