9 April 2025
Thomas Lawrence, soldier and archaeologist, served in Saudi Arabia during WWI as a liaison between the British government and the Arab tribes. Such reality never gets in the way of location shooting when it comes to movies. Those gorgeous desert vistas seen in the movie Lawrence of Arabia lay in Jordan and here in Morocco.
We visit the sand and village where filming occurred some 62 years ago. By now, I’m sure all the camels, like Lawrence, have gone to the big movie studio in the sky.
Aït Benhaddou – No Movie Stars Seen
Surely, most people have viewed the movie classic, Lawrence of Arabia, at some time. The movie is based, lightly, on the story of Thomas Lawrence who, in 1916, was posted by the British government to Hejaz in what was an independent Hashemite Kingdom of western Asia, now modern-day Saudi Arabia.
Lawrence took the role to heart and assumed the robes, lifestyle and camel-riding abilities of the locals (so did his counterpart, Peter O’Toole). His contacts with the various tribes of the area were meant to secure a British foothold in the region during those troubled times. Lawrence’s achievements are chronicled and somewhat glorified in the movie.
Everyone knows that when it comes to real estate, and movies, it is location, location, location. Reality may not enter the picture. While the spectacular desert scenes were mostly filmed in Jordan, many village scenes happened here at Aït Benhaddou.
Atlas Film Studios
Aït Benhaddou, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is an ancient ksar, a fortress-like village of earthen clay buildings, perched on a hill along the old caravan route between the Sahara and Marrakech. It feels frozen in time with its maze of mud-brick homes, defensive walls, and narrow alleys. Probably the reason it represented a 1916 village in 1961.
Other films used Aït Benhaddou as a backdrop, included Michael Douglas’ Jewel of the Nile and Martin Scorsese’s The Last Temptation of Christ. The Atlas Film Studios, based near Ouarzazate, acted as Scorsese’s base when filming village scenes. Also, the Meknes stables we visited acted as the interior of a temple. I also read that scenes for Gladiator(spoiler alert: the colosseum where the gladiator died built here), The Man Who Would Be King, The Mummy Returns, and Game of Thrones (Season 3) filmed at this location.
Anti-Atlas region
We drive south to again join the N10, the only road heading west. The hills are barren, brown and dusty. High Atlas towers in the distance. I appreciate the landscape while at the same time hope for no mechanical failures. There exists little out here to break up the miles passing through this Anti-Atlas region.
The Anti-Atlas represents a rugged, arid mountain range stretching from the Atlantic Ocean to the edge of the Sahara. It is characterized by dramatic rocky landscapes, deep valleys, and scattered Berber villages. Less visited than the High Atlas, it offers a remote and wild beauty with ancient kasbahs, almond groves, and hidden oases. The region is also rich in fossils and minerals, attracting geologists and collectors.
The landscape reminds me of the mesas of our own deserts in New Mexico. We climb over the pass at over 5300’ to see more barren earth for miles, all covered with various-sized rocks. I see efforts to till the soil. What a challenge!
Sometimes Guides Dig Deep
I have noticed, at times, a guide needs to dig deep for something to entertain their charges in order to break up the monotony of long drives.
Perhaps it represents an effort to distract riders from the crazy drivers sharing the road. Actually, stops and Magnum Bars tend to work nicely. In today’s case, our guide points out trees. And bathrooms.
Vallée des Roses
While Marrakech might be called “Rose City,” the real roots of roses lie within the fertile Rose Valley. In 2014, UNESCO recognized the Valley of Roses as a Global Geopark, making it the only place in Morocco to receive this designation.
Valley of Roses offers stunning views of dry ocher landscapes contrasted with lush green fields nourished by the waters of Oued Dades. This waterway sustains vast fields of wild roses, which bloom mostly during April, painting the valley in shades of pink. Unfortunately, it is too early to “stop and smell the roses.”
