5 Sept 2024, Thursday
High 97°, low 81°, humidity 68%
Manaus serves as the capital of Brasil’s Amazonas state. This busy city is not only rich in history but acts as the gateway to the Amazon Rainforest. I have seen it described as the gaudiest city in South America, if not the world. Representing a mix of urban life and natural beauty, I am here to experience both. I lodge in the historic district, making it easy to explore major sites.
The Teatro Amazonas
The Opera house, built during the rubber boom of the late 19th century (1896), acts as a stunning example of European architecture in the heart of the remote Amazon.
The architectural style is rather eclectic, blending elements of European Renaissance and Baroque with local influences. Its most striking feature is the large, colorful dome, covered in 36,000 ceramic tiles painted in the colors of the Brasilian flag (green, yellow, and blue). It seems no effort was spared and extravagance too absurd.
It also represents what unfettered ego and wealth could accomplish. Much of the artisan labor was created elsewhere and the pieces shipped up the Amazon. The building’s facade and opulent interior are adorned with lavish materials, including imported Italian marble and French glass. Unfortunately, many singers attempting to entertain the wealthy succumbed to yellow fever.
Half price for seniors, I am the only English speaker among at least 40 visitors. This earned me a private tour about the interior. I am assured there is air conditioning for performances. Currently, the audience would die of heat stroke.
Rubber Barons
Much of historic Manaus can be contributed to the rubber trade. The advent of automobiles meant the need, or should I say greed, for tires. As the demand for rubber soared, so did the wealth of the men who owned the trees. In 1912, Brasil exported $30 million dollars worth, equivalent to over a billion in today’s dollars.
The rubber boom was scarred by the exploitation of indigenous peoples. Labor is always cheap when the powerful can prey on the locals. However, the immense wealth generated from the rubber trade led to rapid economic growth. Manaus developed as one of the richest cities in the world during this period, with substantial investments in infrastructure, culture, and luxury.
The rich barons were responsible for the construction of several grandiose buildings, not only the Teatro Amazonas, but many notable luxurious mansions, hotels, and banks, many of which showcased European architectural styles. It continued in this growth until the rubber trade collapsed in the early 20th century, leading to a decline for Manaus.
Despite the decline, the architectural and cultural investments made during the rubber boom left their impact. Which led to the next financial boom for Manaus – the tourist trade. Many of the grand buildings and infrastructure developed during this period are still standing and contribute to the city’s unique historical and cultural landscape of architecture, museums, churches and gardens.
The São Sebastião Plaza
Below the Teatro is a large plaza and monument – surrounded by mature trees, kiosks, water salesmen and benches for idle conversations as locals attempt to escape the heat. I see no flowers so every tree is precious. The plaza is constructed of stones patterned much like the plazas of Lisbon. I later learn this is a good thing as most squares in Manaus are comprised mostly of benches, a few trees and paths thru bare, unadorned dirt.
Bordering the plaza is an interesting skyline. The occasional tall buildings, not much higher than 20 floors, feature beautifully painted murals. These are surrounded by tired, dirty buildings in need of a good power washing. Perhaps that is one benefit derived when the rainy season arrives. Cafes, bars, and small shops surround the plaza.
Galeria do Largo
This free museum sits opposite São Sebastião Plaza. While the exterior is modern, inside, the Galeria hosts exhibitions of local art and crafts, providing a platform for artisans to display and sell their work. This includes traditional Amazonian crafts, paintings, and other artworks. One small gallery features rotating exhibitions. Today, besides a wall of unusual portraits which included Frankenstein and Cameron Diaz, there was a beautiful collection of paintings of the impressive variety of Amazonian trees. There are also cafes and restaurants for enjoying some local cuisine and refreshments.
Casa Das Artes
This pleasant gallery lies on another side of the plaza. A rather unimpressive building, inside are various displays of painting, sculpture, photography and other visual arts. The center also features live performances of theater, dance and music.
Two displays are especially interesting. Using iPhones translation abilities, I could muddle thru in trying to understand their intent.
