Central Valley minus Grandma Joad
27 December 2024
A road trip is an anonymous freedom on four wheels! Radial tires humming along open roads with endless horizons stretching out before me. Every mile brings a potential discovery of an unexpected gem of Americana. Along with my travel buddy, we are hitting the road set on discovery, relaxation and fun.
My friend Nancy flew in from New Orleans between storms and holiday travelers. Landing on time, we drove directly to beautiful downtown Bakersfield, California. The city invariably reminds me of Johnny Carson’s knack for making Bakersfield the butt of his monologue jokes, many of which I felt justly described my home town.
Entertaining Historical References
We make a sight-seeing loop through Arvin/Lamont where I spent decades working for the school district. It remains an area of endless vineyards, fields and cattle lots. John Steinbeck based part of his novel The Grapes of Wrath in this area. Much has changed since I arrived 55 years ago, including lots of security fencing around the high school. To the east, atop Bear Mountain and now the site of a National Cemetery, one can find a turnout and imagine the Joad family, grandma strapped to the top of their truck, pausing before descending into the heat and their new life in the fields of Kern County.
(In 1968, when I started teaching in Arvin, The Grapes of Wrath remained on the unofficially banned list. Farmers still objected to the book’s portrayal of migrant life in the fields.)
Motoring north along Comanche Drive, I remember the open fields; grapes and sugar beets, cotton, and lettuce (scene of Cesar Chavez organizing farm workers); times of flooding, dust storms and the occasional tarantula crossing the road. Driving into Bakersfield, we quickly drive by my home of over 30 years. Still standing, holding fond memories of my pets, Lam’s Chinese Restaurant, and Bakersfield College football games with their cannon blasts.
I have few fond memories of winter’s Tule fog nor summer’s blasts of heat. I met people around the world who told stories of their car breaking down in Bakersfield – always in the summer heat.
Wool Growers Restaurant
My friend Martha joins us for the highlight of the day – dinner at Wool Growers. If there is anything I miss about Bakersfield, it is the wonderful French Basque restaurants. The Basque left their homes in the Pyrenees, immigrating to California in the early 17th century. A large population settled in East Bakersfield to establish some of the town’s oldest, most historic hotels and restaurants. They knew how to herd sheep, build great handball courts (pelota), cook food and entertain guests. If lucky enough to have Basque friends, one attended their spring Rocky Mountain Oyster feast after their lambs were castrated.
The Wool Growers was started in 1954 by Mayie and JB Maitia, decades after the Pyrenees Restaurant originally opened in 1899. Both are still serving fantastic Basque meals.
The usual dinner setup can be a meal in itself and includes Pyrenees sourdough bread, salsa, vegetable soup, beans, marinated tomatoes, green salad, vegetables of the day, pasta and french fries. Pickled tongue is no longer part of this setup but can be ordered as a side. My friends and I are always happy to dine with those who stick their noses up at this wonderful dish. More for us!
Better like garlic because meals are heavy with it. My favorite entrées are the lamb, veal, or oxtail stew. Their standard red wine comes in refillable bottles and tastes better by the second glass. Dessert is available if one has room left. This is seldom the situation.
We have an enjoyable dinner, share stories, bag our left-overs, and, alas, must limit the wine. Nancy and I depart early for destinations east.
Downtown Mojave
Our drive takes us up Bear Mountain (no Grandma Joad on our roof), through Tehachapi and into the town of Mojave. While there are local sights, like the Space Port where dozens of unused commercial jets are stored, and the nearby Edwards AFB, there is little to see as we drive down main street to our overnight destination.
It’s dark but I know, even in tomorrow’s daylight, the road, railway lines, gas stations and fast-food joints are not a tourist highlight.
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