13 April 2025
Whoopa….
Would you know we’re riding
On the Marakesh Express?
Would you know we’re riding
On the Marrakesh Express?
They’re taking me to Marrakesh
All on board the train
All on board the train
Crosby, Stills & Nash
Traveling…through clear Moroccan skies….
Sometimes a musical lyric worm sings within one’s head. Hard to imagine being on this road destined for Marrakech without hearing Crosby, Stills & Nash spinning in my ears.
We exit Essaouira driving west on N8 with a beautiful panorama of the city and ocean in our rearview mirrors. It is a gorgeous day. The sun shines and the road stretches straight and true. Adventure awaits.
Ducks and pigs and chickens call….
This morning we visit a local woman’s Argan oil cooperative. We saw these trees in the Souss Valley and throughout the Atlas Mountains. The gnarly Argan tree grows small, yellow fruits containing hard nuts; workers extract fragrant Argan Oil from them.
The Marjana Cooperative empowers local rural women by providing a safe work environment and a source of fair wages. The women live in the surrounding small villages and work here to help support their families. This particular cooperative extracts Argon oil for culinary and cosmetics uses.
The women demonstrated their technique in extracting the precious oil from the Argan nut. Manufacturers create several products, including cooking oil, edible oils for salads and dips, hair oils, lip balms, and facial and body moisturizers. Just about everything.
People value Argan Oil for its nourishing, hydrating, and antioxidant properties. It leaves a nutty fragrance that might be more apropos on a piece of bread than one’s face. However, small 50ml bottles are pricey at $17 yet may be fun adding to my facial cream at home.
Had to get away to see what we could find….
I cannot imagine many people who haven’t heard of Marrakech. For centuries, this name has captivated travelers of all ages with its vibrant souks, stunning palaces, and exotic energy.
The city seems a chaotic feast for the senses—fragrant spices waft through the air, maybe a bit of hashish, street musicians fill the squares with music (no Crosby, Stills & Nash), and colorful textiles drape bustling market stalls. Amidst all is the zooming motorbikes.
Though I caught an occasional whiff in the souks, purchasing and consuming hashish and kif remains prohibited in Morocco. Oddly, Morocco produces anywhere from one third to almost half of all hashish sold around the world. Good cash crop.
The Medina, with its labyrinth of alleyways, becomes a place both thrilling and mysterious, offering a glimpse into a world where tradition and modernity blend. This seems possibly the most authentic Medina I have visited.
Marrakech offers a city of contrasts, where lavish riads with tranquil courtyards sit just beyond the chaos of the streets. And the streets are, to me, chaos. Buses, cars, a plethora taxis, horse carts and endless motorbikes and bicycles. Reading your cell phone is a bikers art, or death, here.
A riad represents a traditional Moroccan house with an interior garden or courtyard. The word “riad” comes from the Arabic term for garden, reflecting the design’s focus on tranquility and privacy. Typically found in the old medinas, these homes feature high walls, often unassuming on the outside but richly decorated inside with intricate tilework, carved wood, and ornate plasterwork.
Today, many riads have been converted into boutique hotels, offering visitors an “authentic” and serene Moroccan experience amid the hustle and bustle of the Medina. Rooftop terraces provide stunning views of the city. Distant peaks of the High Atlas Mountains frame a landscape of palm groves and terracotta rooftops. Marrakech promises much to see and do, so we get right to it.
They’re taking me to Marrakesh….
One can walk or one can ride. After a hearty lunch, we choose to ride to our next destination. Not in a bus, nor taxi, but aboard a calèches.
In Marrakech, calèches are traditional horse-drawn carriages used for sightseeing and transportation. I think of poor Black Beauty pulling his cart in London. This horse appears much better fed and treated. In fact, the Society for the Protection of Animals Abroad oversees the welfare of these horses and manages the licensing system.
SPANA veterinarians conduct health assessments of the horses, issuing licenses based on their fitness. Supposedly, each horse undergoes evaluations three times annually. Horses that meet health standards receive a SPANA band on their fetlock, indicating their suitability for work. (I checked, it was there.)
These green carriages offer a leisurely way to explore a crazy, bustling city, gliding past busy souks, historical landmarks, and lush gardens. The horse must have nerves of steel by now. The surrounding traffic is awful.
Yves Saint Laurent slept here
The Majorelle Gardens were once owned by Yves Saint Laurent, the French fashion icon. YSL had a deep love for Marrakech, which became both a retreat and a source of inspiration for his fashion designs. He first visited the city in 1966 and became captivated by its bold colors, rich culture, and exotic atmosphere.
Soon after, he and his partner, Pierre Bergé, bought a home there, the Villa Oasis, next to this stunning garden. YSL and Bergé restored the garden and opened it to the public. After his death in 2008, YSL’s ashes were scattered here.
At right, YSL’s home amid his gardens.
The modern Musée Yves Saint Laurent, which celebrates his work and connection to Morocco, opened in 2017. The building itself is a masterpiece, featuring terracotta brickwork inspired by Moroccan textures and fabrics, and houses an exhibition of Saint Laurent’s designs.
Striking Majorelle Blue walls, exotic plants from around the world, and peaceful pathways shaded by towering palms and bamboo groves fill the gardens.
The gardens themselves offer a peaceful escape in the middle of Marrakech. One can roam an oasis of lush greenery, tranquil fountains, and vibrant colors. The bamboo grows abundant; several varieties of cactus are meticulously groomed. Following a short time for exploration, we visit the other museum housed within the gardens.
The Berber and Islamic Arts Museum showcases Morocco’s indigenous culture. The museum is found in the former painting studio of Jacques Majorelle who designed the gardens. Inaugurated in 2011 by the King of Morocco, the exhibition presents the history, arts and crafts of the Berbers and the indigenous peoples of North Africa.
Colored cottons hang in the air – Charming cobras in the square….
The maze of souks in the Medina number in the thousands. Everything can be found. Or, one can be totally lost, perhaps for days.
And then, we step into the huge, bustling Jemaa el-Fna in the heart of the Medina. I suspect if there is a place to be, day or night, it is this square.
Jemaa el-Fna
Day or night, Jemaa el-Fna presents a spectacle of storytellers, acrobats, musicians, and food stalls serving sizzling Moroccan delicacies. The air is thick with the scent of spices and grilled meats, the rhythm of drums echoes through the crowds, and the energy is electric. It’s a place where tradition and spectacle collide, offering an unforgettable immersion into the soul of Morocco.
The resident snake charmer will perform for a fee. The shrill, squeaky horn is just for show as snakes are deaf. But the cobras are testy and easily alerted.
They would love to be able to reach their tormentor with a strike and bite.
Jemaa el-Fna covers an area of over 100,000 square feet – about the size of two football fields! It sprawls around an open-air square crowded with souks, cafes, and historic landmarks. Its vast space is chock-a-block crammed with an ever-changing flow of performers, vendors, and visitors that make it one of the most vibrant public squares in the world.
Listen to the sounds of Marrakech….
We lodge at the barely-comfortable Hotel Dellarosa. I skip the free 10-minute message but check out the lounge. The white wine is chilled and the MTV is on loop. Nice escape from the din and tumult just outside the doors.
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