6 Sept 2024, Friday
High 94° low 79° after brief thunderstorm then 90° again
Despite heat, there exist things to see. I am early out the door with plans to escape the oppresive heat before 1pm.
Museu da Cidade de Manaus
is downhill toward the old port. It dedicates itself to preserving and documenting the history, art, and cultural developments of Manaus. Featured are exhibits on the history of Manaus, its development during the rubber boom, and its indigenous cultures. Just a small portion is accessible as festival stages block the entrance.
The history of this area and the reality of its development paints a portrait of cruelty and greed beyond imagination. The jungle was, and still is, harsh enough, but was unmatched when it came to the lack of concern for human life exhibited by the rubber barons. Their practice of forced labor, slavery, and genocide left natives decimated. No wonder they became unfriendly and distrustful.
I’m sorry exhibits were closed for festival. It did have some interesting sculptures in its otherwise barren garden.
Catedral Nossa Senhora da Conceição
is a short stroll through the barren Municipal Park. Within sits the Cathedral of Our Lady of Conception. The current cathedral was built between 1888 and 1896, during a period of significant development in Manaus, which coincided with the rubber boom.
The cathedral features a grand entrance. Decorative elements reflecting its architectural heritage adorn the façade. The plain interior is bright and spacious, with high ceilings and side aisles creating a sense of grandeur and openness.
As the focal point of the cathedral’s interior, its main altar contains elaborate religious icons, statues, and intricate woodwork and marble. Above, stained-glass windows depict various religious scenes and contribute to the interior’s ambiance by casting colorful light into the space.
Palacete Provincal
I hate to miss a garden stroll or museum, so I walk the short distance east of the cathedral through the also plain and barren Parça to the museums of Palacete Provincal. The ‘garden’ does feature a bridge over still waters probably hot enough to boil a goldfish. The difference between locals and homeless is the homeless lay on cardboard. No grass, just dirt.
Built in the early 20th century, the Palacete originally served as a residence for wealthy families and also housed various administrative functions including the old police quarters. It was a symbol of the wealth and grandeur of Manaus. Today, it functions as an Amazonia cultural center housing events and historical exhibitions.
It is an impressive building for police headquarters as it features ornate facades, decorative ironwork, and classical elements such as columns and arches. Inside, elegant and spacious rooms, high ceilings, and intricate woodwork abound. The interiors include period furnishings and decorative elements that reflect the opulence of the time of the barons.
The building contains several free museums. The Centro Cultural Dos Provos da Amazonia expertly explores many facets of the culture of the region and its peoples. There is an extensive exhibit on the history, often quite turbulent, of the military police. Much of this is in English. Today, I see their presence all over the streets of Manaus.
Canudos War
Such turbulence came in the form of the War of Canudos, a conflict between the First Brazilian Republic and the residents of Canudos in the northeastern state of Bahia.
It was waged in the aftermath of the end of slavery in Brasil in 1888 and the ouster of the monarchy the next year. The conflict arose from a cult based on the belief that radical changes to society were coming as a result of a major cataclysm or transformative event. Leader Antonio Conselheiro began preaching spiritual salvation to the poor population of the an impoverished region suffering through severe droughts.
Conselheiro and his followers came into conflict with local authorities after founding the village of Canudos. The situation soon escalated, with Bahia’s government requesting assistance from the federal government, who sent military expeditions against the settlement.
Long story shortened, after a number of unsuccessful attempts at military suppression, the conflict came to a brutal end in October 1897 when army troops razed the village and slaughtered nearly all its inhabitants, men, women and children. It is remembered as the deadliest civil war in Brazilian history.
The explanations are in Portuguese but using my iPhone’s camera and its ability to translate, I can read it in English. Translation is open to interpretation; interpretation is a process of understanding any unintended innuendo.
Upstairs there is a section for numismatist junkies. The history of the fire department is explored. Also an interesting exhibit dedicated to the ecological concerns facing the Amazonas. Some pieces of expressionism were created with recycled materials collected from the polluted rivers as a symbol of the fight against the degradation of the environment.
Manaus Port and Mercado Municipal markets
Market Carne bustles with activity and color. It lies across the street from the Rio Negro and a long, long line of docks and ships. Here exists the real color and liveliness of Manaus. I witness countless trolleys pushed across the street all filled with produce destined for the cruise ships. The working port area is surprisingly dirty, smelly and unattractive for a casual lunch and cool drink.
