25-27 May 2025
Rothenburg is a Bavarian village often included on river cruises. It’s located on the Tauber River, which flows into the Main River, and the Main River connects to the Danube through the Main-Danube Canal. Cruise the Main-Danube Canal and you will reach one of the finest cities in Franconia Bavaria.
Rothenburg also represents one of traveler-guru Rick Steves’ favorite places to visit. “…Germany’s best-preserved walled town…the king of medieval German cuteness. Even with crowds, overpriced souvenirs, and a nearly inedible pastry specialty… (a fried ball of pie crust called a Schneeball – “snowball”), Rothenburg is still the best.”
Good enough recommendation for me. Rothenburg attracted me with “best-preserved walled town.” So, making sure I traveled to the correct Rothenburg, the one on the Tauber, I happily added this city to my itinerary.
Germany’s Rothenburgs
Going to the wrong Rothenburg is like showing up at Comic-Con dressed as Gandalf only to find it’s a plumbing convention. Traveling to Rothenburg ob der Tauber – not Rothenburg bei who-knows-where or Rothenburg an der industrial park – is a very good thing, especially if you love walled cities.
And I do.
Rothenburg is like stepping into a medieval storybook that someone forgot to update for 500 years. Cobbled streets, medieval timber-framed houses, and yes, a glorious, walkable wall lets you patrol the perimeter like the town’s very own time-traveling guard. It’s a place where I can climb towers and sample a Schneeballen pastry. While other cities tore down their walls to make room for traffic, Rothenburg kept theirs and said: “No thanks, we like it medieval.”
And so do I.
Arrival – Alas Right Train Station
Whenever there exists more than one city of a similar name, I worry: “What if I end up in the wrong city?” Thankfully, this did not happen. Our trains have been operating to the minute. We accomplished our 4 and 5-minute transfers in spite of stairs and bag.
Martha and I arrived into the Rothenburg ob der Tauber HBF right on time. From there, a short walk took us to our lodging at the Bayerischer Hof on the edge of the walled city.
We deposit our bags and head out to the nearby Röderturm Gate to enter this remarkable medieval city.
Marktplatz
First stop: Marktplatz – a lively square surrounded by stunning historic architecture that begs to be photographed. On one side stands the Town Hall (Rathaus), with its Gothic rear and Renaissance front, complete with a tower I can climb for sweeping views. Not that I plan to do so.
Nearby, the ornate Councillors’ Tavern (Ratstrinkstube) features a charming clock with a mechanical show reenacting the legendary “Master Draught.” Top windows very briefly open to show the two key protagonists with the wine-swilling mayor on the right.
The “Master Draught” (Meistertrunk) represents a legendary tale tied to a moment of high drama during the Thirty Years’ War. In 1631, Catholic forces under General Tilly captured the Protestant town. According to the story, Tilly threatened to destroy Rothenburg unless the town’s council could impress him.
Enter the former mayor, Georg Nusch, who boldly accepted the challenge. If he could drink over three liters of wine in one go, the town would be spared. In an act of heroic liver strength and civic duty, Nusch succeeded—and the town saved. Today, the mechanical clock reenacts the celebratory moment with little wooden figures every hour.
Outdoor cafés line the edges of Marktplatz. We choose the Ratsstube Restaurant, kick back, watch the action, and enjoy a cool Hefeweizen. It’s where history, atmosphere, and a strong temptation to eat one of those Schneeballen all meet in one postcard-perfect plaza.
Best Sites
I am surrounded by a walkable, photogenic stone wall complete with towers, gates, and views straight out of a Brothers Grimm tale. In fact, the area around Plönlein Gate has been used for movies as varied as Pinocchio and Harry Potter (though scenes here didn’t make the final cut). It makes me feel like I should’ve packed chainmail and a lute.
Rothenburg represents a city for strolling. Forests, gardens, flowers and parks lie in all directions. Façade’s display dates and stores proudly say “Seit 1631.” Read the numbers and see buildings which have stood here since 1774, 1567, 1596.
Rothenburg Museum
Perhaps it is best I start at the Rothenburg Museum. Housed in a former Dominican convent dating back to the 13th century, the museum lets one dive deep into Rothenburg’s medieval past beyond the pretty facades. It’s the perfect place to learn how Rothenburg became the fairy-tale town it is today—with a healthy dose of swordplay, stained glass, and stories of stubborn medieval survival.
