20 March 2025
Departing Saint-Malo, we drive west through farm land, lush forests, and small villages to the headlands of Cap Fréhel. Occasionally, we spy peeks of bays and a rugged Brittany coast. Stone buildings dot the way. This land has seen the passage of everyone from the Knights Templars to Resistance Fighters and Allied soldiers of WWII. Now us.
Knights Templars
The Knights Templars, or “red monks,” formed in Jerusalem in 1118. The Knights acted as the protectors of the Christian ppilgrims across Brittany during the Middle Ages, especially those who traveled to Le Mont-Saint-Michel or along the Santiago de Compostela in Spain.
In spite of their vows of poverty, chastity and obedience, these warriors eventually fell from favor. After their dissolution throughout Europe in 1312, ordered by King Philip of France and approved by Pope Clement V, some unfortunate Knights faced persecution and burning at the stake.
At Port À La Duc, access to the Templar Circuit provides either a hike through tranquil countryside or exciting road travel for tourists.
We Drive the Road
At Port à La Duc, we find our junction – unimpressive considering its possible history. Supposedly, here lies a stèle placed in honor of the French Resistance. I don’t spot it. However, the ensuing drive down a very narrow road and along the bay is exciting. Yes, we decide the road is two-way as signs face us and other cars don’t panic when they see us coming.
The drive proves quiet and uneventful. Green fields indicate farm and dairy country.
Menhr de La Roche Goyon
About 5 miles in, we stop at Menhr de La Roche Goyon. We leave the car in the lot, this time noting its location. From here, we walk to the point and Fort la Latte (Château de La Roche Goyon).
Along the route stands the Menhir de La Roche Goyon – a large standing megalithic stone (menhir), likely dating back to the Neolithic period (4500–2500 BC). Prehistoric peoples erected these menhirs for unknown purposes, though they are often associated with religious, astronomical, or territorial significance.
Isolated on the rugged coastline of northern Brittany, this site stands as a reminder of the region’s rich prehistoric past and is part of Brittany’s extensive collection of megalithic sites, which includes the famous Carnac stones (more later).
Like many megaliths in Brittany, legends surround the history of the menhir. Some believe it was used for rituals by the Druids or even earlier Neolithic societies. Some researchers speculate the stone may have been part of an ancient astronomical alignment. One local myth suggests the Menhir represents a warrior turned to stone for defying supernatural forces. Take your pick.
Fort La Latte
From the Menhir, it is a short but pleasant hike to the Château sitting high upon cliffs overlooking the Emerald Coast and English Channel. Built around 1340 by the Goyon-Matignon family, the medieval fortress includes dungeons, towers and all the accoutrements for serious protection from invaders.
King Louis XIV modernized the castle during the 17th century to serve as a coastal defense against English invasions. Two drawbridges, a deep moat, thick defensive walls kept invaders out, and a 40-foot fortified tower. We could see breathtaking panoramic views of the sea and coast line all the way to Cap Fréhel and, if clearer, possibly to the Bay of Saint-Malo.
One legend tells of ghostly knights walking around and secret tunnels beneath the castle. Didn’t see or hear any clanking of armor.
Hiking Cap Fréhel
From the castle, one may drive or walk the 3 miles to Cap Fréhel. We choose to hike the coastline. While the hike enjoys terrific views, sea breezes and quiet, it is challenging.
Towering over 230-feet above the sea, the pinkish sandstone cliffs of Cap Fréhel provide dramatic views of the Emerald Coast. One can imagine, if really clear, being able to see across the channel to Guernsey or the English coastline 100 miles away. The strip of land on the far horizon is Jersey. This must epitomize one of Brittany’s most spectacular coastal landscapes.
While the Allies considered areas around Brittany for their invasion and landings, Cap Fréhel presented challenges. Allies chose the beaches of Normandy but still had to fortify this finger of land in order to secure supply lines and prevent the Germans from expanding here. With defense in mind, the French destroyed the old electro-semaphore (a signaling device) in 1940. Some sites of trenches, bunkers, gun bases, and old radar installations remain.
The 108-foot Cap Fréhel Lighthouse, built in 1950, represents one of the five most powerful lighthouses in France. It was not operating when we were there, but when in use its beam can be seen for over 30 miles.
Protected as a nature reserve, the Cap’s rocks and cliffs act as refuge to large numbers of seabirds, including cormorants, razorbills, guillemots and adorable puffins.
The heather, gorse and wildflowers are just beginning to bloom over the moorland. Legends say pirates and smugglers hung out here. So say the rumors.
Earning My Steps
Hiking the trail from Fort to Cap is challenging but affords great views.
Total excursion took about 31/2 hours, but I easily achieved my steps.
Return to Saint-Malo
We follow our GPS as we navigate the rural roads of France. Weather remains pleasant. The Brittany breezes blow. No surprise there.
Returning to Saint-Malo, we park outside the Great Gate and continue our exploration of the Intra-Muras, inner walls of old town. Locating a pleasant restaurant, we once again toast our good fortune, France, and our smart little Peugeot.
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