One gallery explains the significance of Candomblé, an African-based religion that arrived in Brasil through the transatlantic trafficking of slaves. Over the centuries, the religion resisted persecution, prejudice, and discrimination. The exhibition attempts to illustrate the spiritual journey of Babalorixá, or “father of the saints,” Gilmar Pereira, including photographs, sacred objects, and clothing. The priests are the owners of the tradition, knowledge and culture and the ones responsible to pass it on to the new generations because there are no sacred written books. I’m still attempting to understand the significance of the men in what looks like Quinceanera dresses.
A second gallery honors the Funkeiros cults. Curated by Dayrel Teixeira, from the Funkeiros Cults collective, the show addresses the art and daily life of the outskirts of Manaus, capital of Amazonas, focussing on the Compensa neighbourhood. Funkeiros Cults is organised in four axes: “Territory”, which portrays everyday life; “Art”, with classical images recreated with the aesthetics of the funk world; “Identity”, which show funk as a lifestyle; and “Literature”, with excerpts from literary passages that reflect the aesthetics of young people from the periphery.
The Funkeiros Cults collective emerged on social networks, by echoing images of young people reading classic books with humourous phrases in order to relate these works to the daily life of the peripheries.
"Bro Brown already said, don't throw pearls before swine, brother, throw it in the wash."
“What paths does a book travel until it reaches the hands of a slum dweller? What impact does it have when it arrives? How does funk influence the self-esteem of youth? And what happens when the periphery appropriates the power of creation, ceasing to be an object of study to be a protagonist with a camera in hand?” – these are the questions that the exhibit attempts to display.
Palace of Justice
This colonial building sits opposite the backside of the Teatro. Blending elements of Renaissance, Baroque, and eclectic influences, it features a grand facade with ornate details and large central dome.
Built in 1926 during the height of the rubber boom, it was originally designed to house judicial offices and courts of the Amazonas state. The building continues to serve as a courthouse and judicial center, but tours explore some of the ornate interior chambers.
Sidewalks – Beware!
Traffic is heavy and sidewalks are a challenge. The walks are crowded with shoppers, endless shops, and kiosks selling everything imaginable. Watch where you step! These are uneven sidewalks with big holes, some of them quite deep and half filled with trash. Most all walks are in serious need of repair. Traffic is heavy and incredibly noisy, some of which is festival oriented. Most pedestrians semi-ignore the crossing lights. Broad, busy streets are a challenge for the strong of heart. I am still not sure what the driver means by flashing his headlights: either I will let you thru or I will mow you over.
It is incredibly hot. Temperature is 97° and humidity about 68%. I lived in the Midwest; I’ve lived in Bakersfield heat. This is brutal. Because of the local holiday, many cafes are closing early. I am exhausted and visit my local “mini mart” for cold water and a can of chips for lunch. Sweat drips from my brow as I climb the stars to my hotel and enter my cool room. This is where I stay until after the sun sets. Even a short power outage doesn’t deter me.
Dining
Being by the waters of the Amazon allows for some great fish dishes. Here, everything from broiled or baked fish to fish stew is available. And Brazilians like meat so ribs, sausage and bacon are always on the menu. The Pão de Queijo is a delicious cheesy bread roll made with tapioca flour and cheese. Often considered Brazil’s national dish, feijoada is a black bean stew mixed with pork. Served with rice and a cold beer, it represents an excellent meal. On the street, venders sell a filling pastry filled with cheese, meat or veggies for those afternoon hungrys.
Tonight I treat myself to the first full meal since leaving home. I walk the short distance to Restaurante Caxiri. Here, I finally find a local draft beer in the form of sarapo. I pass up on the appetizer of ceviche with crispy fish bait. Instead,
I dine on perfectly prepared fresh grilled pirarucu fish (the fish looks like a stumpy eel) with toasted vegetables and a small dish of dahl. I splurge on an ice cream and strawberry desert. Even with cloth napkins and overlooking the Teatro, the tab comes to less than $28.
I am rejuvenated. Fireworks sound over the Amazon, music blasts in the streets. Tomorrow will be another day.
