25-26 September 2024
Rio is sort of like Cher. It only needs one name to be recognized.
I depart Cuiabá flying another Azul flight, my 7th, into São Paulo, my 4th visit, where I transfer to my flight into Rio de Janeiro’s domestic airport, SDU (Santos Dumont).
A red sun greets me as I walk to the airport.
Coming from California, drivers are to stop for pedestrians. Regardless, Californian’s know to proceed with caution; look that driver in the eye before stepping in front of a car. Here, Brazilian drivers, at least in Cuiabá, STOP. Morning traffic is heavy, people are going to work. They STOP. So civilized.
I’ve chosen Rio’s domestic airport because it allows me to walk out the terminal’s front door, cross the street, and arrive at my hotel within minutes. I’ve traded the Pantanal’s peacefulness for raucous Rio. Hotel Novotel on Av Rua Marechal Camara seems modern and convenient. Its location suits my tastes far more than the beach scene.
What to do, what to see
Museums, galleries, monuments and parks dot Rio’s historic downtown area. Most sites lay within walking distance of my hotel. Just as the Pantanal and Amazon represented must visits, so too the historic sites of Rio. From the airplane, I observed Rios’ two most famous landmarks: Sugarloaf and that of Christ the Redeemer. I’ve made it easy on myself and booked a tour which will motor me to both sites.
But today is my own. I visit the comfortable bar in the hotel lobby, enjoy a local Antartica Original cerveja or two, telephone my cousin in London thanks to amazing technology, and relax. It has been a busy three weeks exploring Brasil; I deserve a break.
Tomorrow, it is back to the demands of travel.
Challenging one’s limits
Climbing the Highlights
A tour van picks me up to travel thru narrow streets toward Corcovado Mountain and the Christ the Redeemer statue. The site sits far distant from town and the statue looks small on its mountain of rock. Our drive to the first base beneath the statue takes me through the Tijuca Forest, a large and lush urban rainforest teeming with diverse flora and fauna. It is also a twisting, stomach-turning steep climb uphill following old Trolley tracks.
For the one or two people who may not know, Christ the Redeemer, completed in 1931, is a colossal statue atop Rio’s Corcovado Mountain. Designed by Brazilian engineer Heitor da Silva Costa and sculpted by French artist Paul Landowski, it stands 98 feet tall and was constructed of reinforced concrete with a soapstone veneer to protect against weather. I believe every person on Earth must be familiar with the statue symbolizing peace and welcoming visitors with outstretched arms.
I depart our crowded van at the first stage. From here, a long, long line of taxis and tourist vans park and I board a designated park van which weaves and twists another several twists to a higher stage.
Along the way, I am forced to stand in front of a mural of the statue for a photo I can purchase later. I want so much to flip a couple “fuck yous.”
From this stage, I ride an elevator which takes me a third stage. There I ride two escalators to finally reach the top.
At the top, the 360° views of Rio and surrounding bays are slightly hazy but memorable. I leave a dusting of my BFF Jim along the capuchin monkey and coati trails at the base of the statue then fight my way through the dense crowds.
Those stupid photos forced-taken at the base do not deter any person from posing and posturing in front of the statue. Hundreds of people crowd the steps and patio. Digital selfies rule! It is hot and most unpleasant.
Rio–Niterói Bridge spanning Guanabara Bay, airport lower right
I walk 220 steps down past a mangy coati, relieved to escape.
Sugarloaf Mountain
The second mountain I scale is Sugarloaf. Its cable car ride to the top of the mountain is done in 2 stages: I begin at the boarding station to travel to Urca Mountain, then switch cars to continue to the top of Sugarloaf.
In between cars, amid scores of people forced into line in the heat, more fake photos are snapped.
From the top vantage point, about 1200’ above the city, the panoramic views of Rio with its many neighborhoods, surrounding beaches, historic fortifications and Guanabara Bay are spectacular. A view of the domestic airport hints that a reason pilots slam on their brakes upon landing is perhaps runways are short. It’s stop or land in the bay. Christ the Redeemer is but a small image across the city.
On both mountains, not only are fake photos taken unasked, but the shopping options overwhelm. It resembles the forced-march thru Duty Free shopping at airports.
Orchids growing atop Sugarloaf, providing colorful relief from the crowds, heat and shoppers.
So unpleasant, why go?