On display is everything from weaponry, sacred art, and medieval everyday objects to a chilling exhibit on the Thirty Years’ War and the “Master Draught” legend. One entire room is dedicated to beer steins. The preserved convent kitchen, one of the oldest in Germany, shows what cooking dinner must have been like in 1260.
Check the Churches
Rothenburg’s churches invite exploration. They include Franziskanerkirche (Franciscan) and St. Jakobs Church (Protestant). Both represent architectural and spiritual landmarks, each offering a unique window into the town’s rich religious and artistic heritage.
The Franziskanerkirche, dating back to the 13th century, is one of the oldest Gothic churches in Rothenburg. Its interior is relatively simple in line with Franciscan ideals. However, it houses some impressive treasures, including a beautiful high altar with intricate wood carvings. The stained-glass window dates around 1400.
St. Jakobs Church is the town’s main Lutheran church and a masterpiece of Gothic architecture. Completion occurred in stages between 1311 and 1471.
Dedicated to apostle St. James, his bronze stature with pilgrim hat, staff and clam shell stands at the main entrance pointing the way along the pilgrimage route to his grave in Santiago de Compostela. Many pilgrims passed through Rothenburg ob der Tauber walking the Way of St. James on their long journey to Spain.
Most references to the Way of St. James refer to the “Camino Frances,” which leads from the French Pyrenees to Santiago de Compostela. In Europe, however, there is a network of St. James paths. Thirty of them are in Germany, one of which, the Franconian-Swabian Way of St. James leads north to south thru Würzburg and Rothenburg.
The High Altar or Twelve Apostles Altar, represents the work of master Swabian wood carvers. Completed in 1466, the scenes include the six saints and four angels. The painted altar panels in back depict Christ with the Twelve Apostles along with other scenes from the life of Mary. The altar is considered one of the finest in all Germany.
However, St. Jakobs is best known for the Heiligblutaltar (Altar of the Holy Blood), one of the most celebrated woodcarvings of the late Gothic era. In 1499, an honored Würzburg sculpture was asked to create a worthy setting to hold the Reliquary of the Holy Blood. The altar holds the relic of the Holy Blood in a rock-crystal capsule set in the cross (about 1270) in the center of the shrine. The scene beneath is a master carving of the Last Supper.
The church’s lofty nave, colorful stained glass, and relatively new 5000-pipe organ also make St. Jakobs a key stop.
Two Special Museums
The Medieval Crime and Punishment Museum and the German Christmas Museum are as different as a dungeon and a gingerbread house. Visiting both gives one the full spectrum of humanity, from grim justice to jolly festivity.
The Medieval Crime and Punishment Museum dives into the darker side of history. It presents a fascinating (and sometimes wince-inducing) look at law, order, and how people were kept in line over the centuries. It appeared a vast number of those people were women.
I found instruments of torture, shame masks, executioner tools, and lots of detailed exhibits on medieval legal practices. It’s educational, intense, and occasionally horrifying—but in a way that makes me grateful for modern court systems (so far) and the general decline of public flogging (as yet to be used by my government).
On the other hand, the German Christmas Museum is a warm, twinkly embrace of nostalgia and holiday cheer. Located above Käthe Wohlfahrt’s famous Christmas store, it showcases the history of German Christmas traditions, ornaments, nutcrackers, and Advent calendars.
Her store is a maze of rooms selling every imaginable Christmas ornament possible. The atmosphere smells like cinnamon, and it’s all about the joy of the season and commercialism.
If you start with the crime museum, you’ll be glad to cheer yourself up afterward with sparkling trees and glass-blown angels. But, if you start with the Christmas Museum, be prepared for a sharp emotional pivot when you go from tinsel to thumbscrews.
The Pause to Refresh
After valiantly marching through cobbled streets and storming towers, I’ve nobly worked up a thirst of epic proportions. I paused to ponder the dark genius of medieval torture devices. Now, it’s time to drop the imaginary sword. Off come the tourist sandals. My new sacred quest? Find a local bar wench and a frothy tankard of beer.
She arrives with a knowing smile and a sudsy glass of Hefeweizen as I receive that brew like a knightess returning from battle. Let the ale flow, the legs rest, and the day’s adventures soak in like pretzels in mustard. Because even the most seasoned medieval history buff and wall-walker needs to hydrate—with hops.
Thanks again to Saint Hildegard of Bingen.
0 Comments