20 Sept 2024
The Pantanal alarm clocks awake everyone around 5:30 am. The raucous and slightly crazy Curicaca scurries about the grounds and trees screaming and screeching to start a new day.
Some consider their sounds as singing, most think they are just screaming out its name over and over. They will not be ignored!
Nor can I miss the cute little Capuchin Monkeys as they scurry along the grounds in search of papayas. They are not in need of the tall ladder placed strategically below a tree.
Scampering up the tree, the Capuchin pulls a papaya free, tosses it to the ground, then retrieves it to lug it away for his breakfast. It is a heavy load for the little guy but he is determined.
Also in the papaya trees and flying about are the beautiful Taco Toucans. This bird stands out as one of the most iconic and visually attractive birds because of its large, yellow and black bill that can reach lengths of up to 8 inches. This beak helps to regulate the bird’s body temperature and to reach papayas on distant branches. Contrary to its substantial size, the bill is surprisingly lightweight due to its hollow structure. However, while primarily fruit-eaters, they also eat insects, small mammals and lizards, and raid bird nests for eggs and tiny chicks. Aawha!
The first day of Fall
After breakfast, always with lots of wonderful fresh fruit, Roger, my excellent guide, and I head to the pier to meet Sapo (nickname Frog) for a full day on the waters of the rivers Cuiabá, São Lourenço, Piquiri, Três Irmãos (3 Brothers), and numerous small tributaries. It is the dry season and rivers are drying up fast.
Safe boating and exploration require expert navigational skills of a pilot like Sapo. Some channels, much to the relief to its scaley, feathered and furry inhabitants, are too narrow and shallow for even our shallow-drafted boats. In the wide Cuiabá, Sapo guns the engine and charges down the river at an excelerating 32-35 mph. The cooling wind is welcome.
Due to a wind out of the northeast, skies are clearer today with less smoke. Temperatures are predicted to reach about 105° while humidity will be in the 21% range during the heat of the afternoon. With less smoke, one iscomfortable under the awning of the boat. Still, sunscreen is important in fighting the sun’s rays reflected off the water.
A full day boat ride in search of jaguars
Initially, I wondered what one would do for 9 to 12 hours on the river. Yesterday, I watched as jaguars slept. The most excitement I saw was a big cat briefly picking up her head to stare out at the river then, bored, go back to sleep. Birds and caimans quickly become common. We won’t come back to the lodge as we have a packed lunch, plenty of water, and can use the entire jungle for a toilet. This should prove an interesting day.
Flocks of bird life
The beauty of Porto Jofre is the observation of wildlife up close and personal. Numerous toucans, hawks, Jubiru stork, herons, Bare-faced Curassow, Ibis, Great Potoo who sit like gray stumps on a tree, and colorful Rufous-tailed jacamar are spotted. Innumerable feathered friends of all shapes, bills, sizes and colors from vultures to darling and daring Wattled Jacana or “Jesus” birds (because they seem to walk on water) entertain.
It is impossible to pick a favorite. The Curicaca for his raucous personality, the Jacamar because he is so brazen I can almost touch him? Or the Southern Screamer so aptly named as it announces the proximity of a jaguar. But in fact, many birds tend to “scream” in the Pantanal. Parrots and parakeets are loud and jabber constantly and can probably out-talk a Curicaca any day.
Toothy Caimans
Caimans are ubiquitous. They all look alike. Some are small, some a bit larger, some larger still. Seems a caiman is a caiman. Roger, explains there are probably 3 million caiman in the Pantanal. Seen one seen all 3 million?
Most Caimans grow, if not eaten first, to between 3 and 6 feet. They line the banks with mouths open with what appears to be toothy grin. Happy to see me? Actually, they open wide their jaws as a means to keep cool by shading their upper body.
Caimans line the shores and their beady eyes appear poking above the river’s surface. They don’t tend to move unless the boat gets near or a jaguar approaches. The caiman’s eyesight is very poor but can sense the sound of approaching death. And jaguars love Caiman buffets!
Other wild life
I spot two huge water buffalo – one big and spunky, the other dead in the water. Brazilians do not prefer the taste of buffalo meat. I am told the ranchers keep them around as they protect cattle from jaguars.
Water buffalo are huge, aggressive and not easy prey for big cats. Most of the buffalos I see along the river are alert, wary and free ranging.
Occasional capybara are sitting along the banks or in the river. These giant rodents are the second favorite jaguar buffet after caiman. Their bark resounds for quite a distance when warning others of the presence of the apex hunter in their neighborhood. Nothing much else bothers them.
A Howler Monkey is spotted and close enough to see identifying features. A deer walks thru the vegetation looking small and vulnerable.
