Washington State Relatives

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3 Sept – Beautiful, sunny morning with temps in the 50s and a hot air balloon rising into the blue sky. I head south toward Missoula along the west side of blue, blue Flathead Lake with countless sailboats on its surface. I think at least every 10th car is towing a boat. Pretty scenery and easy roads, 70 mph speed limits. I angle west and meet up with I 90 which will take me through the panhandle of Idaho and straight to Bellevue WA. I think the GPS mentioned 350+ miles but I blanked that part out. Once in WA, the interstate quickly became desert and dull. Most interesting part of this highway are the “cell phone pullouts.” (more…)

Top of the World – Glacier National Park

Once site of Glacial Lake Missoula

30th Aug – Not only did I loose an hour for Mountain Time, I lost a day. Then I discovered I rushed the month, too. I know precisely where I am, just not what day it is. To be on a road trip and unaware of the day is ideal.

I drove north to Glacier National Park. Drove a different route to visit the Bison National Refuge. It is a 19-mile gravel road out of MoIese on the northwestern side of the refuge. Twisting, climbing to over 4700′ with awesome vistas of what used to be the huge Glacial Lake Missoula and what is now a vast valley basin, I find driving around the park peaceful and solitary. Wildlife consists of bison, elk, deer, pronghorn antelope, bighorn sheep, and black bear. (more…)

On the Path of Lewis & Clark

Lewis and Clark along Clearwater River

Pulley system over the Lochsa River

28th Aug – Lewiston to Missoula, I am following Lewis and Clark as they emerged from the Bitterroot Mountains and, with the help of the Nez Perce, built canoes and followed Clearwater River to the Columbia and the Pacific. Today, I steer my Honda down the winding 2000′ Lewiston Grade to meet the Clearwater River and drive north into the Nez Perce Reservation. The Clearwater is indeed clear, sometimes calm and deep, other times rippling rapids among rocks and shallows. Its expanse ranges from 30 to more than 100 feet; numerous small bridges and even the occasional pulley system spans its waters. (more…)

Exploring Highway 395 North

Emigrant Trail Monument - Truckee CA

24 Aug – I drove to Truckee via Sacramento, a drive of lies and bad memory: lies that “it’s a dry heat” and forgetting how unpleasant 101 degrees can be. I was thrilled to see $3.51 a gallon gas, which goes to show how I have adapted, being sooooo relieved the price is less than $4. Dull drive until I got above Auburn where I began to see trees and temperatures dropping as I climbed to Donner Pass and Truckee. (more…)

Penguincation Part 3

Summer Solstice at Esperanza Station, Antarctic

Summer Solstice and the southernmost point of our trip at 63˚23’ S & 57˚00’ W. It’s a day of thick fog as we crawl through seas amid icebergs to our first landing at Brown Bluff on the Antarctic Continent. Like ghost ships, bergs and bits are obscured by fog. Our second landing is at Argentina’s Esperanza Station, its buildings bright orange against a backdrop of ragged mountains and glaciers, and year-round home to several families. Today it is 470, sunny and clear. However, strong guide wires anchoring the buildings against high winds, the deep snow on the ground, and the presence of penguins remind me this is a harsh and isolated life for its inhabitants. (more…)

Penguincation Part 2

John James at Sir Shackleton's grave.

Grytviken is the capital of South Georgia. In its Whalers’ Cemetery is Sir Ernest Shackleton, who died here in 1922 and was buried on a hill facing South, the direction that dominated his entire adult life. We gather for a champagne toast to this explorer extraordinaire. Having read several books on Shackleton, and his unfortunate rival Robert Falcon Scott, I am in awe of their achievements. Joining in our toast is fellow-shipmate Mr. John James, son of Physicist Reginald James, one of Shackleton’s men on the ill-fated Endurance expedition of 1914-1916. In the days ahead, we will hear a lecture by Mr. James about his father’s experience and visit the scene of his survival. (more…)