19-20 May 2025
Departing Munich’s Hbf, with a train leaving about every hour, we travel about an hour and a half to the city of Regensburg. We settle into a 6-person compartment to zip through green countryside intermittently broken by large solar farms.
Why Regensburg? First, it was a convenient stopping point while traveling north. My goal? To see a couple of my “Green Banner” cities. My extensively starred and “Want to Go” Google Map indicates additional places (Green Banners) I want to visit in Nuremberg and a desire to explore Rothenburg for the first time. When looking for a city of interest in their northerly direction, Regensburg caught my attention.
Why Explore Regensburg?
Regensburg is a vibrant and beautifully preserved medieval town in southeastern Germany. It lies at the confluence of the Danube, Naab, and Regen rivers.
One of the oldest towns in Germany, its roots go back to Roman times. Its historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This is exactly the kind of city I love to explore.
I’m like Stanley Tucci in Devil Wears Prada, “Give me a full ballerina skirt and a hint of saloon and I’m on board.” But for me, give me a medieval walled city and opportunity for Weiss bier and I’m ready for a visit.
Arriving into the main hofbahnhof, Martha and I walk the short distance to Hotel Weidenhof on the main pedestrian street of Maximillianstrasse. Surrounding us lies the old city, scores of cafes and restaurants, and a variety of historic buildings, sculptures and squares. Lots to see and do in Regensburg.
Why Regensburg is a “Burg”
First, a question I need to settle: In Germany, what is the difference between a city that is a “-berg” and one that calls itself “-burg”? It appears the key difference lies in their origin.
“Burg” often signifies a fortress or defensive medieval castle. Meanwhile, “berg” typically indicates a mountain. Of course, that mountain or hill can, and usually does, have a fortress atop it. Either way, I love these towns.
Close by there remains a few surrounding castle ruins overlooking strategic placements above the Danube. However, the main castle in Regensburg is Schloss St. Emmeram, Thurn und Taxis.
Schloss St. Emmeram, Thurn und Taxis
Schloss Thurn und Taxis (tower and badger), also known as Schloss St. Emmeram, offers a blend of historical grandeur and Bavarian opulence. Originally a Benedictine monastery founded in the 8th century, it was transformed into a princely residence in the early 19th century and remains one of the largest private residences in Europe.
Princess Gloria of Thurn und Taxis opens large areas of her “home” to visitors. Her family history appears to be traced back to the early 12th century.
The noble family also created the Thurn and Taxis private postal service, much like the American Pony Express, that took over from the Imperial Reichspost of the Holy Roman Empire. It was run by the family from 1806 to 1867.
We explore lavish state rooms adorned with Rococo and neo-Renaissance designs. These include the Yellow Salon, Silver Salon, and the Throne Room. The palace also houses the Fürstliche Schatzkammer, a treasury showcasing exquisite artifacts such as goldsmith works, porcelain, and a notable collection of hunting weapons. Adjacent to this is the Marstallmuseum, featuring an impressive array of historical carriages and sleighs used by the princely family.
The medieval cloister of the former monastery offers a glimpse into the site’s monastic past. Meanwhile, the palace’s Baroque library, established in 1778, stands as testament to the family’s patronage of the arts and literature.
Museums Worth a Visit
There are two interesting museums in Regensburg. As the name states, the Haus der Bayerischen Geschichte (House of Bavarian History) explores Bavarian history. The Historisches Museum Regensburg explores the history of the city of Regensburg. Both are worth a visit.
Bavarian History Museum
The Bavarian History Museum includes a permanent exhibition featuring around 1,000 artifacts. Each chronicles the state’s transformation from a kingdom in 1806 to the modern Free State of Bavaria.
A notable stop in the foyer is the multivisual panorama show which provides an immersive introduction to the city’s Bavarian history. Unfortunately, it is only in German. However, the presentation is excellent and highly entertaining. Keep an eye out for the yellow rubber duckie floating down the Danube.
