5 April 2025
There always seems to be a tour day of sit-and-ride. This is it.
I generally love these days. With professional drivers, I enjoy sitting back and watching the scenery roll past my window. I make a point to never sit in front, my rationale being an aversion to crashing through a windshield. We drive south for some 250 miles.
Today, I couldn’t be happier about it.
It had to be something I ate. Whatever, I and the porcelain throne became acquainted throughout the night. I feel like a camel being driven hard across the desert.
I do pop my head up on occasion in order to see my surroundings. Thankfully, the entire day is spent in travel.
Traversing the Atlas Mountains
The drive across the Middle Atlas Mountains is a journey through ever-changing landscapes. Winding roads take me past rolling hills, rocky plateaus, and slopes of dense forests of towering cedar trees.
The air is crisp and fresh, and I manage to lift my head for a moment to watch some Barbary macaques approach the bus at a rest stop.
As the day unfolds, the scenery shifts dramatically. In the afternoon, we arrive at the Ziz Valley, where high cliffs and rugged gorges carve through the earth, revealing layers of red and ochre rock.
A winding river snakes through the valley, nourishing date palms which line the valley floor, a striking contrast to the rugged cliffs above. Nature creates a breathtaking view that feels like stepping into another world.
The day fills with Mother Nature’s surprises. We skirt Station de ski Habri, one of Morocco’s ski resorts.
The highest elevation sits just short of 7000 feet. Hard to imagine snow here. But, the road advertisements are interesting.
Oases of the Desert
Also, Mother Nature teaches new vocabulary. I know an oasis when I see one. The several I saw became oases. It sounds awkward saying oasises. The English language always tests us.
We continue past palm fringed towns and old, crumbling mud fortresses. These towns are a blend of lush oases, ancient architecture, and a vibrant local culture. Nestled in valleys and along riverbanks, they stand as green havens against the surrounding desert landscapes. Towering date palms sway gently in the breeze, shading traditional mud-brick kasbahs and winding alleys.
Life moves at a slower pace here, with markets filled with the scent of spices and fresh dates, and locals sipping mint tea in shaded courtyards. The contrast between the golden desert dunes and the deep green of the palm groves is stunning. Therefore, a town like Erfoud offers a glimpse into Morocco’s oasis life, where agriculture, tradition, and natural beauty blend seamlessly.
Erfoud
Sitting at the edge of the Sahara Desert lies the small town of Erfoud. We are just a few miles north of the Merzouga Dunes and the Algerian border. Here, it appears the camel and donkey represent the norm. No gas, motor oil, tires, or windshield wipers needed.
Erfoud is often considered the gateway to the Sahara. Surrounded by vast arid landscapes, it has a distinct desert charm, with its mud-brick buildings, bustling souks, and palm groves offering a contrast to the golden, drifting dunes beyond.
Known for its fossils and date palms, Erfoud is famous for its local workshops that polish ancient marine fossils found in the region, turning them into beautiful decorative pieces and furniture.
And with every fossil, and there are many, there exists a million dates, at least 20 varies of the tasty treats. We’re told all dates taste the same.
Every autumn, Erfoud hosts the Date Festival, a celebration of the region’s prized date harvest, complete with music, dancing, and local delicacies. Not sure which is more interesting but think I will go with the bones.
Prehistoric Marine Fossils
The area around Erfoud is rich in petrified marine fossils, dating back over 350 million years to when the region was covered by a prehistoric ocean. For example, some of the most common fossils found include trilobites, extinct marine arthropods with segmented bodies. In addition, diggers find ammonites, a spiral-shaped mollusk related to modern squids. Frequently, Orthoceras, long, straight-shelled cephalopods, are also found embedded in marble slabs.
Additionally, crinoids, fossilized sea lilies, and remnants of ancient reef systems such as corals and brachiopods are present.
Erfoud is home to many fossil workshops which extract, polish, and craft these specimens into decorative pieces ranging from jewelry to furniture.
Before we depart Erfoud, we visit one of these workshops for a demonstration of this process. The result, from tables to sinks, jewelry to keepsake boxes and all sorts of bric-a-brac, the polished products are beautiful. And heavy! While given the sales pitch, even here, it is easy to admire but not buy.
Lodging
Erfoud exhibits an authentic Moroccan character, with welcoming locals, traditional kasbahs, and stunning desert sunsets. It’s a place where modern conveniences meet the timelessness of the Sahara. The sands don’t change but just drift along.
We lodge at the very comfortable Erfoud Palace Hotel. Amenities abound. Well, all except alcohol which is not served in the hotel. No problem. I’m afraid all this atmosphere and charm is wasted on me as I head to bed.
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