16-17 May 2025
Using the DB Navigator App, we purchase tickets and board an EuroCity train to travel south to the lakeside resort of Prien am Chiemsee. Prien seems like stepping into a picturesque postcard with beautiful lakeside views with a backdrop of the Bavarian Alps. It’s not just about the scenery, though. Prien offers a perfect blend of nature and history in a relatively peaceful setting.
Within less than an hour, we arrive at the Prien train station. From the station, it seems the narrow-gauge, steam-powered train isn’t chugging today, so we board Bus 481 for the mile ride to the Prien/Stock Harbor. From its stop, we walk the short distance to our lodgings at the Garden-Hotel Reinhart.
Why Prien?
We visit Prien because Prien is am Chiemsee (on Chiemsee). Lake Chiemsee, referred to as the “Bavarian Sea,” is special for its beauty, historical significance, and the islands scattered across its vast waters.
Meanwhile, Prien itself is a charming old town with cozy cafes, local shops, and traditional Bavarian architecture. It’s a place where you can unwind, enjoy regional cuisine, and immerse yourself in a slower pace of life.
The lake, the largest in Bavaria, offers stunning views of the Alps. The area around the lake is perfect for boating, swimming, cycling, and hiking, all while surrounded by the serene landscape.
The two most famous islands on Chiemsee are Fraueninsel and Herreninsel. From Prien’s docks there are regular boats to both islands.
Fraueninsel
The ferry takes us across the lake to the island’s dock. Known for its Benedictine convent, Fraueninsel, the smaller and more idyllic of the two islands, offers a glimpse into the island’s long history. With its many artists shops, cafes and beer gardens, this became a perfect, quiet stop am Chiemsee.
The Benedictine abbey Frauenwörth was founded by King Ludwig the German in 860 and its first abbess was his daughter Irmingard, who was beatified in 1929. It is one of the oldest monastic communities in Bavaria. Originally, a place of prayer and study, over the centuries it played a significant role in the region’s Christianization.
The convent dedicates itself to St. Mary and has maintained its Benedictine monastic tradition for more than a thousand years. It was an important center of religious life in medieval Bavaria and became known for its contributions to education and the preservation of religious texts. The monks and nuns of the convent also played a role in the development of local agriculture, particularly during the Middle Ages.
Over time, the convent underwent numerous renovations and expansions, particularly in the Baroque period, with a beautiful church and well-preserved cloisters. The 10th-century Church of St. Mary, which stands within the convent, has a stunning Baroque altar.
The convent is still an active religious community with Benedictine sisters living and working here. They also run a small shop that sells locally made goods, including jams and handmade products. The historical significance and the quiet beauty of the island make it a serene place for a visit.
Topping its free-standing bell tower is a distinctive 11th-century onion-dome.
Controversial Grave
There rests a small, quiet cemetery beside the Church of St. Mary. Well maintained and resting place for island residents, it is not without controversy.
The Jodl family grave, which honors Alfred Jodl and his brother Ferdinand, sits near its entrance. It included a cenotaph for General Alfred Jodl who was hanged as a war criminal in Nuremberg in 1946. (His ashes were scattered in the Isar River.) Buried here in the family tomb are his first wife Irma (1885-1944), his second wife Luise (1905-1998), and his younger brother Ferdinand (1896-1956) and his wife Maria. Ferdinand Jodl was a general of mountain troops during the war.
This symbolic tombstone for Alfred Jodl remained controversial with locals. In 2015, islanders demanded that be a sign explaining the crimes and condemnation of Hitler’s general. Finally, the cenotaph for Alfred Jodl was removed in 2018.
Herreninsel
Herreninsel is home to the Herrenchiemsee Palace, built by Bavarian King Ludwig II, also known as the “Fairy Tale King” or “Mad King Ludwig.” His reign and the projects he embarked on remain surrounded by mystery and grandeur. Herrenchiemsee represents one of his most ambitious creations.
Originally, Ludwig intended to build a ‘Temple of Fame‘ to honor the Sun King, Louie XIV of France. His copy Versailles acted “as a monument to absolute monarchy and had no practical purpose.” Therein appeared the problems.
Ludwig II, who was deeply influenced by French culture and especially admired the Palace of Versailles near Paris, decided to create his own version in Bavaria.
He envisioned a grand palace that would rival Versailles (which many have tried and never achieved). Ludwig planned it as a tribute to the French monarchy and the grandeur of Louis XIV. He even referred to it as “the palace of the future” aiming to combine his admiration for French art with Bavarian royal history.
Construction of Herrenchiemsee Palace began in 1878. Ludwig envisioned lavish interiors, sprawling gardens, and meticulously designed rooms, all inspired by Versailles.
Ludwig had a thing for the Sun King.
The palace is not only a copy of Versailles, its finished rooms, just 20 of 70, replicate its rooms as if the Sun King himself directed their design. Louie’s portrait prominently hangs in the Sun King’s bedroom, only French paintings hang in the other palace rooms. The Hall of Mirrors admirably copies its predecessor. Priceless porcelain, glass and textiles complement each room.
The overall effect is one of lush, golden, some may say gaudy, extravagance. Ludwig II never slept here. And the Sun King had been dead for almost 200 years. Up until Ludwig’s mysterious death in 1886, he spent millions of dollars and pounds of gold leaf in his passion to recreate the artistic ideals of the nineteenth century. All highlighting and honoring his idol, the Sun King.
However, Ludwig’s vision was never fully realized. The palace, while beautiful and grand in its design, was not completed due to a lack of resources and Ludwig’s untimely death in 1886. Ludwig died mysteriously, leaving 50 rooms and an unfinished wing of the palace under construction.
Also part of the palace is the King Ludwig II Museum.
Beautifully manicured gardens and active fountains surround the palace. The forests provide quiet walking paths.
And near the docks lies the Augustinian Monastery and Chorherrenstift/Convention Hall where in1948 leaders met to form Germany’s democratic constitution. A large beer garden becomes the pause that refreshes while overlooking the lake and it sister convent on Fraueninsel.
Busy But Not a Problem
Chiemsee, with its islands, historical sites, and natural beauty, provides a quiet blend of relaxation and culture. It is a favorite destination for Germans, Austrians and tourists from around the world. And yes, it can be busy.
However, the area is also perfect for appreciating Mother Nature. If you’re into water activities, the lake offers sailing, swimming, and paddleboarding. One can hike, cycle around the lake, explore nature reserves, or simply relax on the shores with the magnificent mountains rising in the background.
We had a quiet 2 days in Prien and on its waters and islands. The Garden-Hotel Reinhart proved to be luxurious with a two-bath suite with balcony, wine bar and views of the meadows. Prien am Chiemsee proved to be a great escape from Munich’s hustle and bustle.
We board the Chiemsee-Bahn for the short trip to the main station for our return to Munich.
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