Elsewhere, a special exhibit on the life of Ludwig I chronicles his industrious life. He was not an absolute monarch as his father, Maximilian I Joseph, endorsed the Constitution of the Kingdom of Bavaria in 1818. However, Ludwig I seemed to dedicate his life to the advancement of Bavaria, feeling he deserved more credit than perhaps he received.
His subjects seemed to appreciate the democratic Parliament and their generous king. Ludwig abdicated in 1848, passing the throne to his son Maximilian II (father of Ludwig II, the Fairy Tale King).
The permanent exhibitions of the museum contains many interactive displays, including opportunities to try on replica crowns and experience the weight of Napoleonic-era military gear. One is guided through several rooms, each based upon a generation of time.
One of the more interesting sections was the “Degenerate Art” exhibition featuring the confiscated paintings, drawings, and sculptures displayed in the Reich’s notorious art exhibition. It opened in Munich in 1937 and later traveled throughout the Reich. So Hitler hated the art of the likes of Kandinsky, Klee, Picasso and Chagall, but held an exhibition of their works.
Historisches Museum Regensburg
The Regensburg museum, housed in a former Minorite monastery, offers a comprehensive look at the history of Regensburg and Eastern Bavaria, spanning from the Stone Age to the 19th century. Unfortunately, everything is in German. Here, the phone’s translator apps come in very handy.
The museum’s archaeological collection showcases artifacts from the Paleolithic period through the end of Celtic civilization, including tools, pottery, and reconstructions of Roman domestic spaces.
An equally interesting section explores the Middle Ages highlighting Regensburg’s role as a Free Imperial City. Exhibits feature stone sculptures, sacred art from the 15th and 16th centuries, and insights into medieval urban life and trade.
Even better, we explored the museum’s cloister with its late Gothic monastery fountain and two Gothic rooms housing significant medieval sculptures.
Additionally, the museum presents collections of furniture, arts and crafts, and everyday objects from the 16th to 19th centuries. These reflect the cultural and social developments of the region during this period.
Walk Along the Danube
Regensburg enjoys an idyllic location along the Danube River. Where there is a river, an old city, warm weather and cafes, there presents the opportunity to enjoy a walk and libation.
Actually, Regensburg embraces a lively student population thanks to its university, a buzzing café life, and a busy beer garden scene. I find Roman ruins tucked behind boutiques, cozy taverns serving Bavarian food and beer, and riverside promenades perfect for relaxed strolls or boat tours.
The iconic Steinerne Brücke spans the Danube River. It was completed around 1146. With 16 graceful arches, it was an engineering marvel of its time. The bridge played a crucial role in connecting major trade routes between Northern Europe and the Balkans and helped make Regensburg a wealthy medieval trading center.
For over 800 years, it served as the only Regensburg bridge across the Danube and remains a symbol of the city’s medieval wealth and influence. Today, it’s a pedestrian bridge offering scenic views of the river and the historic Old Town.
UNESCO Old Town
Because of the city´s unique status as “the only authentically preserved large medieval city in Germany” Old Town Regensburg with its Old Stone Bridge was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2006.
Below the bridge’s north tower sits a small UNESCO Museum which recognizes the historic heritage and importance of Old Town Regensburg.
Along this section of the Danube are numerous cafes in which to eat with a view. A great stop was the Historische Wurstkuchi at the foot of the Stone Bridge. Their Bavarian menu offers wonderful grilled sausages and sauerkraut, food I do like. Of course, all was washed down with a chilled Hefeweizen.
Drinking and Dining
While Martha and I ate sausages and sauerkraut for lunch, dinner was a different continent. The street outside our door, Maximilianstrasse, is lined with Asian restaurants. We chose the Koi1984, a wonderful Japanese sushi restaurant.
We dined on a delicious Donald Duck – grilled duck in orange sauce enjoyed with a crisp white wine from Portugal. The restaurant’s menu is extensive, service good and all enjoyed in a street side atmosphere.
Perhaps Bavarians have many reasons to be proud of their cities.
Seems they have quite an enjoyable lifestyle here in Regensburg.
Prost!
0 Comments