18 March 2025
Sometimes the most challenging part of visiting a foreign country is pronouncing your city of destination. One wrong inflection, and I would find myself hundreds of kilometers from my room for the night. Such is the case with our first stop: Rennes. I may think I correctly pronounce the city’s name, but the French say differently.
For Americans, European train travel is so civilized and convenient. But then, we are not apt to discover big bombs, well, at least not WW2 ordinance!
Earlier this month while replacing a railway bridge just a few miles from here, construction workers discovered what SNCF described as a “really huge” unexploded ordinance. The 1100 pound bomb dropped some 80 years ago, contained over 440 pounds of explosives. Enough to make a really, really big hole!
Rèn
We boarded a train at Montparnasse in Paris and traveled less than 3 hours to Rennes. Our lodging, Hotel Campanile, sits within a few steps of the train station.
Rèn, with over 2,000 years of history, originated as the Gallic village of Condate before becoming a key city in the ancient Duchy of Brittany. From the 16th century until the French Revolution, it served as an administrative center for the province of Brittany.
Notable events include the 1675 Stamped Paper Revolt and the partial stone reconstruction of its medieval wooden center after the fire of 1720. Mostly rural until WWII, Rèn experienced rapid growth in the 20th century due to industrialization and the development of an automotive sector.
The city continues to expand. It is now a hub for high-tech and digital innovation. In 2002, Rèn became the smallest city globally with a Metro line. Recognized as a city of art and history, Rèn boasts a well-preserved medieval and classical heritage with over 90 historic monuments.
Amazing Sites of Rèn
Old cities mean great center squares, cathedrals and historic buildings. We walk north across the Vilaine River to explore the city.
Markets are a place of activity and color. Typically, La Criée Marché Central is crammed with local fruits, vegetables, cheese, meats, fish, specialty foods and crafts abound. This afternoon, stalls are quiet. The usual array of butchers, fishmongers, and vendors have sold their products and headed home for the day.
Walking deeper into the old city, we explore Les Portes Mordelaises, the historic gateway into the fortified city of Rèn since the 15th century. Today the site consists of two tall crenellated Gothic towers and a fortified gate and drawbridge.
Actually, the location for the gate dates much further back into the 3rd century when Mideval ramparts encircled Rèn. The present gatehouse was built in 1440. History tells that the king and his warriors took oaths of allegiance under the gate.
Cathédrale Saint-Pierre
Nearby the Cathédrale Saint-Pierre, which has stood on this site since the 6th century, acted as the burial place of Rèn’s first bishop. A Gothic cathedral replaced the original structure in the 12th century, but its west front and tower collapsed in 1490. Rebuilt with neoclassical granite towers over two centuries, the façade was completed in 1704, standing 158 feet tall.
In 1754, structural issues led to the demolition and reconstruction of the nave and choir, with only the towers and west front preserved. This work, interrupted by the French Revolution, resumed in 1816 and concluded in 1845. Though originally designed in neo-classical style, the cathedral was lavishly refurbished after WWII with gilt, stucco, and paintings.
Rèn Invites Strolling
We explore quiet cobbled streets passing historic half-timbered houses. This unique architectural style dates back to the late 15th century and remained popular for around 300 years.
The style evolved when people used the materials that were readily available in their local area rather than transporting materials from other parts of the country. As Normandy enjoyed an abundance of trees centuries back, timber became the obvious choice as a building material.
There is a rally and speakers in Place de la Mairie (Town Hall Square), Rèn’s central square. Palestine flags fly, leaflets are handed out. I wish them luck as their plight does not appear promising.
Dominated by the Hôtel de Ville (City Hall), its prominent clock tower sits on one side and the Opera House on the other. The buildings surrounding the square are in a classical French architecture.
Streets and cafes are busy. This becomes a pleasant stroll for two tired travelers.
A Pause to Refresh
Always, the Pièce de résistance of any historic city, including Rèn, is a pedestrian passageway, historic square or busy cafe with a view. We return to the pedestrian area, choose a cafe and pause.
Over a wonderful glass of French white wine, admiring my view, I am reminded how enjoyable it is to be back in France.
Though neither of us are hungry, we order dinner and refreshments. We enjoy a tasty meal of gnocchi, not exactly French but deliciously, perfectly prepared.
As the skies darken, my day ends much more relaxed than it began many, many hours ago in the rain and rainbows of California.
So much to see – so much to experience. Tomorrow our horizons will expand south.
0 Comments