10 April 2025
The city of Taroudant looks large and enticing. As we enter the city, I see miles of adobe walls enclosing the old Medina. The entire area looks relatively untouched by modern man. This is a good thing.
People tell me that in these mountains, this city stands out as unique because the French usually built a newer city alongside the traditional one during their long colonial reign. In Taroudant, this was not the case. The city retains its traditional feel, the best of which is the historic, well-preserved red mud/straw walls surrounding the city.
Medina Walking
We enter one of the massive city gates to wander through the town’s extensive, and lively, Medina. Taroudant is a notable market town with a traditional souk near each of its two beautiful main squares, Assarag and Talmoklate. Here, one experiences the enjoyment of walking around without the overwhelming crowds.
This city offers a real glimpse into traditional Moroccan life with its working souks, shaded palm gardens, and bustling Berber markets. Without the hassle! Its maze-like streets, splendid views of the High Atlas and Anti-Atlas mountains, and relaxed atmosphere makes Taroudant feel like a hidden gem of Morocco.
Having a guide results in a much better experience. I never felt the pressure of the sale. It is like walking through the largest department store in the world with someone who knows the store map well enough to know what floor and which area has the women’s lingerie or the electronics department.
I always tell, myself I have enough photos of markets. Than never seems to stop me from snapping away. The colors, artful arrangements, and interesting crafts call out for another snapshot. Spices, dates, lamps, shoes, scarves, pumpkins, bags of lentils all say “look at me!”
Tiout Kasbah
For lunch, we travel the short distance to the small community of Tiout. Here, a family prepares an excellent lunch of goat tajine and couscous and chicken.
Supposedly, the goat is better in this region because they feed on argan leaves. There is little beyond rocks that sprouts from the earth here. As a result, those frisky feeders have learned to climb the twisted branches of the Argan trees to feed on their leaves. It gives the meat a special flavor. Certainly the tajine dish was delicious!
Goats in Trees
A highlight of the day turned out to be goats. Shepherds tend their flocks in the rocky fields among the Argan trees. There isn’t much feed unless a goat eats rocks. So, these industrious guys have figured out a solution. They take to the trees.
We spotted our prey: goats in trees! One tree can support lots of goats. The shepherd is quite proud of his flock and some change changes hands. We tourist snap away. The goats continue to munch among the branches. Evidently, the leaves will grow back, nuts remain unharmed, and the goat meat is more prized. Everyone wins!
Moments of Peace
We return to our lodging Dar al Hossoun in Taroudant. It offers comfortable amenities, an invigorating hammam, and a fantastic garden of supposedly over 900 varieties of plants in which to relax. I enjoy my afternoon in the garden with little more than the sound of the wind among the palm fronds. Oh, and the screams of the resident peacock trying to attract his pea hen. She seems uninterested at the moment.
Like most males, he keeps trying.
Like any of today’s females, she prefers substance and character over flash.
I am told the owners, a French family, originally started with 10 peacocks to roam his extensive gardens. I guess the screams were too much for the guests. I hope they didn’t eat the other eight.
Gardens of Dar al Hossoun
