Tuesday, 25 March, 2025
Early train, Museum Pass in hand, reservations booked. We set off to explore Versailles.
Tourists, go that-a-way. Take your patience and good shoes. Be patient or stay home!
Château de Versailles impresses. Where did the Kings get all the money for such luxury? Its gardens offer a peaceful respite, hopefully. And, like Queen Marie, the Hamlet of Petite Trianon promises quiet amid nature. All this beauty and tranquility belies the tragic history behind Versailles.
Château de Versailles: A Masterpiece of Absolute Monarchy
Originally used as a modest hunting lodge for King Louis XIII in 1623, during the 1630s Versailles was transformed into a modest château.
Beginning in 1661, King Louis XIV, the “Sun King,” began to transform Versailles into his grand symbol of absolute monarchy. His massive 20-year expansion turned the lodge into an opulent palace. By 1682, Louis XIV moved the royal court and government into its halls.
Under Louis XIV, Versailles became the official seat of power and a model of French Baroque architecture. It also centralized the king’s political, cultural, and social life. The lavish palace, one of the most famous royal residences in the world, inspired other European monarchies, emphasizing France’s influence at the time.
Expanded by Louis XV and Louis XVI, Versailles is forever tied to Marie Antoinette and the French Revolution. In 1789, during the Revolution, the royal family was forced to leave Versailles for Paris. It was their final move.
One Palace Not Enough
Also located on the massive grounds, the Grand Trianon, built in 1687, became the pied-à-terre for the King. Then Louis XV (1715-1774) added the Petit Trianon (1768). He seemed more focused on scientific and artistic advancements than opulence. He tried to keep it simple.
However, his grandson, Louis XVI (1774-1792), inheriting the throne at the age of 20, took the word “ostentatious” to a new level in France. Among his few accomplishments was to give Versailles to his wife, Marie Antoinette, who created the Hameau de la Reine (Queen’s Hamlet), a retreat styled like a rustic village. Because court life revolved around strict etiquette, rituals, and displays of royal power, Marie loved to come here to play at being a simple countrywoman.
End of an Era
It was all extremely extravagant living which fueled resentment among the starving French population. In early October of 1789, the Women’s March on Versailles forced the royal family to abandon the palace and move to Paris. And we know how that ended for the royals! Marie Antoinette lost her head in 1793.
The French Republic seized Versailles, auctioned off furniture, and used it for government offices. Napoleon Bonaparte (1804-1815) used Versailles as a museum and residence for formal events.
Ultimately, in 1837, Louis-Philippe (1830-1848) converted the palace into the Museum of History of France and made it a national monument. By 1979, Versailles became a UNESCO World Heritage Site and remains as a site for France’s diplomatic events.
Everything But the Cattle Prod
Upon arrival, long lines of visitors wove through barriers. We proceeded relatively smoothly; passed through security intact. From there, it was all downhill.
While the rooms appear organized and present displays of historical significance, scores of people and cameras block views. Probably the best presentation was the video which plays in one of the first rooms entered.
Do not hope for a relaxing walk through the individual rooms. We shuffle along as a solid pack of curious onlookers moving in unison from room to room. While transiting along the set path of the Château, the only thing missing is the cattle prod and a guillotine at the end.
A break that refreshes one’s patience.
Refinements and Royal Extravagance
The Hall of Mirrors (1678–1684), originally just a passageway for courtiers, remains the most famous room, a breathtaking 240-foot-long gallery lined with 357 mirrors reflecting 17 massive arched windows that overlook the gardens. The beautiful ceiling paintings depict the military victories of Louis XIV, reinforcing his image as the Sun King. Lavish crystal chandeliers illuminate the space. Being a large hall, one has more opportunity to enjoy the details.
The Hall represents lots of dazzling reflection over many royal ceremonies which occurred here. In 1871 the German Empire was proclaimed after France’s defeat in the Franco-Prussian War. Also, the Hall witnessed the signing of the Treaty of Versailles (1919) ending World War I.
Escape Into the Gardens
The Gardens of Versailles span nearly 2,000 acres. Countless fountains, sculptures, and greenery decorate its expanse. The water diverts from the Seine to supply the grand fountains. In season, one can still float an oared boat on the waters of the 55-acre Grand Canal.