We again stop at the otter den. The Giant Otter family is not at home and the pups are laying low today. They might have gotten in a little trouble yesterday for playing outside without supervision.
But let’s face it – it’s the jaguars we seek
Sapo does some serious cruising of the rivers in search of the illusive Jaguar. It is a big spotted cat which we seek. Native to the Americas, they are best found in the Pantanal. Tropical forests and prolific caiman-infested rivers are their ideal habitat.
Everyone seems to rate their day by their number of jaguar sightings. All other inhabitants of the rivers take a backseat to the world’s third biggest cat. There is so much more in this fascinating ecosystem, but let’s face it: not everyday one can observe the natural behavior of a wild animal in its own habitat – even it if is just a jaguar snoring logs under a tree.
Two sightings
A large female is resting on her back among tree roots under the bank of the riverside. With legs in the air, she is totally chilling out.
She notices our attention and manages to turn around, curious as to the disturbance. The Jaguar Field Guide identifies this cat as Pixana, seen every year since 2017.
Field guide can be downloaded for $5.
Her home range is on the Cuiabá River. Pixana wasn’t impressed; she rolled over and went back to sleep.
The Jaguar Field Guide has identified up to 377 jaguars in this region. Some have died or moved inland where they may not be seen for years. The males are especially elusive. If a jaguar is spotted along the river, most often it is a female.
About 80 jaguars currently have carved out their terrain here and on any day one can spot several sleeping, hunting or sparring along the river banks. Got caiman – jaguars will come.
A second female is spotted atop the banks of the river attentively watching the hunting activity of others in what appears to be her territory of the Rio Canabu. This female may be Jaju. She is the 2016 cub of Patricia and the littermate of Madrosa.
Jaju looks at us with her golden eyes but what she is truly laser-focused on are the hunting attempts by her son Manath and his cousin, Rio.
Meeting the Cousins
Manath is the 2022 cub of Jaju. The Guide describes him as “a cousin of Rio with whom he has a strong coalition.” Rio, who is smaller and older, is the cub of Medrosa born in 2021. Since at least August 2023, these two male jaguars are breaking all typical patterns for their species, and have joined to create an extremely interesting partnership and hunting team.
Cousins Manath and Rio were seen in a confrontation with their grandmother Patricia in 2022. I think this was the beginning of their beautiful relationship. Here’s my story and I’m sticking to it:
Rio and Manath, born about a year apart, are both grandsons of Patricia. Tho born in different sections of the hood, they ran into each other as young juveniles and their Grandma Patricia got on their case about something, maybe accusing Rio of being too small or teasing Manath about not being tough enough.
A confrontation ensued resulting with the cousins realizing they had something in common – they both thought Grandma a cranky, bossy bitch. Rio the smaller and older decided to team up with big Manath. Being older, Rio took the lead. For over a year now, the cousins have lived and hunted together forming a unique and collaborative partnership.
A morning with the Cousins
Far north on the Rio Canabu near Bananal we meet Rio. He sits on the west side of the river scanning the territory. Walking along the river’s edge, he hunts for his favorite food, a Caiman. Shortly, Rio pauses and begins a series of grunting, growling vocalizations – his call for his cousin, Manath. Rio beckons, Manath comes.
It seems slim pickings for Caiman, so after a brief discussion, Rio leads the way, swimming across the river to climb out on the sandy bar of a small peninsula between rivers. For over a mile, the cousins hunt alongside the river. Because he is the better hunter, Rio leads. Alternately, stalking the shore and swimming along its banks, the cousins look for Caiman, especially amid the groups of floating water Hyacinths.
The cousins are not expert hunters as yet, making a little too much noise. Caiman may have poor eyesight, but their other senses are good. Rio experiences several unsuccessful pounces and grabs. Surely out of an estimated 3 million Caiman, there has to be one stupid one around.
Rio enters a large group of hyacinths and we witness a sudden splashing and thrashing of water. It is clear that he has caught his Caiman. Manath is the backup muscle and assists Rio in hauling out their catch.
Coalition of Brains and Brawn
The Caiman is about 6′ and the cousins tug and drag him from the water and up the bank. This is where Manath’s superior strength is important. Manath has the Caiman by the throat and is crushing its neck. Rio sometimes hinders rather than helps as he grabs the tail. Regardless, the Caiman is finished and will provide a couple days’ food for the cousins.
After almost three hours, the cousins share their hard-earned lunch. We float our boat to some shade under a nearby tree and do the same.
Successful hunt. Time to eat and relax during the heat of the day. Manath rests in the grasses and shade enjoying a full tummy. Mama Jaju looks on from across the river with alert amusement.
2,999,999 Caimans left in her rivers.
Caused by smoke-filled air.