The region thrives on a flourishing rose industry, producing high-quality rose water. Each year, around 4,000 tons of rose petals are harvested. Distillation factories extract the essence of these roses for use in soaps, lotions, masks, and perfumes. You think of a use, it can probably include roses.
It reminds me of Gilroy, California, “Garlic Capital of the World.” If you can imagine it, garlic can be added. Even in ice cream.
We stop along the road, of course, for a shopping opportunity. Most times these shops are more expensive for the same products one can purchase in the local Medinas. But the constant sales pitch is this is the only pure product, the Medinas can’t be trusted.
However, rose water is not the same product as rose oil. Rose water is a fragrant liquid made by steam-distilling rose petals, while rose oil is a highly concentrated extract containing the flower’s strongest aromatic compounds. Rose water, a byproduct of rose oil production, captures the water-soluble elements, while the essential oil retains the oil-soluble properties, making it much more potent.
What are Argan Trees?
Actually, I should know Argan trees as I have used Argan soap. But today, I learn more about this plant and product. Argan trees are hardy, drought-resistant and native to Morocco, particularly the Souss Valley and the foothills of the Anti-Atlas Mountains.
Known for their twisted, gnarled branches, these trees help prevent desertification (when fertile land becomes desert, typically due to drought, deforestation, or overgrazing).
Often, one sees goats climbing them to eat the leaves and fruit. They, the trees not the goats, produce small, green fruits containing hard nuts (similar to almonds), from which prized Argan Oil is extracted.
People use Argan Oil for both culinary and cosmetic purposes. In cooking, it produces a nutty flavor, and chefs often drizzle it over bread, couscous, or salads. In cosmetics, it is cold-pressed to have moisturizing and anti-aging properties. Specifically, it helps hydrate skin, strengthen hair, and improve nail health.
Okay, lead me to the shopping.
Sousse Valley
We leave the region of Drâa-Tafilalet and entered Souss-Massa. Not much in the way of landscape has changed. Pausing in the small town of Taliouine, population about 7,000, we learn about their production of saffron. The country’s saffron cultivation is predominantly concentrated in the Taliouine area, where over 90% of Morocco’s saffron is farmed.
Farmers grow the crocus-lime flower between the almond trees. This village is one of the main exporters of saffron in the world.
Sampling their saffron tea, I admit tastes slightly worse than mint tea, I learn of another shopping opportunity. Saffron, like a small vial of Argan Oil, takes little space in one’s backpack.
The prices are expensive, supposedly like buying gold dust. Small 1 gram = 1,000 milligrams $6; 3 grams = $30. For the math challenged over 28 grams in an ounce.
Moroccan saffron is noted for its rare availability and distinct characteristics, including its rich flavour and aroma. However, unless your culinary skills rank on the level of a Julia Child’s or Gordon Ramsey, probably the saffron sold in the Medinas will suffice.
The Sousse Valley also thrives with its abundant orange groves. These groves create a vibrant contrast to the surrounding arid landscapes. During this time of year, trees burst into blossom filling the air with the sweet scent of citrus.
Groves of orange, lemon, and mandarin trees stretch down neat rows. Their glossy green leaves provide a refreshing oasis of color in this brown backdrop of desert. Mountain streams and underground channels irrigate the trees and agriculture. Drip systems are common.
Weather Changes
We continue our drive west as winds kick up the desert. Gone are the blue skies. Visibility is shortened to a few miles.
My weather app indicates rain on both sides of is as the storms flow east. I can almost imagine how the nomads and their camels would want to hunker down behind a rock. Heaven knows there are enough rocks!
Taroudant
We leave the N10 to turn southward toward Taroudant. Here we lodge for two nights at the Dar al Hossoun. Our hotel is modern, comfortable and French. Wifi earns a thumbs-up. Lush gardens invite strolling. Furthermore, it offers a lap swimming pool where one can exercise amid the peacock calls. All seems well in Taroudant.
Luxurious would pretty much sum it all up.
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