My favorite spot is a quiet walk through the forest and gardens to the Petit Trianon, the quiet sanctuary for Queen Marie Antoinette. Originally designed for Madame de Pompadour, who died before its completion, it became the residence of Madame du Barry, the last mistress of Louis XV.
Marie arrived at Versailles in 1770, as a 14-year-old girl, after marrying the future Louis XVI. Struggling with strict court etiquette, she was scrutinized for being Austrian. She became Queen at age 19, when Louis XV died and her husband became Louis XVI.
However, Marie was also known for her lavish spending, extravagant fashion, and love of entertainment. She redesigned her château with elegant neoclassical décor and private gardens. She included a hamlet of thatched-roof cottages, a dairy, and a working farm where she played at being a simple countrywoman. I’m told she even tried a hand at milking the cows.
“Lock the doors, Marie!”
Unfortunately, she combined simplicity with lavish balls, elaborate fashion and “pouf” hairstyles, but even more unfortunate for Marie, a lack of sympathy for the angry women who stormed Versailles demanding bread.
Gardens of the Petit Trianon
Marie Antoinette also redesigned the gardens, replacing formal French-style landscaping with an English-style garden that felt more natural and serene. These gardens offer winding paths, romantic groves, and hidden pavilions, far from the strict symmetry of Versailles’ gardens.
The Temple of Love is a delicate round pavilion with Corinthian columns where Marie enjoyed quiet moments. I’m told, here is where Marie was captured by the angry French citizens. I surmise, if there were as many paths and twists and turns then as there is now, the angry ladies might not have located Marie.
However, we know how her story ends: the monarchy was abolished in 1792, Marie was imprisoned and put on trial for treason in 1793. She met the executioner’s guillotine on 16 October of that year.
Tranquil Gardens No More
It would be a pleasant day exploring the rooms, gardens and walks at Versailles. I have memories of a tranquil row boat on the Grand Canal in 1979 and a young towheaded lad hoisting tne oars. This time, 46 years later, his 26-year-old daughter visits. Times flies when there is so much fun to be had. But alas, throngs of visitors make tranquility nearly impossible.
A tranquil row boat on the Grand Canal brings back memories of 1979 and a young tow-headed lad pulling those oars. Today, 46 years later, his 26-year-old daughter visits.
Times flies when there is so much fun to be had.
However, the crowds fill the rooms, clog the stairs, zoom around the gardens in small electric golf carts. Alas, I never imagined shopping would sound more appealing than visiting another museum.
Tour Eiffel
Visiting the Eiffel Tower is a classic Parisian experience that combines awe-inspiring views, architectural wonder, and a bunch of patience and stamina. The iconic iron structure, designed by Gustave Eiffel, stands at a towering 1,083 feet, offering sweeping panoramas of the city below. Originally built for the World’s Fair in 1889, it was a hated eyesore, until it wasn’t.
Great athletes climb the stairs all the way from the ground to the top in less than 10 minutes! A race named the “Vertical Race” regularly takes place at the Tower; dozens of athletes from all over the world compete to climb the 1,665 stairs to the top as fast as possible. The men’s record is held by Poland’s Piotr Lobodzinski, who came in under 8 minutes, and the women’s by Australian Suzy Walsham, at under 10 minutes. They deserve a glass of champagne at the top!
Our journey begins at its base. There is so much security, so many lines, masses of people. Once inside, an elevator ascends to the second floor. We fit into the lift like sardines, apt description for the all-metal Eiffel. At the second floor, we slowly weave though lines to board a second lift. Reaching the summit, we enjoy unparalleled vistas, if you can get to the windows. Today, the views are hazy.
Lines, Lines, Lines
For every booked reservation, there are at least 10 times as many visitors standing in the queues. Without direction-pointing by staff, the situation would be far worst. Maybe if I stood a foot or so taller, I could find the proper lines to join. As it is, multitudes surround us, squeezed in by ropes, barriers, and rules.
Even Parisians Eat Pizza
It appears we still need to develop a reasonable eating g schedule. Arriving at the base of the Eiffel, we are hungry and thirsty. The first two restaurants could not accommodate us. We settled on pizza.
Better still, returning to our hood, we located a pleasant restaurant where we could relax. Chocolate crepes and chilled Chardonnay helped ease the frustration over long lines, slow security, and hoards of people.
We close our tiring Tuesday in Paris as an 8.9-mile, 25,682-step, 16-floor day.
À ta santé
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