Paris – City of Light 

23 March 2025 

There are cities in the world that deserve repeated visits. Being the greatest on any list is an honorable position. Paris fits that description. I rejoice in visiting the City of Light for the third time this decade. Sharing it with first-time visitor Gabrielle makes it even better.  

 When my niece Gabrielle said she wanted to see some of France, I took the opportunity to invite myself along. “Pick some sites” I suggested. Then, when done, “I would love to share Paris.” 

The Good, The Bad and The Inconvenient

Mid-March is a fine time to visit. The weather reaches pleasant daytime temperatures even tho nights are cold 40s and windy, an umbrella serves to ward off the infrequent rain, and prices are comparable to home. Unfortunately, crowds are horrendous. I had hoped crowds would be thinner this time of year. Alas, not to be. I’ll gripe more as I travel Paris. 

Big challenges occur when visiting popular destinations. Travel no longer allows “just showing up.” I read strongly-worded suggestions for pre-booking and required reservations for museums; I am so glad I followed them. 

Decisions were made to smooth our journey. These included purchase of transportation passes (Navigo 5-day pass which goes into our Wallet), the Museum Pass (96 hours), required pre-booking entry reservations (Louvre, Sainte Chapelle, Versailles and Trianon, among others), and tickets for the Palais Garnier because of its limited accessibility. 

March falls within the “low season” for tourism in Paris (insert loud laughter here). Booking reservations from home proved okay. However, all this pre-booking restricts one’s schedule and locks us into a tight itinerary. Also, to exacerbate the problem further, many museums, siting prevalence of fraud, are limiting booking and reservations to 3-7 days prior. No last-minute stops or changes allowed. Less freedom means less sights seen. 

Early morning train to Paris

To make the most of our days, and arrive in time for our first reservation, we arrange early departure from the Rennes train station for our 2-hour ride into Paris. Arriving at Gare Montparnasse, we walk forever, it seems,  to a metro to Les Halles.

Père Lachaise Cemetery

However, others of note in other areas include Marcel Proust, Oscar Wilde, Sarah Bernhardt, Edith Piaf, Yves Montand, Molière, Gertrude Stein and more. And of course, Jim Morrison of the Doors was interred here after his untimely death from “heart failure” at the age of 27. 

Père-Lachaise represents Paris’s largest and perhaps the world’s most-visited cemetery. Its tree-lined avenues span 110 acres. The site, known for royal visits and lavish gatherings, became a municipal cemetery in 1804 to address overcrowding of city cemeteries. Established on a former Jesuit retreat (it has always been nondenominational), it received its named from King Louis XIV’s confessor, Père La Chaise. 

Père-Lachaise reflects the ethnic mix of Paris itself. A Jewish tomb could be next to an Asian family,  beside a Muslim next to someone whose epitaph is written in Spanish. There are massive sculptures, art installations, and tombs fallen into disrepair. All represents a slice of Paris’ history.  

Palais Garnier  

When I saw photos of the interior of Paris’ Opera House, I knew I had to visit. The Paris Opera has two theater houses, the Garnier and the Bastille. A Self-Guided Tour allows us the opportunity to see the public areas and access the exhibits. 

First big complaint: the horrendous lines and disorganization outside the gates. We had timed reservations but had to shove our way through those hoping to visit. No signs indicated a separate entrance or line. They have got to do better. There were probably more than 300 people outside the gates. Only thing missing was the masses screaming for food. 

Opened on 5 Jan 1875, Palais Garnier is celebrating its 150th anniversary. Designed by Charles Garnier during Napoleon III’s reign, the Garnier blends classical, baroque, and renaissance styles to create a Second Empire architectural masterpiece. Serving as a theater and venue for festivities, it represents a symbol of political power and French history. 

We visit stunning areas like the Subscriber’s Rotunda, Pythia Basin, and Grand Staircase. The Library/Museum explores how the Garnier transformed from an elite venue commissioned by Napoleon III into a national monument. Costumes were on display spanning from the 1950s to the present. The exhibition also honors the 60th anniversary of Marc Chagall’s impressive ceiling with costumes from Daphnis et Chloé.

Montmartre 

As a fun area to stroll and dine, one has to do the climb if one wishes to spend the time. Thankfully, there is another option. This Montmartre funicular opened during the summer of 1990. I read somewhere that the original funicular was water-powered and used a system of cisterns that would be filled or emptied depending on the passenger load. 

Today, its journey lasts 90 seconds and is completely automatic. The Navigo Pass covers the cost. Most importantly, the ride avoids the exhausting climb up Montmartre’s 197 steps.

Other than the atrocious locks, the balconies at the top afford striking views over Paris. Dark clouds come rolling in and heavy rain scatters the hoards of “salesmen” and their 1€ buys so neatly displayed on their blankets along the pavement. Not so with the long line of visitors entering the cathedral. 

Sacré-Cœur

The basilica has remained an important place of worship since 1885. Two of the most beautiful features of the interior of Sacré-Cœur are the mosaic of Christ in Majesty and the grand dome. The mosaic, one of the largest in the world, covers over 4,800 square feet. Completed in 1923, it depicts Christ with outstretched arms, surrounded by saints and the Virgin Mary, in shimmering gold and blue tones.

The grand dome rises 272 feet above the basilica floor, creating an awe-inspiring sense of space. Light filters through the windows, enhancing the serene and spiritual atmosphere.

Place du Tertre

Known for its lively atmosphere and as a gathering place for artists, it has changed a lot over the years.  Many of the artists have been replaced by large, impersonal cafes. The square remains surrounded by cafés and restaurants. Once home to famous artists like Picasso and Utrillo, I wonder if any such artist of today wound think any bohemian attraction remains in Place du Tertre.

Le Chat Noir

When in Paris, I covet the chance to eat escargot.  We share a serving over a very nice Chardonnay.  My prawns and creamy risotto tasted sublime. Sipping a chilled white wine surrounded by the spirit of black cats: seems a good way to end a busy day.