Then There are the Walls! 

Rothenberg, Germany – 25-27 May 2025

The walls of Rothenburg ob der Tauber are a dream come true for lovers of medieval architecture—and for anyone who ever wanted to pretend they were on castle patrol. Stretching nearly 2.5 miles, these 14th- and 15th-century fortifications wrap around the old town like a stone embrace. Over 40 towers, gates, and bastions complete the fortifications.

Walking the walls is like stepping into a time machine. The narrow walkway, sheltered by a wooden roof, winds from tower to tower, offering sweeping views of red-tiled rooftops, cobblestone streets, half-timbered houses, church spires, and the Franconian countryside. Ivy climbs old stone walls, and church spires pierce the sky.

I pass through arched gates, duck under beams, and stop at lookout points—perfect for photos. Also perfect for contemplating my BFF Jim who would have loved walking these fortifications. Next best thing is the spreading of a few of his ashes along the way.

Stone plaques naming donors from around the world adorn the stone walls. The walk remains relatively peaceful except for footsteps and city church bells.

I walk counterclockwise from the southern gate of Spital Bastion and Plönlein all the way to the northern tower of Klingentor. The wall to the west is lower as it overlooks the valley, river and cliffs leading up to Rothenburg. At Castle Gate there is a quiet park and marvelous views over the valley and toward to oldest part of the city dominated by Spital Tower, a wooden bridge, and its bastion fortifications.

Each tower exudes its own character: some squat and square, others tall and dramatic, all with names that sound like they could moonlight in a fantasy novel. There remain 40 towers along the circuit of the walls. It’s like a Who’s Who of retribution: Blade Gate, Penalties Tower, Bailiff Tower, Womens Gate, and Gallows Gate. 

Each gate offers its history and legend

Röderturm sits close to our lodging and provides both entry to the city but a place to climb the steps onto the walls. Beneath is a green space for biking, strolling and dog walking.

Markusturm (Markus Tower) – Near the town center, is one of the oldest surviving parts of the city’s original defenses and often photographed with the adjacent Röder Arch.

Galgentor (Gallows Gate) is as ominous as it sounds as this gate was once near the town’s execution grounds.

Weißer Turm (White Tower) – A striking, pale tower that once served as an inner-city gate during Rothenburg’s expansion. Weiberturm or Womens Gate, likely served as a “Frauengefängnis,” or women’s prison, used to detain women accused of various offenses.

Burgtor acts as an entry to the castle gardens and panoramic views.

Best of all, the wall walking remains free. It is like a hop on/hop off wall.  

By the time you’ve looped the wall, you’ll not only have stretched your legs but also felt like a sentinel of centuries past—minus the chainmail, thankfully.

And, Because I Really Like Medieval Cities….

The night watchman slung a horn on a chain around his neck. It served as an early warning system against fire. Fire represented the most feared danger before a time of hydrants and fire brigades existed. His duties included keeping vigil over the streets of the inner city. He lit lanterns and called out the hours during the quiet night. As he walked the city, he sang his “Hour Song.” It told the sleeping people of Rothenburg that all was well.

Prost!