Both of these sites, Sugaloaf and Corcovado Mountain, represent iconic sites of Rio. Views are amazing, if clear. It would be like going to Paris and ignoring the Eiffel Tower, Pisa without the Leaning Tower, or Venice and no gondola. (Well I do admit finally after 46 years and several visits, I did finally board a gondola. I should have done it in 1972 when it had to be more pleasant.)
Escadaria Selarón – Saint Teresa’s Steps
Located within the neighborhood of Santa Teresa are the Escadaria Selaron or Saint Teresa’s Steps. Beyond all doubt, the steps proved to be the highlight of my day. The Selarón Steps represent a colorful, 215-step mosaic masterpiece created by Chilean artist Jorge Selarón.
Adorned with over 2000 brightly colored tiles from around the world, the steps connect the neighborhoods of Santa Teresa and Lapa. The artwork celebrates cultural diversity and represents a vibrant symbol of Rio’s artistic spirit.
When locals and visitors learned of Selarón’s project, friends and strangers alike sent tiles from around the world. Visiting these steps seems like examining a map of the world. It is an amazing and colorful artistic achievement.
From Swaziland to Alaska, from Utah to Tallinn, tiles represent countries, people and sites around the world.
Look, examine, take time and you will find a tile which represents your country, state or city.
The atmosphere is lively, with the mingling of scores of street vendors, local artists, and tourists. Climbing the stairs helps one to appreciate its colorful array of tiles, each contributing to the staircase’s unique design. The area offers fantastic photo opportunities.
Cathedral of Saint Sebastian
Perhaps this building is the strangest cathedral I have visited in the world. If you’ve seen a few cathedrals, you realize this one is damn dull, designed with what looks to be cargo-bay doors, totally open to the elements and similar to a drive-thru for “thoughts and prayers.”
The Metropolitan Cathedral of Saint Sebastian in the historic center of Rio looks very out-of-place as it represents modernist architecture with a unique conical shape. Completed in 1979, the cathedral features a 246 ft tower and stained-glass windows that create a dramatic play of light inside. Designed by architect Edgar Fonseca, the cathedral reflects a blend of modern aesthetics and traditional Catholic symbolism.
The interior stained glass is nice. However, the best photo occurs from the cathedral’s entrance. Across the street are tall glass buildings. The windows reflect stunning images of the cathedral which are far more attractive than the concrete cathedral itself.
Two highlights of Rio tour
While not a soccer fan, it represents an integral part of Brazilian life. Fans take the sport very seriously. I wouldn’t insult enthusiasts over soccer any more than I allowed myself to walk in angst out of the bullfight ring in Madrid in 1972.
The Maracanã Stadium acts as Rio’s temple and a sacred place for those who enjoy soccer. In front of the iconic stadium is a statue of Hilderaldo Luiz Bellini.
I googled Bellini and discovered he played defender for Brazilian football (soccer) and is worshipped as one of the nation’s greatest defenders ever.
I take a photo of the Stadium and Bellini statue so as not to offend our guide.
The Sambódromo da Marquês de Sapucaí, Sambadrome for short, was built as a parade ground to host Rio’s famous Carnival samba parades. Opened in 1984 and designed by Oscar Niemeyer, it features a long, narrow avenue flanked by grandstands to accommodate thousands of spectators. The Sambadrome is central to the annual Carnival festivities, where samba schools compete with elaborate floats, costumes, and performances.
Rio Carnival occurs in February/early March, depending on the date of Easter. The main events held over five days, from the Friday before Ash Wednesday to Ash Wednesday, lead up to Lent. Rio’s carnival could be compared to New Orleans’ Mardi Gras. While both occur around the same time and include music, dance, floats and costumes, Rio’s celebrations occur just in the Sambadrome. Carnival – kind-of like a power bar laced with steroids.
Our van briefly stops to allow a photo thru windows. Not much here but concrete and fan-stands. The views of the stadium improves from atop one of the hills. Enormous, it must be quite a sight when filled with carnival enthusiasts.
Close of day, cold cerveja awaits
I end a busy day with a salad and pasta. Tonight, I enjoy a cold Beefeater gin and tonic. Reasonable prices continue to surprise me, nay cheap prices for this Californian. Dinners with drinks are rarely more costly than US$20-25, less than half what I would pay in California.
Tomorrow, I dump the tours and explore on my own. I plan to see more of Rio. What I have experienced so far I would describe as shabby chic.
Perhaps it’s the heat – perhaps it’s because Rio is shabby chic.
