2 April 2025
We depart Casablanca for the 54-mile drive northeast to the city of Rabat. It is sunny and warm; the ocean is a brilliant blue and I relax. We are a group of 16 in a comfortable 32-person bus. Our Moroccan driver is Hassan. I go along for the ride.
The Imperial City of Rabat
Rabat, Morocco’s capital and seventh-largest city, has a metropolitan population of over 1.2 million. Strategically located on the Ocean at the Bou Regreg River, the Almohads founded the city in the 12th century. These people represented a Berber Muslim dynasty who ruled over North Africa and Al-Andalus (Andalusia) from the 12th to the 13th century. In 1170, the Almohads established a naval base in Rabat, meaning “stronghold of victory.”
The Almohads originated out of the Atlas Mountains of present-day Morocco and were recognized for their strict interpretation of Islam and military expansion. In addition, they built impressive architecture, including the Kutubiyya Mosque in Marrakech, the unfinished Hassan Tower in Rabat, and the Giralda (The ancient minaret of the Cathedral of Seville since converted into a bell tower.)
Rabat thrived, until it didn’t. The Almohads fell to Spain’s Christian forces by 1212 and, in Morocco, lost power to the Marinid dynasty. During the 17th century, Rabat became a Barbary pirate haven. Under French rule in 1912, it served as the administrative center before becoming Morocco’s capital upon independence in 1955.
Rabat became one of Morocco’s four Imperial cities (Fes, Marrakech, Meknes, and Rabat). All acted as former or current capitals of Morocco. Eventually, their maze-like medinas earned designations as UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Medina
Of course, Rabat features its own unique Medina. Walking it’s narrow alleyways provides a colorful experience offering endless photo opportunities. The old Medina was founded in the 12th century as a military town. Today, I’m not sure how much has changed. The architecture and atmosphere feel as if they’ve remained unchanged for 800 years.
It is still holiday and the Medina is quiet. Overall, the streets are neat, clean and colorful with ceramic post, flowers, tiles and bright blue windows and doors.
Mausoleum of Mohammed V
Probably the biggest draw for visitors to Rabat is the beautiful Mausoleum of Mohammed V. Reflecting Morocco’s spirit of religious tolerance, non-muslims and women are permitted to enter. Appropriate dress is expected.
Also as part of the complex, the Mausoleum contains the tombs of the Moroccan king Mohammed V and his two sons, King Hassan II and Prince Abdallah. Royal guards wear traditional garb and play a ceremonial role. They stand in silent, watchful attention near the tombs of the royal family.
Mohammed V passed away in 1961, and his son, Hassan II, commissioned his mausoleum, completing it in 1971. A Vietnamese architect designed the structure, blending traditional Moroccan architecture with modern materials. Workers constructed the mausoleum on the site of the Almohad-era Mosque near the Hassan Tower, incorporating white marble, Moorish arches, and a green pyramidal roof.
Inside, artisans crafted the mahogany dome with colored glass, while sculptors shaped Mohammed V’s cenotaph from white onyx. Craftsmen adorned the walls with intricate zellij tiling.
Mohammed VI Tower
Seen from the Mausoleum, this glass ballistic missile structure is the recently completed Mohammed VI Tower, a 55-story, 820-foot skyscraper. Supposedly, it represents the tallest building on the African continent. Initiated by billionaire Othman Benjelloun, CEO of Bank of Africa, the project aimed to create a rocket-shaped tower inspired by his visit to NASA. The concept was to symbolize innovation and ambition. Benjelloun envisioned building a rocket-shaped tower reflecting his fascination with space exploration.
Zellij Tiles
Artisans create zellij tiling by arranging colored ceramic pieces into intricate geometric patterns, a tradition rooted in the Islamic world. Known for its vibrant colors and precise shapes, zellij decorates walls, floors, fountains, and courtyards in Moroccan architecture. These patterns hold symbolic meaning, reflecting Islamic art’s emphasis on abstraction and geometry, as religious traditions forbid figurative imagery.
The process of making zellij involves cutting the tiles by hand into small, geometric shapes, then arranging them into complex, interlocking patterns. These designs often feature motifs such as stars, diamonds, and arabesques, which repeat to create a visually stunning effect.
Across the massive marble courtyard rests the Tombe du Soldat Inconnu (Tomb of the Unknown Soldier) dedicated to the soldiers who died in the fight for Morocco’s freedom and independence, particularly those who perished in the struggle against colonial rule.
Hassan Minaret
Towering 144-feet over the courtyard is the red sandstone Hassan Tower, a historic minaret meant to symbolize the power and influence of the Almohad dynasty. It is part of the unfinished Hassan Mosque complex, originally intended to be the largest mosque in the world. Construction began in the 12th century under the Almohad caliph Yacoub al-Mansour but left incomplete after his death.
Despite its unfinished status, the tower remains an impressive and honored symbol of Moroccan architectural ambition. The ruins of the Hassan Mosque, which were once meant to house over 20,000 worshippers, surround the tower. These remnants, including columns and arches, provide a glimpse into the scale and grandeur that the early builders envisioned.
Plains and Cork Trees, Barley and Grapes
Driving east toward the Imperial City of Fes, we pass green rolling fields ranging from fertile farmlands to vast orchards of oranges, peaches and olive trees. Major crops include cereals, a variety of vegetables, and grapes. Large flocks of sheep graze in the fields. This area represents a true “breadbasket of agricultural” for Morocco.
In fact, Morocco is the second-largest wine producer in the Arab world (after Algeria). Morocco produces red, white, and rosé wines, with Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Grenache being the most common grapes. Winemakers have cultivated their craft for centuries, with a history dating back to Phoenician and Roman times. French colonial rule later revived the industry, ensuring no respectable Frenchman went without his glass of wine.
The hills are a vibrant green with large splashes of yellow rapeseed, pinks from blooming peach trees, and orange wildflowers.
The roads are also dotted with ever present police, on foot, who control traffic. Cameras can be seen every few miles, another way of regulating traffic .
Also seen roadside are zoos, water parks, and amusement parks. Their Farris Wheel can be seen for miles.
Fès
We arrive into Fès and check into our hotel, The Royal Mirage. Sounds reminiscent of Las Vegas. Not even close. I hunt for a chilled glass of Chardonnay but am told wine and beer only served in the restaurant. Okay, we are led to the restaurant. A glass of wine takes time, nothing runs real fast in Morocco.
Dinner is a huge buffet. Food is varied but unremarkable. We are told that “When you see soup, don’t drink the tap water.” Well, tonight is a salad night. However, I still prefer the Chardonnay.
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