The iconic iron markets are huge, divided by sections of flowers, meats, fish, spices, nuts, fruits, etc. Walking down the aisles, there is a bit of everything. It is good to see refrigeration for the meats. Select your favorite foods, colors or smells for endless photo ops.
Drought in the Amazon Basin
Walking along the side of the river, the news reports I have seen here become evident. Far below me is the trash-littered sand, floating piers, boats and river. Since mid-2023 the Amazon River Basin has been in a state of exceptional drought, driven by low rainfall and consistently high temperatures for the entire year 2023 across the basin. Even to me the water looks low.
Global warming is the main cause in this highly vulnerable basin, critical not just to locals but the world. Water is naturally low and sandy “beaches” exposed as water recedes in summer. However, lack of rain, smoke in the air coming from fires burning off vegetation to make way for development, and what seems to be absence of concern by government seem to be taking a visible toll on the basin. There does exist a point of no return.
Busy and unattractive Manaus Port. Floating piers for adapting to changing water levels.
People living in the Amazon basin across several nations including Brazil, Peru, Colombia, Venezuela, Ecuador and Bolivia, are experiencing disrupted transportation, isolation, and mass death of wildlife.
The large river system provides significant hydropower, with Brazil relying on hydro power for 80% of its electricity, Colombia 79%, Venezuela 68%, Ecuador and Peru 55%, and Bolivia 32%. The drought is significantly impacting dam capacities and energy output and led to power cuts in the region as early as June 2023.
Ports of Manaus
Manaus’ Port and the many other marinas in the area serve as a launchpad for Amazonian adventures. Considering the plethora of boats at port, one would never be at a loss to find a captain. Here, one can board boats of all sizes to experience a river cruise into the vast rainforest, encounter wildlife, and witness the remarkable Meeting of the Waters, where the dark Rio Negro and the sandy-colored Amazon converge.
This is not just a people watching environment. The animal life is interesting. I see very few cats. However, some stray dogs are present.
They all look alike, rather medium-sized, scrawny brown terriers, none neutered. Watching one cross an incredibly busy street, the dog was expert at when to pause and when to skirt around the cars. I am relieved he got across the street. It’s like the man pushing the pineapple kart who kinda did the same thing – crossing the street to sell me a pineapple.
Local breweries and delicious food
I love experiencing new cuisine when traveling. Fortunately, I suffer no allergies or food sensitivities. And I enjoy trying different foods. As long as it is not spicy hot or “picante quente” I am good to go.
Brasil has a burgeoning craft beer scene with a growing number of local breweries producing a wide variety of high-quality beers. I just am having g a hard time finding them at the cafes. Plenty of Heineken, Amstel, Stella and imports, just not local crafts.
I tend to go for amber ales and those with unique names. A standout beer is BrewDog Brazil out of São Paulo (though originally a Scottish brewery). Its IPA is supposed to be excellent. Another beer is the Cervejaria Propaganda. Its IPA is hoppy and tasty while the Propaganda Blonde Ale light and refreshing to help beat the heat and humidity of Manaus. I just have to keep looking. The sarapo was excellent.
So much, too little time and way too hot
There is a lot more to see and do in Manaus. With its history of colonialism, importance to our global environment, appreciation of the arts, food scene and markets, one could spend more days. With its current high temperatures, I just am thankful for shade, a breeze and an air-conditioned room.
This hot afternoon, I slowly walk uphill through crowded streets to São Sebastião Plaza. At Tambaqui de Banda I enjoy the view and a delicious lunch of garlic shrimp and draft Brahma beer.
In the evening, after a banging-good thunderstorm, more thunder than storm, I walk across the plaza to Splash. Tonight it is cold Amstel and a tasty margarita pizza (locals eat theirs with knife and fork).
Festival music and celebration are everywhere. Couples dance in the streets. Women traditionally dressed prepare to parade in the square. In true carnival fashion, though on a small scale, bands blast music, huge flags wave, half-naked dancers and even a king and queen begin celebrations. The fireworks and music continue long into the night.
Tomorrow
The Amazon River is the main reason I am here. I watch the festival activities and think of Kipling – the British writer, not the luggage:
“Something hidden. Go and find it. Go and look behind the Ranges – something lost behind the ranges. Lost and waiting for you. Go!“
I try to imagine the adventure ahead.
