19-21 March 2025
In fall of 2019, I visited this city and thought “a perfect stop. I wish I had more time.” Well, the time has come as Gabrielle and I lodge here for the next two nights. I choose the same hotel as I know it offers parking and an easy walk into the Intra-Muras, inner walls, of the old city.
Saint-Malo is a small, pleasant Brittany port city encompassed by imposing granite walls. Sturdy bastions and fortifications surround the city. Once a port for privateers (pirates approved by the king), steeples and towers punctuate its historic skyline. Cathedral bells echo over the rooftops. Beach boys kick soccer balls across the sand. Kayakers paddle the bay. A windsurfer sails across tne bay. Tides come in and tides roll out.
Walk the Walls and Bastions
From the bastions, enjoy panoramic views of the rugged Brittany coastline, the sparkling sea, spectacular sunsets, and the historic walled city itself. Stops include Bastion Saint Louis, the Great Gate, Tower Bidouane, Tour Notre Dame, Bastion Hollande, Porte Dinan. The sight of these old fortifications, the tidal waters, and the charming rooftops of Saint-Malo creates a truly unforgettable experience, blending natural beauty with historical significance.
Tides tend to be dramatic. I can see the water come in from the sea, covering beach, walkways and the seaside swimming pool. No need to empty or clean as the seas do this daily, waters slowly overflowing the walls and diving platform.
Fort National
Because the tide was out, we walked across the sands to Fort National at the western end of the Grande Plage. The fort sits atop l’Îlette Rock and acted as a convenient spot to execute local criminals. Today, it affords a great panorama of the city and sea.
The fort was built about 1689 by Vauban, Louis XIV’s military architect. Saint-Malo’s fortifications were tested in 1693 by Anglo-Dutch ships, after having bombed Fort La Latte off the coast of Cap Fréhel. Evidently, the attackers had created a secret weapon.
“The ship measured 84 feet long, had 3 bridges, a capacity of 300 barrels and 23 cannons. To approach the coast easily, its keel was only 7 feet high. Its sails were black and the sides filled with powder, bombs and scrap metals.”
Unfortunately for the invaders, Mother Nature came to the rescue of Saint-Malo. A violent storm from the west pushed the ship onto the rocks, cannons ignited and resulted in the ship exploding and killing all on board. The ramparts remained unharmed.
Bridge to Grand Be
Also, during low tide, one may cross to the island off the back beach. Grand Be (or tomb)not only has the remains of a fort on it, but also is the site for the grave of the town’s most famous son, François-René Chateaubriand. A French writer, politician, diplomat and historian who died 4 July 1848, those outside of France probably recognize Chateaubriand for the thick beef tenderloin steak named in his honor.
City fortifications
A second favorite son of Saint-Malo was the 1764, French explorer and military officer, Louis-Antoine de Bougainville. He sailed from this port to establish a settlement on East Falkland and named a port there honoring Saint-Malo’s Port Saint Louis. And yes, he got the flower named in his honor, too.
Wandering the Cobbled Streets
To truly soak in the charm of Saint-Malo, I’d recommend simply wandering its cobbled streets. Using no strict plan, climb the ramparts but definitely wander Intra-Muras (the walled city). Follow the narrow alleys lined with stone buildings, discover hidden courtyards, bistros and boutiques, small artisan shops, and cozy cafés. There exists a plethora of interesting shops, bakeries and crêperies. Indulge to your heart’s, or stomach’s content. Take in the atmosphere.
Cathédrale Saint-Vincent
The Grand Rue is a shopping street that leads to city center and Cathédrale Saint-Vincent. Built in Romanesque and Gothic styles during the episcopacy of Jean de Châtillon (1146-1163). Even earlier, the location was the site of an ancient church founded in the 7th century. To this day, the cathedral acts as a stop on the Tro-Breiz pilgrimage that links the towns of the seven founding saints of Brittany.
The city of Saint Malo suffered much bombing and artillery fire by both Germans and Americans during August 1944. Shells fired from a German minesweeper decapitated the cathedral steeple which toppled onto the Sacred Heart Chapel causing huge damage. The prized 1893 organ was destroyed, and much stained glass was lost. In 1972, after 28 years of work, a restoration was completed.
The cathedral exhibits several notable objects, including a unique bronze high altar. Spectacular windows adorn various parts of the cathedral. The stained glass depicts key moments in the city’s religious and historical past.
On the south side of the nave, two windows illustrate the arrival of Saint Malo in 560 and Jacques Cartier’s 1535 voyage. The north nave features three windows showcasing Saint Vincent’s martyrdom (304), the founding of the Saint-Malo See (1152), and the Tro-Breiz Christian pilgrimage. Above the main door, hidden behind the organ, a stained-glass window portrays the Assumption of the Virgin.
The Great Rose Window (at right), designed in 1968, replaced the original destroyed in an English attack in 1693. A notable 1970 window on the north side honors the seven founders of the Breton bishoprics.
There are huge windows done in simple geometric pastels. However, the stained-glass in the choir, ambulatory, and transept stand out for their vibrancy and artistic heritage.
Dine and Indulge in a Glass of Grape
Near Porte Saint-Vincent lies Lion D’Or. We chose to dine on a delicious, but messy/juicy Gorgonzola Burger and excellent Bœuf Bourguignon. Service was gracious seeing as most people do not dine early like we do.
I am a wine drinker but typically not anywhere close to knowledgeable. Sort of “I know what I like” sort of drinker. Therefore, choosing wine always presents a dilemma as grapes and varietals pose questions. Gabrielle leans toward Chardonnay and I look for a dry, crisp white like Sauvignon Blanc or Viognier. Whatever we order, the glass of grape tastes great.
Across the way from Lion D’Or is the enticing Bakery Maison Hector. Their store is brimming with desserts and chocolates. We choose a couple for later enjoyment.
In the ferry terminal area is the L’Amiral Saint-Malo. We dine at sunset.
The menu lists many wonderful dishes. When on the sea, choose seafood. Or at least, eat something that floats on, swims in, or crawls on the sea floor. Here, we enjoy roast duck and an excellent preparation of sea scallops. Again, the wine was superb. We never have room for dessert.
Our “farewell to Saint-Malo” occurred at Le Café de Saint Malo within the city walls and close to Porte Saint-Vincent.
A fried goat cheese salad and delicious monk fish wrapped in bacon and surrounded by a creamy mushroom sauce satisfied our hunger. Again, wine proved excellent. And, according to California prices, wine and dinner are priced reasonably.
Again, wine proved excellent. And, according to California prices, wine and dinner are priced reasonably.
Time and Tide
In his 14th Century book, “The Canterbury Tales”, author Geoffrey Chaucer wrote the now-famous phrase, “Time and tide wait for no man.” That appears true for the Brittany Coast and Saint-Malo. While breezes are brisk, the weather has been perfect for hiking trails, walking beaches, wandering fortress walls and bastions, and climbing rocks.
Tomorrow, we depart in search of more rocks.
