29 March 2026 One needs time in a country to truly begin to appreciate its history, culture, diversity and idiosyncrasies or peccadillos. I did not have the time or exposure during my brief visits to Tunis in 1982 and 2010. But, 10 days touring Tunisia, I can feel a true Read more
28 March 2026
We begin our morning maneuvering Sfax to its historic Medina. Sfax is not pretty in any obvious way. It feels more like a working, industrial city. It’s Tunisia’s second-largest city and its main commercial port, so the rhythm becomes industrial and purposeful rather than historic and touristic.
However, Sfax isn’t without character. In the old city, its medina quarter represents one of the best preserved in Tunisia, walled and refreshingly free of souvenir gloss and pressure to buy a rug or copper pot.
Built by Aghlabid prince Abu Abbass Muhammad between 849 and 851, it shows its age but continues to serve the community. The Medina acts as home to about 115,000 residents and dominated by the Great Mosque.
As we walk through the Medina, I’m told, to “soak in the vibrant atmosphere and rich history of this coastal town.” Having traveled a lot and visited dozens of medinas, I ask “sure, so what’s different?” At times like this, I sort of feel the guides are struggling to fill the day.
I hear the usual “welcome,” “where you from,” “my friend” but it’s friendly and less aggressive than in medinas I’ve been like Marrakech or Tunis. Venders quickly switch back to chatting with neighbors or scrolling their iPhones.
It feels more like merchants trying to make a living, not staging a performance. The displays of fish, vegetables, household wares, crafts and meats arranged artfully, creating lots of photo ops. Merchants smile and allow our guide to explain their wares.
We continue our drive North. Today’s travel consists of about 150 miles with a couple interesting stops along the way. Though we drive close to the sea, the land remans flat and arid. Massive olive groves interspersed with date palms and almond orchards, plus a plethora of cactus, line the highway. Less trash lines the roads.
More farms and green fields begin to appear. Most of these farms utilize modern irrigation including drip systems, wadi dams and underground aquifers. Modern orchard management in these regions use a “sustained deficit irrigation,” meaning only enough water is provided to guarantee survival and quality. Cell towers keep us connected throughout our journey.
(more…)27 March 2026
Touring: not for the weak or the slow. It rewards those who can function on little sleep, adapt to early wakeup schedules, and climb vans and jeeps with the agility of a mountain goat. Usually, in-room coffee saves my morning. Bathrooms require timing, yet I constantly remain at the mercy of other women’s weak bladders.
Meals are aspirational and after a few days of planned 3-meals a day, entirely too long and too much food. Just a quick stop proves never quick. If you require slow mornings, naps, or emotional support when plans change, touring invariably separates you from those expectations by day two.
I hardly imagine I am currently on the Mediterranean Coast. The wind blows cold and strong, just the type of gale that blew Odysseus off course for years. We crossed the Djera-Zarzis Roman Causeway above the Boughrara Gulf on arrival to the small, resort island of Djerba. There appears much to see before we exit the island, this time by ferry, for other destinations.
(more…)26 March 2026
Tunisia’s Tataouine Governorate feels like stepping beyond Earth’s familiar into a landscape sculpted by wind, silence, and time. The horizon stretches endlessly, carved into rippling desert plains, honey-colored ksour rising like ancient fortresses, and villages seemingly grown from the rock itself.
(more…)24 March 2026
Google Maps and my eyes tell me – there are no roads where we go. In fact, our destination, a desert camp in Tembaine, appears not on a map. But dessert car wrecks appears. Sounds like a fun direction of travel.
Although Tozeur roads are generally paved near towns, once we venture into the salt flats and true Sahara, our bus will park and we will travel in 4×4 drive Land-rovers.
23 March 2026
Climbing aboard a 4-wheel Landrover hints at what our day may be like. While we travel mostly on paved roads thru low hills, sand cliffs and dunes, we seem destined for a distant time and place: “A long time ago in a galaxy far, far away….” In reality, our destination – Tatooine.
In 1976, this desert region of Tunisia took on an entirely new look, not geologically but spiritually. Tatooine was born. Its life-forms became cinematographers, gaffers, foley artists, directors and Luke Skywalker.
(more…)22 March 2026
After breakfast, we board our bus for the 300-mile drive to Tozeur, Tunisia. There are 12 of us on a 29-seat bus so very comfortable. Thankfully, we enjoy a few interesting stops along the long route.
The drive also allows me to observe the Tunisian driver. It appears they took their lessons from the same driving school as the Egyptians. However, it seems drivers here were better students.
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