21 May 2025
Regensburg proves to be a wonderful old city filled with beautiful architecture, a grand cathedral, historic plazas and cafes. The Danube weaves through the city as church bells toll from soaring towers. Boats cruise the waters passing under historic bridges. We spend our day casually cruising pedestrian streets and along the river.
Regensburg is home to 1,500 listed historic buildings, 984 of which are part of the UNESCO World Heritage site known as the “Old Town with Stadtamhof.” (Stadtamhof was an independent settlement, incorporated into Regensburg in 1924, located just across the Stone Bridge and extending to the northern channel of the Danube.)
Notable UNESCO architectural landmarks include the Stone Bridge, the Dom St. Peter, and Krauterermarkt square containing the Collegiate Church of St. John, the Cathedral Treasury Museum, and the historic Adler Pharmacy. But there exist scores of other architectural gems along Regensburg’s charming cobbled streets.
St. Peter Regensburg Cathedral
The charm of Regensburg lies in its well-preserved medieval architecture, narrow winding alleys, and a charming old town. Towering stone buildings, Gothic spires, and colorful townhouses line the cobblestone streets, giving the city a timeless quality.
At the heart of it all is Krauterermarkt square dominated by Regensburg Cathedral (Dom St. Peter), a masterpiece of Gothic architecture that dominates the skyline.
Its twin spires rise above the city, visible from nearly every angle, and its intricate stone carvings and stained-glass windows reflect centuries of craftsmanship. Construction began in the 13th century and took several hundred years to complete, resulting in a richly detailed and imposing structure.
Its dramatic façade and peaceful interior make it a must-see. It’s dark inside but the stained glass glows.
The Cathedral is also home to the famous Regensburger Domspatzen boys’ choir, one of the oldest and most renowned boys’ choirs in the world. Choir roots trace back over 1,000 years to the year 975. The name means “Cathedral Sparrows of Regensburg,” a nod to both their home (Dom St. Peter)—and their angelic, soaring voices, most often heard during Sunday high mass.
Also situated around historic Krauterermarkt platz are the Collegiate Church of St. John, the Cathedral Treasury Museum, a patrician townhouse, and the historic Adler Pharmacy.
Basilica of the Nativity of Our Lady Regensburg
Just around the corner from the Dom situated on the Alter Kornmarkt sits the spectacular church commonly called “Alte Kapelle.” In 1964, Pope Paul VI elevated it to the rank of a (minor) basilica. As the oldest Catholic church in Bavaria, the Alte Kapelle may be unremarkable from the outside, the Rococo interior is stunning.
The Basilica is believed to have been founded by Charlemagne on the site of a former Roman temple to Juno, giving it the name “Old Chapel.” In 1002, Emperor Henry II and Empress Kunigunde established a collegiate abbey around the chapel, marking it as the oldest Catholic foundation in Bavaria.
Over the centuries, the church evolved architecturally, with its core walls dating to the early medieval Romanesque period, a Late Gothic choir added in the 15th century, and a richly decorated Baroque and Rococo interior completed in the 18th century.
The interior of the basilica is stunning for its elaborate Bavarian Rococo style, featuring intricate stucco work, vivid ceiling frescoes, and a splendid high altar. Multiple side chapels also showcase ornate gilding and sculptural detail.
Platz Worthy of a Pause
In any medieval city in Germany, get thee to a platz. There will almost always be great cafes, restaurants, and wonderful views for people watching.
Altes Rathaus and Rathausplatz
The Altes Rathaus, or Old Town Hall, represents a historic complex of buildings that once housed the seat of the Holy Roman Imperial Diet from the 17th to the early 19th century.
Located in the heart of the Old Town, its Gothic-style tower and richly decorated Baroque rooms reflect the city’s political importance in medieval and early modern Europe. Surrounding the historic platz lie restaurants and cafes.
Haidplatz
Nearby is the traditional city platz of Haidplatz. Originally an open meadow outside a Roman fort, it evolved into a gathering place hosting knightly tournaments and public events. The square is surrouonded by notable buildings like the Goldenes Kreuz (Golden Cross) and the Thon-Dittmer-Palais.
In the center sits the fountain Justitiabrunnen, or Justice Fountain, a Baroque monument created in 1656. It features a statue of Lady Justice, who holds a sword and scales. Once part of the city’s improved water supply system, the fountain now serves as a prominent historical and artistic landmark.
Like most of the historic platz of Regensburg, Haidplatz is a lively area lined with cafés and dining.
Bismarckplatz
However, the pièce de resistance of platzs for a pause is Bismarckplatz, a vibrant and architecturally rich square located at the western edge of Regensburg’s Old Town. Established in 1803 and named after Chancellor Otto von Bismarck in 1885, the square is characterized by its neoclassical design and historical significance.
The square is home to the Theater am Bismarckplatz, a 200-year-old venue hosting a variety of performances, including opera, musicals, and ballet.
In addition to its cultural offerings, Bismarckplatz features two large fountains and tree-lined areas, providing a pleasant environment.
Neupfarrplatz
Neupfarrplatz is steeped in over 2,000 years of history. Originally the site of Roman officer residences, it later became home to one of Germany’s oldest Jewish communities, documented since 981. The Jewish quarter thrived for centuries until their expulsion in 1519, and the synagogue and surrounding buildings were demolished.
In their place, the Neupfarrkirche was constructed, initially intended as a Catholic pilgrimage church but later becoming Regensburg’s first Protestant parish church in 1542.
Beneath the square lies archaeological remnants of the Roman legionary camp Castra Regina, medieval Jewish cellars, and a World War II-era bunker. Excavations in the 1990s uncovered a 14th-century treasure of 624 gold coins and a ring bearing the Jewish community’s seal.
The square also features a floor relief by artist Dani Karavan, marking the footprint of the destroyed synagogue, serving as a memorial to the Jewish heritage of Regensburg.
Today, visitors can explore these layers of history at the document Neupfarrplatz information center.
Sailing to Walhalla
We board one of the boats found at the foot of Stone Bridge for the 30-minute cruise to Walhalla. Visiting the museums in town, we learned much about this memorial. This afternoon we will travel on the Danube to visit it.
The Walhalla memorial overlooks the Danube about 10 miles west of Regensburg. It represents a symbol of German national pride and heritage. Commissioned by King Ludwig I of Bavaria and completed in 1842, the memorial sits 358 stone steps above the Danube River.
Architecturally, Walhalla is modeled after a classical Greek Doric temple and is characterized by a single row of columns surrounding the structure. Walhalla gets its name from Valhalla, the hall of slain warriors in Norse mythology. King Ludwig I chose the name to symbolize a place of honor.
Modeled after a Greek temple, the structure contains symbolic busts and inscriptions of over 190 notable figures in German history, culture, and science. Among them are Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Ludwig van Beethoven, and Immanuel Kant. Also recognized are Renaissance artist and mathematician Albrecht Dürer, statesman Otto von Bismarck, Albert Einstein, Johannes Gutenberg, and Protestant Reformer Martin Luther.
Marvelous Stops on the Medieval Town Trail
Regensburg proved to be a wonderful Green Banner stop. The city charms with its medieval architecture, lively squares, riverside views, and rich history. From cathedrals to quiet alleys and local beer gardens, it offers culture, beauty, and an authentic Bavarian spirit.
Even better, except for several student class trips, Regensburg lacked big crowds. We never had to wait long for our beer.
