14-15 April 2025
Crosby Stills & Nash spoke of “saving all my money Just to take you there.” They sing of “Blowing smoke rings” and the “Striped djellabas” of Marrakech. They also spelled it Marrakesh but I’ll let that go. Any way you spell this city, it means adventure, history, and fun.
Abu Bakr ibn Umar a leader of the Almoravid dynas, founded Marrakech in 1070. Originally established as a military and trade outpost, it quickly grew into a major cultural and economic center. The Almoravids built mosques, palaces, and extensive irrigation systems, shaping the city’s early identity.
In the 12th century, the Almohads conquered Marrakech, destroying much of the Almoravid architecture and rebuilding the city, including the iconic Koutoubia Mosque. In fact, Marrakech flourished as a capital under several dynasties, including the Saadians in the 16th century, who enriched it with monuments like the Saadian Tombs and El Badi Palace.
Ultimatey, by the 20th century, Marrakech became a popular destination for artists, writers, and travelers. And to describe Marrakech as a lively city is an immense understatement!
Koutoubia Mosque
The Koutoubia Mosque represents the largest mosque in Marrakech. Its stunning minaret towers 253-foot into the blue Moroccan sky. Built in the 12th century during the reign of the Almohad Caliph Yaqub al-Mansur, it serves as a beautiful example of Moroccan-Andalusian architecture.
The original mosque was built in 1147 by Almohad caliph Abd al-Mu’min shortly after he captured Marrakesh from the Almoravids. Around 1158, Abd al-Mu’min completely rebuilt a second version, and Ya’qub al-Mansur completed the construction of the minaret about 1195. This second version is the structure that remains today.
The mosque was built of sandstone and features intricate geometric designs and horseshoe arches. The minaret, adorned with decorative bands and topped with golden orbs, acts as a symbol of Marrakech.
Beautifully landscaped gardens filled with palm trees, fountains, and flowers surround the mosque. Non-Muslims cannot enter the mosque.
The mosque stands near Jemaa el-Fna, making it a landmark visible from much of the Medina. Also, somewhat across the street sits the Grand Casino but that represents a different side of the Moroccan dirham.
At night, subtle illumination creates a striking silhouette against the Marrakech sky. It is a special evening for us as we dine on a rooftop terrace and enjoy the view, Call to Prayer, and spectacular sunset, all well above the continued pandemonium of the streets below.
Beautiful Palaces and Riads of Marrakech
Marrakech acts as home to several stunning palaces (Bahai, El Badi, the Royal Palace and Dar Si Said) each reflecting the city’s rich history and architectural splendor. Several of its homes have been transformed into restaurants or intimate riads. Each palace tells a different story of the city’s past; each riad blends intricate craftsmanship, history, and elegance.
This tile is a traditional form of Moroccan mosaic made from individually chiseled, hand-glazed terracotta tiles. These small, colorful pieces are meticulously arranged into intricate geometric patterns and arabesques, reflecting Islamic artistic traditions.
The craft dates back to at least the 10th century and remains a defining feature of Moroccan architecture, adorning palaces, mosques, fountains, and courtyards. Zellij boasts vibrant colors, mathematical precision, and incredible artistry.
Visiting any of these buildings will leave one in awe at the opulence enjoyed by its former residents. Huge open courtyards, fountains, and tile work show stunning craftsmanship. Zellij tile can be seen everywhere.
Hiking the Atlas Mountains
As much as I love museums, mosques, squares and gardens, I also love to get out into nature. I am never disappointed by the accomplishments of Mother Nature.
We begin in the Berber village of Dar Imlil. Streets are narrow and lined with shops. Donkeys and mules provide local transportation. I spot lots of shops selling or renting hiking gear and even ski equipment.
Today, we hike above Dar Imlil through the beautiful meadows and villages of the High Atlas Mountains. I sort of expected some forests, maybe a river or two.
What I discovered was a lot of rocks: big, small, gigantic, flat, rounded rocks. The mountain slopes are barren and brown but majestic. Rushing streams cut through the valleys encouraging green grass to grow and sheep to happily graze. The environs and views prove quite spectacular.
To the south, Toubkal Mountain acts as our backdrop. Standing at over 13,671 feet, Toubkal ranks as the highest peak in the Atlas Mountains and the Arab world. Its rugged slopes offer fantastic views, dramatic valleys, and a challenging yet rewarding trek.
There was lots of rain last week. Clear water is rushing down the rivers and channels. Snow-capped peaks of the Atlas appear in the distance.
During our ascent, we pass through Berber villages, walk ancient mule paths oftentimes with the mules, and enjoy high-altitude landscapes. Climbing to the path’s summit offers a challenge but the panoramic vistas stretch for miles. For this flatlander, climbing to about 6100 ft satisfied my call to nature.
We enjoy a wonderful restaurant among the boulders. Yes, it was a lamb tajine. Excellent and tender. I will eventually miss tajine when back in California.
One More Tajine
I looked forward to the special Moroccan dish called tajine. It appears cooks across Morocco has dozens of variations on its theme. After over three weeks in country, they have become a little tiresome. However, presentation, taste, and views while dining on my umteenth tajine seem to make it all enjoyable.
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